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Camshaft Sensor/Synchronizer Replacement

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  #211  
Old 05-31-2012, 03:43 PM
Mike Rubin Mike Rubin is offline
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Cam sensor positioning tool for 1998 ford f150 4.2

Its on sale now for 35.00. Click this link: Ford / Mercury Cam Sensor Syncro Positioning Tool: 1996 - 2002 3.8L, 4.2L, & 5.0L V6
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  #212  
Old 11-05-2012, 11:18 PM
ronaldc ronaldc is offline
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does anybody know the difference between the sensor and the cam synchronizer? I'm a little confused. I have the squeak and which one has to be fixed and how much does it cost..........Thanks!
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  #213  
Old 11-25-2012, 12:58 PM
yblilshag yblilshag is offline
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Is the sensor in the same place on the 5.4L triton
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  #214  
Old 11-25-2012, 04:28 PM
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its almost like putting a distributor in. the tool prevents it from moving during installation. and i can't tell ya where the senser is on 5.4l. probably in the same place as the 4.6 v8..... on mine its in back of the lifter valley. which is a single in block cam engine 4.0 v6. and where the distributor would be. the senser for my 4.0 was about 160$ and tool was about 40$
i think the 4.6 and 5.4 are over head cam engines. and i would say somewhere in the front of the engine. on the gear train.
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  #215  
Old 05-02-2013, 03:15 PM
Frank Tanner Frank Tanner is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockledge View Post
Hi clodmore, welcome to FTE!

The Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor detects the position of the camshaft in order to identifiy when piston No. 1 is on its compression stroke. The CMP sensor is used for ignition timing in the Ford DIS igntion system, but not in the EDIS igntion system. Both DIS/EDIS use the CMP signal for synchronizing the firing of sequential fuel injectors.

On the 3.0L vulcan engine, the CMP signal is generated by a single Hall-Effect magnetic switch, activated by a single "vane" spinning around by virture of a synchronized shaft which is driven by the camshaft.

The CMP sensor & synchronizer/shaft are located behind the intake manifold (i.e., back near the firewall on a Ranger) on the top of the cylinder block. If you just need to replace the sensor, it is a simple job of unplugging the electrical connector and removing the screws holding the sensor in place. Here is a sketch of the sensor to give you an idea what to look for:
Great info! Where it is - what it is - what it looks like - and how to replace. Thanks much.
Frank T.
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  #216  
Old 05-03-2013, 06:39 PM
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or leave it alone it will run without it. and they are fun to change. on the 4.0l 245ci you have to tear half the engine apart. trust me i did mine. otc makes a tool that holds it in place. during the install. its almost like putting a distrubutor in. just run your #1 up to TDC and install.
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  #217  
Old 08-08-2013, 09:51 AM
cottager cottager is offline
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So after reading this thread there are two questions I have to ask. One- I have 96 Explorer 4L and at Rockauto it lists a 123mm and a 132mm size. I would like to know if anyone knows which size I need for the sync unit without removal. It's my ride for now. Two- Do I or don't I have to remove the intake manifold to get at this. Thanks for the help.
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  #218  
Old 08-08-2013, 12:47 PM
elitim22 elitim22 is offline
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how to fix p0340 cam sesnor

I have a code p0340 (cam sensor) but am not have any bad symptoms my truck runs fine like regular no loss of power and it does not idle rough what could it be causing the p0304 to cut on and where is the the cam sensor at on my check am not a mechanic but i just want to visual check it to see if a wire became disconnected also about a week b4 the light came on. I had to put on a used 2000 lincoln Navigator with the 5.4 alternator on my truck and my truck is a 1998 ford expedition with the 4.6 engine would this have anything to do with the p0340 code on my truck. The alternator works fine when my neighbor brought it was brand new but he stop driving it and let it sit soon after buying it for a couple years when i need the alternator he sold me his so do you have any ideals or ways i could fix this code on my truck
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  #219  
Old 03-29-2014, 09:16 PM
webtelly webtelly is offline
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Camshaft Syncro location

Hi All, I was going to replace the camshaft syncro in my 1997 Ford Ranger. I heard a chirping sound and realized it was not a belt, so I googled "chirping sound ford ranger" and came up with everything do it yourself about replacing the part. Ran down to O'Reilly's, bought the part, and was ready to go! Only problem is, I cannot find one on my 3.0 V6 engine. I know it is supposed to be at the rear of the engine, but mine is not there. I bought the truck used, and the mechanic said they had rebuilt the engine; so maybe they dropped one in without the original config? I don't know. I am fairly mechanically inclined, have worked on cars all my life, so I like to think that I can figure this simple part out before my oil pump seizes up and my little point a to b baby goes kabloom. Can anyone come up with odd places or ideas on where my camshaft syncro might be or gone? Thanks!
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  #220  
Old 04-05-2015, 10:30 PM
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I'm going to bring this thread back from the dead again. Just put a rebuilt 3.0L engine in a '98 Ranger. I didn't know about the C.M.P. and the special positioning. The engine runs but records EGR and Too Lean codes. Having the fuel injector timing off makes sense. so I am going to get this corrected ASAP. Only question that I have is the correct position of the little metal 'window' when Cyl #1 is @ TDC compression?
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  #221  
Old 12-17-2015, 10:46 PM
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Mainly all it needs to do is clear the manifold. I just stabbed mine today on my 99 Ranger that I'm putting a long block in, and the window ended up centered over the holddown bolt hole. My Chiltons manual says 38 degrees from engine centerline and that's where I ended up. It was also located centered on the hold down hole when I tore it down. Go to the parts house and buy the appropriate too. All my parts house had was a set of 3 different styles, and I only needed one of them but the set of 3 was only $25. If I am not mistaken, (and someone correct me if I am wrong!) all the CMP is detecting is TDC#1 so in reality the synchronizer could be installed at any clock position as long as the "tit" is centered in the window. That is basically what the tool does, no more no less. I think the "degrees from centerline" thing is just to keep it from interfering with other components.
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  #222  
Old 02-18-2016, 03:21 PM
zSparkyy zSparkyy is offline
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Hi all, when I bought my truck (2003 Ford Ranger) the previous owner said that I would need to replace the camshaft sensor to get rid of the idling sitting at stop signs and red lights and to get rid of the long starts. The other day I bought a aftermarket cam shaft sensor and installed it. It started in under 2 seconds and I thought everything was good and decided to drive it around the block. If I went past 2000 RPMs the truck would begin to jolt, tried shifting to 2nd and the same thing happened. I'm not a mechanic by any means and I thought it would be an easy fix. I disconnected the wire to the sensor and it runs the same as before. Any thoughts? Thanks.
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  #223  
Old 07-07-2016, 09:12 PM
spooktn spooktn is offline
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From what I have found the synchronizer ,,,,,,, factory ones did not oil well and would shell out after 80000 miles or so,,,,,,, you can get a auto zone replacement with sensor and tool ( well i did in Dyersburg TN) but you are better off to spend a few more bucks and get a Motorcraft one ( the auto zone one is what I could afford but later learned they dont hold up well ),,,, hope this helps
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