i am totally frustrated with efi i bought it with headers installed and the check engine light is a frequent occurance i wish i had a carb and didnt have sensors to deal with and performance enhancement would be simple any insight would be great

 

Well , My personal opinion is Im glad fewer vehicles use carbs . What have you done to diagnose the problem ? What driveability problems are you having ? Retrieving codes from the EEC is not hard at all . Once you retrieve the codes Im sure one of us can help you out . Im sure it will be easier to fix the problem you have vs switching to a carb . Give us some details , mileage etc and we can go from there .
Paul

 

Lets see, to slap a carb on that baby, you'll have to change your intake manifold, and hook up an older ignition system(Duraspark II would be best.)
Depending on what tranny you have, you might have a pita hooking it up.
Good luck
Evan MacDonald
82 F100 FlareSide
HD 300-6, 240 head
NP435(6.69 low)
2.73 Geared 9"
Blue & Silver

 

Fuel Injection is great for the first 100,000 or so, then it becomes difficult and expensive to keep in top shape. If you live in an area with smog inspections, you have to try to keep it going, not much choice there.
That being said, if you want to go to a carb, of course you will need a carb, carb intake and a non-computer controlled distributor. You will also need to identify the necessary wires to run the distributor and coil. I am not sure if your truck has low pressure fuel pumps in the tank or not, but if so, you can disconnect your high pressure inline pump and just use those. The low pressure pump will need to be rewired to run when the ignition switch is on. I left mine wired thru the collision switch under the dash in case of an accident, and also put in a toggle switch to turn it off if I needed to. Also, if yours is like mine with two tanks, you will have to remove the stock switchover valve located on the left frame rail and replace it with a solenoid operated unit. It won't work without the high pressure pump to switch it. I got a STANDARD brand unit from the parts store. Also a pressure regulator may still need to be used, at least I needed one.
There is tons of wealth on this subject in the archives. Good luck.
Danny

 

i took my truck to the dealer where i bought it explained check engine light comes on frequently, has poor fuel milegage, poor idle,stalling etc. so they did some work and charged me $400.00 the problem still exist really **** me off but when it comes to computer controls and efi iam some what lost i dont know how to read codes or how to take them this is my first efi vehicle

 

Well , If the Ford shop charged you $400 and didnt fix the problem then you need to go back and find out why . Even if no parts were replaced thats roughly 6 hrs labor . Any apprentice tech can diagnose and repair most Efi related problems in half that time . A carb system may be simpler , and Danny gave you a pretty good idea of whats involved . I guess Im biased toward Efi . Ive had good luck with mine , 164K miles and the only Efi related part replaced has been the O2 Sensor at about 110K miles .
Paul

 

I also just finished an efi to carb conversion. Things however, were made difficult because I went from a 302 efi to a 300-6 carb. Therefore, all brackets, mounting hardware and bolt-on hold-on were differnet. Also the radiator, hoses, etc. Wiring was relatively easy with the help of ALLDATA's $20 subscription (was easier than fighting with the Ford dealer for the diagrams and Chilton and Haynes were next to worthless. Reason for the swap: wiring in truck was butchered (before I bought it) and engine over-fueled twice (which eventually killed the motor) and left me on the side of the road I don't know how many times. Got sick and tired and happened to have a rebuilt carb 300-6 that wasn't doing anything at the moment. What I'll lose: easy cold Maine AM starts and drive off. What I'll have:a good running truck that won't cost $200 a pop every time you take it to a dealer/mechanic and if you have to, (or when she eventually becomes a yahd truck) stick a rubber hose from the carb/mech pump to a 5 gallon gas can behind the cab.

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 26-Jun-00 AT 06:33 PM (EST)[/font][p]What other mods were done to it? You say there are headers, was the O2 sensor hooked up/installed properly? Was anything disconnected, like pollution 'crap'? Things like that can seriously affect performance of comp-controlled engines. My 88 F150 302 EFI 4x4 has over 146k miles on it, and The only part disconnected is the air pump, and that is only because the pump grenaded and locked up one day, and since all the pipes were rotted, I just used a pipe cap and capped the tube between the heads off where the check valve goes, and have no problems.