guys, griswold might have that right part no of his truck.

 

try this part # XL3Z 14A601 AA light 80%
or #1L3Z 14A601 AB light 75%

 

Geeze, you just can't get any good help, or accurate advice for that mannor anymore - did I ever blow it! I was so estatic that after 3 attempts on 3 different Ford trucks, I had finally found a part with at least the right name and connection socket as to actually have fit a connection socket in the truck's wiring harness that after installing the damn thing, I never bothered to actually turn it on and actually verify that it was working!

After reading the above post that poor spacegoast actually had taken my advice with no success, the rather dim daytime running lights in my brain suggested that I probably should check out my truck to see if in fact I had actually had a different outcome - he was certainly right, my truck's lights don't presently work either!

After explaining to my dealership the extreme error and subsequent horror of my errant ways, continuing with an explanation of the fact that since my initial posting, there were now goings on over 450+ dedicated Ford loyalists that either had or were probably running over to their collective dealerships to create a sudden spurt of demand for the holy grail of the correct daytime running light relay kit part, sans the proper "resistor kit" that more likely than not is required to actually complete the circuit making the lights actually work, they came back to me with Ford part number 1C3Z14A601AA "Resistor Kit for 2002 Superduty's & up" as the correct solution to my presentpicidillo.

I will be receiving this part sometime next week, Riceburner's information concerning the resistor kit's installation comports with what my dealership's shop manual suggests, so I am equally as confident now that this saga might conclude with a succesful end as I initially was in first posting that I had discovered the solution to my daytime running light option installation obcession.

Once this all works, rest assured that after posting the final update, I will of course, thereafter feel equally as compelled to find the very first unsuspecting oak tree or 50 foot utility pole that is by default unable to dodge my brilliantly lit up with daytime running lights blazing truck as I kamakazi self-destruct with the shame of my inadvertantly having previously led all who would have read my previous posts astray! So very, very sorry for my past idiot incompetance in all of these regards.

 

i told you mine works!!!!!

 

guys, i did not use the resistor because of some factors:
1. its to expensive.
2. if you use some after marker bulbs, eg: silverstar, super white, ect. the bulb will NOT last because by putting a inline resistor you will be only running a 7-8 volts to the head lights thats what make it dim 70%-80%, and aftermarket bulbs is not compatible with low voltaged.

just put a jumper wire and done with it. if you have extra time and money, buy the resistor.

 

Wanted to clear up my post i installed the daytime running lamp kit 2c3z-13b218-aa.
headlamps still work in normal settings & with the sensor auto headlamp already installed from the factory.
2004 f350 SD 6.0 built 9/03

 

Bought the relay on the off chance it would work on my 2001 EXC PSD. IT DID NOT!!!

But all was not lost. My buddy has a 2003 and he wanted the Mod anyway. Found the socket with the cute dummy plug. Plugged in the relay, jumpered the 2 wire plug behind the driver head lamp with a 20 gauge trailer wire. Works like a charm.

Oh well, he now has the DRL, but I'm in the process of installing the Hellwig anti sway bar, the Bilstein shocks and the ISS PRO gauges on a triple pillar block. Can't wait.

 

OK: The resistor arrived 1C3Z-14A601-AA 31.84 list price cheapest of the 3 units pluged in installed on raderator support behind LH raderator support.
I have daytime running lamps when ever the ignision is on wo hoo.

2004 Super Duty CC Lariet 6.0 4X4 dullie.
pw,pl,pm,a/c,Offroad tow & camper package.
Factory auto headlamp & running lamps
Daytime running lamps

 

spacegoast, congrats! you've graduated but you got ripped, resistor only cost $26 include tax.

 

That's not right. Let him enjoy his victory.

 

When I purchased my '04 Limited PSD, I wanted the dealer to install the DRL. They told me that the part listed in the Excursion Accessories brochure wouldn't work with the autolamp feature and that they tried it previously and ended up butchering up the harness only to repair it back to normal. This warning also came from griswold.
I purchased the parts listed in this thread. I installed them only to find out that it didn't work. After troubleshooting with a meter I looked at the part numbers on the parts. They were different from what I ordered and the correct number was even on the box but the parts inside were not. I removed the relay and replaced the jumpered connector. There was no voltage at the resistor, so I left it in. I went back to the forum and read the results from a DRL search. I found griswold's excerpt from the manual:

Daytime Running Lights (DRL) (If Equipped)

Turns the headlights on with a reduced output.

To Activate:

*the ignition must be in the on position

*the headlamp control is in the OFF or parking lamp and

*the parking brake must be disengaged.

THE PARKING BRAKE MUST BE DISENGAGED!
I am like a machine with my parking brake. When I park, I apply the parking brake while I'm still in drive. Then I put it in park and release the brake so that there is never any tension on my transmission. I reverse the order when I get in to drive. So when I read this I reinstalled the relay and BOOM! They work perfectly! I am very happy to have this feature. Being a commuter, I always have my lights on. Typically when someone pulls out in front of me, I check to see if I forgot to turn on my lights. Now I can be sure they see me, especially because my Limited is all black, no contrast. I will replace my bulbs at a much latter date and will never have touch the light switch except for the fog lamps. Sweet!
Not to confuse matters but here are the part numbers. I ordered the relay, 2C3Z-13B218-AA and 3C3T-13K027-AA was in the box. These numbers aren't even close. I ordered the resistor, 1C3Z-14A601-AA and 2C3T-14A601-AA was in the box. Thanks everyone for all of your input.

 

I had long ago forgotten this saga of getting the damn things to work, thanks for your kind comments and refreshing my memory of my previously incomplete guidance of problem creation rather than solving. I must say that I sure have enjoyed having the bulbs in my Ex lit, even if the bulb of my brain remains rather dim, we see a noticable difference in the distance clearance provided us by the other cars passing us, particularly on two-way non-divided highways.

 

Looks like there are as many setups as there are model years! Just checked My '05 250 SC - There is a 2 wire plug from the headlight harness down on the inner fender underneath the PS resevoir, looks like it was hot glued there. Wires are Black & either orange or orange/?. Can't see for sure. Also, the fuse/relay layout for the under hood fuse panel shows 1- 15 amp mini fuse, 2 half-ISO relays, and one full-ISO relay for the DRL.

In addition, there is one 3 wire connector on the passenger side by the battery on the inner fender that just deadends into a plastic cap. Any one have any idea what this is?

 

I condensed this thread and added my own comments to hopefully help you and/or others out. To install the OEM DRL relay kit, it simply plugs into the existing wiring harness up next to the other relay(s) located just behind the power steering fluid tank. In mine there was only one relay in place with another empty place to mount the new DRL relay. When you look in the right spot, you will see a round plug with a 2" loop of (red with a black stripe) wire that is acting as a loop to "jumper" the connector in lieu of it's having the relay box part installed. You have to remove that plug connector and insert the identical round plug from the relay box. My plug (socket) was also attached just below the relay bracket, so I removed it for ease of installation and attached it back after I plugged in and mounted the new relay. To install the resistor, you need to locate the wire that is terminated with a dummy plug that is behind the driver's side headlight, in my case it was attached by a white plastic anchor that goes into or next to the future mounting hole like the one that anchored the looped connector for the new relay. The colors on mine were yellow with a black stripe and orange with a green stripe. This can also be jumpered if you want or need 100% light. Fortunately, I had a factory speed nut (from the car junk box) that slips into the square hole so that the resistor can screw into it. Remove the dummy plug and connect it to the resistor assembly (resistor and heat sink) and screw it down. To test/operate, make sure the ignition must is in the on position, the headlamp control or parking lamps are OFF and the parking brake must be disengaged (my lesson learned). That is all I did.
My 15A fuse for the DRL is behind the panel under the steering wheel. If I open up my relay boxes located behind the power steering fluid reservoir, there are three relays, one being twice as big as the other two.

Part numbers for the relay are 2C3Z-13B218-AA, my actual number was 3C3T-13K027-AA. The part numbers for the resistor assembly is 1C3Z-14A601-AA, my actual number was 2C3T-14A601-AA. Riceburner listed other resistors, XL3Z-14A601-AA light 80% or #1L3Z-14A601-AB light 75%. I'm not sure what the reduction is for the first number (C3Z14A601AA), but it is reduced.
I hope this helps you out and wasn't just a rehash of what you just read. If this doesn't help, please post again and hopefully someone will come along with what you are looking for.

 

"This thread condensed with comments."

Nice job condensing, but, what YEAR? As I said above, my 2005 F250 calls out 3 relays in the underhood panel, as well as a 15 amp fuse.