Pros and Cons of a Dakota IFS
#1
09-30-2003, 04:10 PM
#2
09-30-2003, 08:50 PM
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#3
09-30-2003, 09:28 PM
That is all.
Please look at your old threads when you get a chance Daryl. You gave us lot's more feedback than that as I recall. Please comment on ride height, total cost without installation (that just complicates it too much). Ride, handling, cargo carrying ability if you've loaded her up at all. Doners trucks that work. Which are preferred years. Stuff like that. We only got a couple Dakota guys to offer input here. Thanks
Please look at your old threads when you get a chance Daryl. You gave us lot's more feedback than that as I recall. Please comment on ride height, total cost without installation (that just complicates it too much). Ride, handling, cargo carrying ability if you've loaded her up at all. Doners trucks that work. Which are preferred years. Stuff like that. We only got a couple Dakota guys to offer input here. Thanks
#4
10-01-2003, 10:08 AM
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Verywell, a recap:
Total cost w/o installation: ~ $2000
Change in ride height: ~ 2" to the front end
Load capacity change? none (I did put in new front & rear shocks: MonroMatic's)
Preferred years: 1986-88 Dakota (w/ 6 cylinder engine = OK)
Handling: enormous increase in ride stability and ease of steering
Braking: significantly better;stopping distance reduced by 50-60%.
Have I loaded her up?: Somewhat. I make runs to the dump to take our trash cans every couple of weeks. This includes 5-7 trash barrels (40-gal. size) plus branches, twigs, etc from misc. yardwork. Heaviest load so far was probably only in the neighborhood of 400-500 pounds, and it handled it with no problem.
NOTE AFFECTING COSTS INVOLVED:
I did not just swap a salvage yard Dak IFS out of an '88 Dak and into my '59. I stripped the entire assembly down to parts, bead-sanded the parts that didn't need replacing, and replaced ALL those that did or I felt did. Replaced parts include: rack & pinion; brake shoes; brake rotors; EVERY grommet, seal, and gasket; new ball joints; all new plumbing; new proportioning valve.
I did not want to rest on the laurels of hoping that the donor Dak would hold up. It had been in the salvage yard for a while, not to mention it was 12 years old at the time. So, I essentially retained the major (rigid) components and replaced all components that bend, flex, and/or directly affect ride quality and handling. All the old pieces that I did not replace were bead-sanded. Every component, both old and new, were then primered and painted chassis gloss black (rattle can) and installed. Touch up paint was done afterward around welds, scratches, etc.
I had to replace the full length headers with block huggers because the lower control arm on the driver's side hit the full length header. I also had to replace the starter, which is located on the passenger's side, because it was too large and was hitting the block hugger header. $200 starter + $200 for the block huggers... but these costs are included in the $2000 listed above.
If anyone has any questions about the IFS install, componentry, or just wants some tips or discussion on the installation or even just conversation to help you decide which IFS to go with, please do not hesitate to E-mail me (my E-mail address is in my "profile").
Daryl
Total cost w/o installation: ~ $2000
Change in ride height: ~ 2" to the front end
Load capacity change? none (I did put in new front & rear shocks: MonroMatic's)
Preferred years: 1986-88 Dakota (w/ 6 cylinder engine = OK)
Handling: enormous increase in ride stability and ease of steering
Braking: significantly better;stopping distance reduced by 50-60%.
Have I loaded her up?: Somewhat. I make runs to the dump to take our trash cans every couple of weeks. This includes 5-7 trash barrels (40-gal. size) plus branches, twigs, etc from misc. yardwork. Heaviest load so far was probably only in the neighborhood of 400-500 pounds, and it handled it with no problem.
NOTE AFFECTING COSTS INVOLVED:
I did not just swap a salvage yard Dak IFS out of an '88 Dak and into my '59. I stripped the entire assembly down to parts, bead-sanded the parts that didn't need replacing, and replaced ALL those that did or I felt did. Replaced parts include: rack & pinion; brake shoes; brake rotors; EVERY grommet, seal, and gasket; new ball joints; all new plumbing; new proportioning valve.
I did not want to rest on the laurels of hoping that the donor Dak would hold up. It had been in the salvage yard for a while, not to mention it was 12 years old at the time. So, I essentially retained the major (rigid) components and replaced all components that bend, flex, and/or directly affect ride quality and handling. All the old pieces that I did not replace were bead-sanded. Every component, both old and new, were then primered and painted chassis gloss black (rattle can) and installed. Touch up paint was done afterward around welds, scratches, etc.
I had to replace the full length headers with block huggers because the lower control arm on the driver's side hit the full length header. I also had to replace the starter, which is located on the passenger's side, because it was too large and was hitting the block hugger header. $200 starter + $200 for the block huggers... but these costs are included in the $2000 listed above.
If anyone has any questions about the IFS install, componentry, or just wants some tips or discussion on the installation or even just conversation to help you decide which IFS to go with, please do not hesitate to E-mail me (my E-mail address is in my "profile").
Daryl
#5
10-01-2003, 03:22 PM
#7
10-02-2003, 10:42 AM
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#8
10-03-2003, 05:43 AM
#9
10-03-2003, 08:04 PM
#10
10-04-2003, 10:07 AM
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Estimate of time to install the Dakota IFS?
Obviously, that depends on your expertise in welding and knowledge of the process. I would estimate between 30-40 hours of actual work time (safe estimate). This includes R&R front facia/fenders, motor, installing new components, plumbing brakes, redoing steering shaft, allignment, tires/wheels, test drives, adjustments, etc....
Could be done quicker if you have the manpower to throw at it; could take more time if you're doing it solo or "with a buddy" and you're first-timers.
Butch n Me
PS- correcting upholstery debacle come Monday, 10/13
Obviously, that depends on your expertise in welding and knowledge of the process. I would estimate between 30-40 hours of actual work time (safe estimate). This includes R&R front facia/fenders, motor, installing new components, plumbing brakes, redoing steering shaft, allignment, tires/wheels, test drives, adjustments, etc....
Could be done quicker if you have the manpower to throw at it; could take more time if you're doing it solo or "with a buddy" and you're first-timers.
Butch n Me
PS- correcting upholstery debacle come Monday, 10/13
#11
10-04-2003, 10:33 AM
Daryl "Butch 302" Stone,
Would you be kind enough to answer two more questions -
1. Your level of expertise relative to installation of things such as the Dakota IFS. Use the 1= can't spell "Dakota" to 5= Chip Foose.
2. Did you do your own welding or was did a pro do it and how much of the total time was just welding?
Thanks,
RMF "Wussy lil SD-EFI 302"
Would you be kind enough to answer two more questions -
1. Your level of expertise relative to installation of things such as the Dakota IFS. Use the 1= can't spell "Dakota" to 5= Chip Foose.
2. Did you do your own welding or was did a pro do it and how much of the total time was just welding?
Thanks,
RMF "Wussy lil SD-EFI 302"
#12
10-04-2003, 01:15 PM
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RMF,
I had a pro do the entire install. His level of expertise is a "4" if Chip Foose is a "5". Actual time welding is hard to nail down exactly since much of it was done when I wasn't around. I'd guesstimate actual welding time for the IC Crossmember to be ~1hr. This does NOT include measuring 3-4x to double and triple check placement of the IFS on the frame rails. Once placed and marked, IC recommends you you temporarily tack-weld the Crossmember in place then double check placement again. Makes obvious sense and most do this anyways as SOP.
Once the engine, stock suspension and front facia are out and the front end's off the ground, total marking, placing, tacking, re-checking placement and final welding-in time of the Dakota IFS I'd guesstimate as 4-6 hours. This may/may not include assembling each hub and respective components... and may/may not include time to R&R parts that may need replacing.
Reminder: besides requiring a smaller starter and block hugger headers, a major obstacle we had to overcome was locating a dual sump oil pan and oil pump.
Daryl
I had a pro do the entire install. His level of expertise is a "4" if Chip Foose is a "5". Actual time welding is hard to nail down exactly since much of it was done when I wasn't around. I'd guesstimate actual welding time for the IC Crossmember to be ~1hr. This does NOT include measuring 3-4x to double and triple check placement of the IFS on the frame rails. Once placed and marked, IC recommends you you temporarily tack-weld the Crossmember in place then double check placement again. Makes obvious sense and most do this anyways as SOP.
Once the engine, stock suspension and front facia are out and the front end's off the ground, total marking, placing, tacking, re-checking placement and final welding-in time of the Dakota IFS I'd guesstimate as 4-6 hours. This may/may not include assembling each hub and respective components... and may/may not include time to R&R parts that may need replacing.
Reminder: besides requiring a smaller starter and block hugger headers, a major obstacle we had to overcome was locating a dual sump oil pan and oil pump.
Daryl
#13
10-06-2003, 12:00 PM
#14
10-21-2003, 07:46 PM
have just recently got my 53 on the road with this kit does well compared to straight that I was riding on done the whole thing with help from my family no pro welders or fitters just measure twice close eyes and cut . The only thing that I noticed is ride is little hard have been told by IC to check springs ones for v6 are stiff havent done this yet just dodge holes and go and enjoy the looks thanks
#15
10-21-2003, 09:38 PM
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