O.K., I know the basic stuff like: turn screw until 0 lash, then turn another 1/2 turn. My ? is: What is 0 lash? Is it when the lifter is colapsed all the way? or is it just until there is tension on the valve tip? I turn the adjustment screw until I could not lift the tip of the rocker anymore. Then gave it another 1/2 turn. Is this right. The reason I am asking is the lash kept changing each time through.

 

You can find zero lash by twisting the pushrod while tightening the adjuster and spinning the pushrod at the same time. Make sure you are pulling the wrench in a direction that doesn't rock the rocker back into the pushrod. You will feel the pushrod start to push on the lifter. This is zero lash. If you were to bottom out the lifter and go another 1/2 turn your valves would never close. Make aure of course that your lifter is riding the base circle of the cam when checking or you will be all messed up.

 

When you guys do your valve adjustment, do you do it with the engine hot and running or with it cold and off. I am running a hyd. cam with the adjustables and when we built the engine we followed the procedure from "Ford Performance" by Pat Gahnahl. Then later on I did them with the engine running and am thinking of going back to the first method because with it running is a pain and not like adjusting "for example- small block chevy". I know that once you have them set you shouldn't need to mess with them but the first time I was worried that some of them were a little tight so I did it with it running. Or does it really matter which way you do it? I know that with it running it is hard on your socket or wrench and the adjusting nut.

 

It should be done cold but with the amount of room for error with hydraulic lifters it really doesn't matter. I would just as soon not burn myself. I always do it cold. I would only do it running if I had a problem lifter. I thought I was having a lifter tap but it ended up being excessive clearance between the rocker and the stand. I have the solid spacers instead of the shaft springs.

 

See that is just it... I sometimes get a slight tick when I am just cruising at like 20 mph down main street and once I put it under a little load it goes away. I think I may go back and adjust everything and see it that cures it. Maybe that just the way my engine is, hope not though. I used the spacer springs and they were used, (I just cleaned them up. Maybe I need new springs?? How much did it cost to get the solid spacers made?
Thanks

 

I bought them from DSC. I can't remember the price but it was pretty cheap. They are listed on the site.

 

Thanks, I think I have it now.

 

now i have a question, with a cam like the 901 if i run my stock non-adjstable rockers then all i need to do is torqe the rocker arm down to specs right? i dont need to mess with all that lifter perload and valve adjustement stuff i hope.

 

I don't know anything about the 901/

 

FE...
There is no wat to adjust preload with non-adjustable rockers unless you use adjustable pushrods...if the cam specs dont recommend adjustable rockers then you should be safe with the stock valve train!!

But that can be IFY at times...because anything as we heard in the forum here is subject to breakage depending on how hard ya beat it!! Even with all the right parts S**T happens!!- Russ

 

PS..

I wouldnt run adjustable pushrods...but there a good way to find proper pushrod length... for porper preload!! Or as I have in the past..used a Dail indicator..

Russ