tankhokie,

The did not specifically say that it was not putting out enough pressure, but I assumed that's all it could be. They replaced a couple other things like the idle air control egr sensor and fuel filter, but said it would not run right until they replaced the pump. I can get the car up to 80mph as long as it's not up a hill, so I don't know if I should trust them at a cost of $730 for the pump.

 

Haroldw1. Try this website www.fordpartscheap.com. They have a fuel pump for less than $200.00 #@$##@! going to the dealer. I have ordered parts from them before rest assured they are quality parts.

 

son-of-a-!@%$#

I just wrote a reply that was 4-5 paragraphs long and it got lost in the posting process !!


Ok, here is my bottom line:

If you buy the pump, dealer may not install or warranty replacement.

Do it yourself and with socket set, extensions, fuel line disconnect tools, jack, jack stands, and an almost EMPTY tank of gas.

haroldw1,
Seems like you have a more serious problem, I see no noticable lack of power in my X. I may be in the beginning stages of your more advanced fuel pump failure. My advice to you is get the dealer to give you IN WRITING a statement that if the fuel pump does not fix your problem, the labor and pump charges are the dealer's cost. If not, tell them you will take yor business elsewhere. It sounds like they are replacing every damn sensor and component they can on your X to try to track this weird problem down. A fuel pump is a costly "guess fix"

 

well I purchased a bottle of Valvoline Complete Fuel Injector cleaner I just gotta waist gas and ill put it in and fill the tank up...ill keep you updated

 

tankhokie,
I just re-read your original posting, I re-read all of your postings since. It looks like you've gotten nowhere.
I hate to beat a dead horse but... if I may I'd like to talk about the MAF. In your first posting you talked about a slow down shift @low RPM's. The MAF sensor sends a signal to the PCM, it uses this signal to calculate the required fuel injector pulse-width in order to provide the desired air/fuel ratio. Guess what else it does.. it also uses this signal to dertermine EPC , shift and torque converter clutch scheduling. The EPC controls line pressure to the clutches and bands in the trans.
Use this info at your discretion, look at the MAF as a potential problem. GOOD LUCK.

 

hello guys...
i'm having similar issues to yours. maybe we all can come up with some kind of answer???

i have '97 f250 5.4 triton. been running rough at crusing speed like you have been describing your trucks doing. idle seems fine. i have posted in the forums, and gotten some very helpful responses like you have, and tried them all... briefly: changed fuel filter, egr vac regulator, air filter, both upstream o2 sensors, all plugs, changed oil, checked visually for egr vac leaks. i have also tried checking sensors (maf, iat, and egr) with multimeter, but my skills in that dept. aren't very advanced, not sure if i am reading the results correctly.
i am still getting error code P0301- cylnd #1 misfire. (bye the way, jiffy lube can read error codes-they just asked me if i am a regular customer and didn't charge me... still gave the kid 10 bucks for the favor.)
i am suspecting the ignition coil packs as read in this post. first, i want to try to check them with multi/voltmeter myself. can anyone give me some direction as to how to correctly do this???

any help and advice will be greatly appreciated. thanks!

 

Mikemhp,

first, I would check the #1 wire and see if it is plugged in to the spark plug firmly and also the coil pack.

But to answer your coil pack question, to do this correctly and have all the specific values that your multimeter should read, you need a repair manual like chiltons or haynes. It goes into detail on how this is done, below is just a generalization of the procedure:

To check your coil packs, you simply unlpug all the wires (label their position for reassembly) and unplug the wire harness that plugs in the side of the coil pack.

Next, you test for resistance across the positive and negative terminals where the wiring harness unplugged.
Then, you check your resistance between the spark plug wire posts on the coil...primary resistance is one way and secondary is another between specific pairs of posts.
Again, this is all clearly laid out in the repair manual and takes about 5-10 minutes.

I am still testing out my Explorer...but will write back when I either am convinced the problem is gone or I swap out my MAF.
Babalu has been on me about trying the swap and I have been putting it off since the problem has reduced itself to barely noticable, but it hasn't been given a good long test drive.

hope this helps.

 

well its been a couple days now, I added the fuel injector cleaner on thursday, its now tuesday and I'm pretty much at empty...I have not felt it as much lately and did not feel it today, im thinking that it went away...from saturday on i maybe felt it 3 times...

 

The secondary coil pack winding has 2 terminals, each goes to a plug in each bank.....polarity does not matter......

 

well this morning i felt it once so I guess its not gone ???? Im going to get a trans flush with my next oil change, hopefully that will fix it.

 

yep, same here.

well I think I am finally ready to try swapping out the MAF like babalu suggested ages ago.

Let you know when I do, been busy and this problem is more of an annoyance than a real problem.

 

well on the way home today i felt nothing??? Im just going to let it be and get my tranny flushed at my next oil change...if it continues after that I'll bug ford about it

 

Ordered a new MAF over the weekend. Should be here on Tues, so I will be able to tell if it does the trick. Once I get it in, I will post my findings.

Just a question in the meantime...what would happen if I unplug my MAF and do a test drive? CEL on? I pulled the plug on it during an idle but got no CEL and no big change except a surge.

Just wondering...

 

UPDATE

got my new MAF in today, double checked all my connections and went on the test drive.

Try to guess if it still misses/chuggs

Well babalu, my problem isn't the MAF...almost happy because it was about 100 dollars for the thing anyway.

SO BACK TO TROUBLESHOOTING!!!!

I have pinpointed the problems range...it is at 40mph and rpm's at 1500 during an uphill climb with steady accel pedal pressure (not enough to change gears) also will happen around 60mph with low rpm but not as pronounced.

Could it be that the tranny isn't supposed to drop that low during a load situation?? Anyone else hit around 1500 at 40mph right before the upshift?

 

Tankhokie, I'm sorry your MAF didn't take care of the problem. I know my credibility has suffered severly but there is one more thing to try. Keep reading and hear me out... this one won't cost you a dime to try if you've got a VOM. There's another website that talked about reseting your TPS for proper voltage output. I'll post the link, read it over and let me know what you think.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...PS+adjustments