Just replaced fuel pump on Saturday night in hopes of curing problem. (I only had 38 psi of fuel pressure, now I have 58)

Right now I just want to know an absolute way to clear out all the codes. That way I will know, if it is still throwing all the same codes or if they are just the same ones that are stuck in there.

How would I check to see if the pump is cutting out? It runs fine during the self test that I did to check pressure.

Let me know,
Mike B

 

how you checking your codes

 

I am using the paperclip method and counting the flashes. I use the proceedure in the haynes manual.

Mike B

 

just pull it out in the middle of the test its suppose to clear the codes that way as well

 

Ok I will try it that way.

 

worked for me i just used a piece of 16 gauge wire to jump mine

 

I am actually using a piece of 14 gauge wire with the ends flatened. I just call it the paperclip method. I am going out to the garage now to try to clear them.

Talk to you soon,
Mike B

 

The 4.9 computer monitors the power side (wire going to the pump) of the fuel pump relay to make sure the relay is working. That's what the 95 is for I believe. Since your truck runs, I don't know why this code would come up, maybe just a wiring fault.

 

Well round two.....

I cleared the codes as per 95BlackF150. It worked. That cleared them all out. I then performed the tests again. This is what I got.

Much fewer this time.

KOEO
23 TPS out of range during self test ( I just changed it out with a new one!!!)

Continuous
None recorded. I just got the 11 to let me know it was in continuous mode and then a 11 again and then nothing.

KOER
12 Cannot control RPM during high RPM test
13 Cannot control RPM during low RPM test
23 Same as above
25 knock sensor not detected during Dynamic Response Test
65 Key circuit low voltage

Could I have a bad brand new TPS? The resistance tests out in parameters, but I can't get a good reading on the voltage coming in. Any suggestions on how to get a good reading?

So that got rid of a bunch of wierd stuff.

Now what?????
Mike B

 

If the tps is good, I would check to see if any of the wires are shorting to ground. I'd also check continuity between the tps plug and the tps wire at the computer. Also look for the knock sensor to make sure it is connected and the wiring is good. Check the computer grounds as well, and the fusible links (if there are any) that feed the computer. For the rpm code, I'd try cleaning the IAC and making sure all of those wires are good as well. That code could be due to a bad ground too, if the IAC isn't getting proper voltage from the computer. This should get you started looking at some things anyway. Hope you get this tracked down.

 

what tranny you got

 

Auto with overdrive. Don;t know which one. Could it be an AOD? Or is it E40D? How would I find out?

Mike B

By the way, I did check the tranny fluid level. It actually appeared to be a bit overfull.

 

cause 65 is suppose to have somethin to do with the OD cancel switch according to chiltons if you have E4OD. The E4OD has a large pan with 20 bolts

 

The problem just doesn't seem tranny related. It shifts nice and smooth when I can get it going fast enough. I even tried to run without the OD to see if it would make a difference. It didn't.

Mike B

 

well its comming up with that code cause prob at some point your suppose to hit the OD cancel switch to make sure it works i duno though if its a E4OD i'm guessing