97 f-250 PSD project...
#1
97 f-250 PSD project...
Hello all, just want to thank everyone for their postings on this site, I've been reading nonstop. I just registered for this site and plan on being addicted to it soon.
Anyways, I have a 1997 F-250 PSD extended cab, long box, 4x4. Everything is pretty much stock except for the 4" straight pipe on the exhaust. Reading through these posts I've read about many mods that I would love to do on my truck, just don't have the experience on installing or where to start from. This is where I hope i can get some input from all of you on this site, I want to learn how to go about making this machine a great one. Any tips/suggestions would be greatly appreciated, and I hope to post new photos and info as I progress on this project.
Thanks again and am looking forward to talking with all of you.
Anyways, I have a 1997 F-250 PSD extended cab, long box, 4x4. Everything is pretty much stock except for the 4" straight pipe on the exhaust. Reading through these posts I've read about many mods that I would love to do on my truck, just don't have the experience on installing or where to start from. This is where I hope i can get some input from all of you on this site, I want to learn how to go about making this machine a great one. Any tips/suggestions would be greatly appreciated, and I hope to post new photos and info as I progress on this project.
Thanks again and am looking forward to talking with all of you.
#2
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#6
Try ford-trucks.com. They have several articles published on how to do mods.
On your truck, disconnect the downpipe from the turbo and cat and remove. There is a body seam that runs down the firewall near the pipe that you will have to flatten out to get clearance. The new pipe for these trucks are usually two piece pipes. install the turbo pipe then the pipe at the cat, leave them loose and adjust and move them until you get clearance all the way around the pipe then tighten everything down. If you can, get one with a bung already welded in for the pyrometer probe or weld one yourself with the pipe off, it'll make things easier later when you instal your gauges if you're going to instal the pyro post-turbo.
On your truck, disconnect the downpipe from the turbo and cat and remove. There is a body seam that runs down the firewall near the pipe that you will have to flatten out to get clearance. The new pipe for these trucks are usually two piece pipes. install the turbo pipe then the pipe at the cat, leave them loose and adjust and move them until you get clearance all the way around the pipe then tighten everything down. If you can, get one with a bung already welded in for the pyrometer probe or weld one yourself with the pipe off, it'll make things easier later when you instal your gauges if you're going to instal the pyro post-turbo.
#7
To remove the down pipe (dp);
1. Remove the clamp at the Exhaust Back Pressure Valve (EBPV).
2. Cut band clamps and remove heat shielding from around dp. Make a note of where that firewall pinch seam is closest to the dp.
3. Remove bolts at cat flange, and separate pipes.
4. Push the dp up as far as it will go and prop securely in place.(a jack works nice)
5. Use a sawsall with a long very good quality metal cutting blade, (I like Lennox or Starrett) to cut the top of the dp off as far down as you can get in there. You want to cut off the entire 90* bend off. The dp is heavy gage stainless steel, it will ruin any cheap blades in no time.
6. After the "head" is cut off it will slip out the bottom. 2wd models put the truck up on jack stands for extra clearance with the ground.
7. before installing the new dp flatten down the pinch seam on the firewall. I used a long pipe from the bottom and pried against it and the head, not a lot of pressure needed.
8. Install top section of dp from the top, and put flange clamp back on snugly.
9. Install bottom section from bottom, and into the top portion of the dp before attaching to the cat, or exhaust pipe. Use wide band clamp to secure two sections of dp together, not a "muffler clamp/u-bolt clamp".
As far as the pyro probe bung is concerned it would be safest and easiest to do it out of the truck. But post turbo pyro probe locations are not the most accurate. Pre turbo pyrometer probe location is preferred. And as I said before the air cleaner would be the most important mod to do 1st. Yes the stock air box sucks that bad, no matter whose filter is in there. The Tymar should take no longer then 1/2 hour to do. The dp might take 1/2-3/4 of a day if you have problems cutting it, and are working outside like I was. Good luck, it sounds worse then it is to do.
1. Remove the clamp at the Exhaust Back Pressure Valve (EBPV).
2. Cut band clamps and remove heat shielding from around dp. Make a note of where that firewall pinch seam is closest to the dp.
3. Remove bolts at cat flange, and separate pipes.
4. Push the dp up as far as it will go and prop securely in place.(a jack works nice)
5. Use a sawsall with a long very good quality metal cutting blade, (I like Lennox or Starrett) to cut the top of the dp off as far down as you can get in there. You want to cut off the entire 90* bend off. The dp is heavy gage stainless steel, it will ruin any cheap blades in no time.
6. After the "head" is cut off it will slip out the bottom. 2wd models put the truck up on jack stands for extra clearance with the ground.
7. before installing the new dp flatten down the pinch seam on the firewall. I used a long pipe from the bottom and pried against it and the head, not a lot of pressure needed.
8. Install top section of dp from the top, and put flange clamp back on snugly.
9. Install bottom section from bottom, and into the top portion of the dp before attaching to the cat, or exhaust pipe. Use wide band clamp to secure two sections of dp together, not a "muffler clamp/u-bolt clamp".
As far as the pyro probe bung is concerned it would be safest and easiest to do it out of the truck. But post turbo pyro probe locations are not the most accurate. Pre turbo pyrometer probe location is preferred. And as I said before the air cleaner would be the most important mod to do 1st. Yes the stock air box sucks that bad, no matter whose filter is in there. The Tymar should take no longer then 1/2 hour to do. The dp might take 1/2-3/4 of a day if you have problems cutting it, and are working outside like I was. Good luck, it sounds worse then it is to do.