sounds like you got it figured out. I have seen that black and red vaccume line break going to the corree can before. Normaly at the bend down by the right exhaust manifold. The evr solonoid has a small filter in the bottom of it that cloggs up a lot and causes problems. If you got a bad ohm reading then it must be bad though. BTW it will almost never open and send vaccume to the egr just sitting there. Not all the conditions for it are met untill the engine is wound up at cruising speed, moving, act, and ect up to spec and the engine in closed loop. If you got colder than a 195 thermostat then it may never open.

 

Only reason I mentioned the evr vacuum is someone on another thread mentioned that the evr should show 1 hg at idle and 15hg or so with throttle on the evr outlest side given it has proper vaccum to inlet. I guess I could run full vacuum to the evr (known good vaccum) drive it and see if the light comes on. That would also indicate a bad solenoid. Better yet, I have vacum line I will run it from the outlet of the accumulator or coffee can looking thing directly to the evr inlet and see what happens. As in the light doesn't come on. What do you think? Thermostat is 195 brand new and functions correctly. The engine was cold when I tested the evr for vacuum out put with a full vaccum source connected, maybe I will test it when it is hot as well put full vacuum to it and see if it provides vacuum on the outlet side. What do you think? Appreciate your help

 

Well I put another vac line from the accumulator to the evr, ran it and it is finally showing no "check engine light". Fixed. I appreciate the help I received and for steering me in the right direction before I started buying sensors left and right. haha. Thanks again