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Advice for beginners: If you're going to weld something that your life or the life of someone else depends on...STUDY, PRACTICE, AND HAVE IT TESTED.

Good luck, and BE SAFE.

Jim McNaul
BobJonesSpecial

 

When you go to weld the v-clip in be sure not to weld it in level!!! The v-clip has to be tilted slightly or it will not handle correctly.

 

I used an angle finder to set mine at 4 degrees. The No-Limit video suggests 4-5 degrees. They call this the anti-dive angle and the 4-5 degree tilt ensures that you end up with positive caster for proper handling.

 

What you can't do is slap the clip up against the bottom on the frame without notching the F100 frame. It's point we need to put in the wrap-up because you won;t achieve an acceptable caster angle. Not even close. Notchless bolt-in Volare is not an option.

Next subject. How long did it take you to install? I put my estimates at 10-14 hours to install, 20+ to box and make the entire job neat.

We'll average the results for a time range.

 

How long did it take you to install? I put my estimates at 10-14 hours to install, 20+ to box and make the entire job neat.

We'll average the results for a time range. [/B][/QUOTE]

'fenders,

Unfortunately, I didn't keep track of the time I spent on mine as I didn't realize there would be a quiz! I couldn't even hazard a guess. However, the time I spent was considerably more than what you did! I probably spent as much time removing the suspension from the donor car as you did on the entire installation. At my age, a day's work is about four hours. I spent about two weeks disassembling the donor car including pulling the engine and transmission, drive shaft, rear end, exhaust, wiring, master cylinder, steering column, etc. Then I spent another three days pulling the front suspension. The notching of the frame and boxing went much faster than I thought it would. The cleaning and painting of the frame and crossmember went much slower...

 

"Volare" time estimate -


Removal of the donor suspension (excluding steering column and mstr cyl) - approx. 8 hours. (intensive)

Removal of stock F100 front suspension - 4 hours. (intensive)

Cleaning and painting all IFS related bits - 5-10 hours

Reviewing No Limit Video - 2 hrs (watched it approx.4 times)

Notching F100 frame per video - 4 hrs.

Mocking in IFS, marking, dropping, trimming, mocking in, marking, dropping, trimming, etc, etc. (geting that 4 degrees of anti-dive) - 16 - 24 hours. (spread over 5 days)

Professional welding to attach to frame - 2 hours

Trimming boxing plates - 2-3 hours

Welding in boxing plates (includes teaching myself to MIG weld) - 2 full days. (A pro. would have taken no more than 3 hours)

Re-assembling IFS components with new ball joints,rotors,etc - 1 day.

(a day (CDN) = 5 to 6 hours)

Total - 55 to 65 hours of working time.

I consider my level of ability to be a weak "3". A "1" can barely spell "street rodder", a "5" has been one for 30 years and is likely on his 6th rod. With the video, I had no fear of tackling this job. Prior to vieewing the video, I had major fears - mainly because without medicinal assistance, I have trouble visualizing things.

Later,

 

I recommend we do not include removal from the donor clip time to keep this simple. You could remove the donor IFS in 20 minutes with air tools and a smoke wrench. Or have a salvage yard do it. Or you could lay in the mud for 2 days and remove it yourself at the yard with a bad toolset. Too many variables.

You could also speed up the F00 straight axle removal too. (Not to 20 minutes of course if you care about your truck). I suggest we assume a certain amount of tools are on hand.

The final answer is only going to be an estimate of course. Feel free to increase my install time if you think it's not representative of normal. I had an assistant for the aligning phase prior to tacking when you need 4 hands.

 

'fenders,

I agree that the time it takes for removal of the suspension from the donor should not be included as "installation" time due to all the variables, but I think anyone contemplating this suspension should be aware of what it takes to remove one....and I don't think you could remove one in 20 minutes except perhaps with dynamite...

If the suspension alone is all you think you might use from a donor car, then by all means have the suspension removed by the salvage yard if you can afford to. In my case the salvage yard originally wanted $100 for the suspension and another $250 in labor costs just to remove it. Fortunately, I was able to negotiate a deal for the whole car for $150 and they came back to haul off the body when I was done. All the work to remove it myself was worth the $200 savings, and I learned a lot about the suspension during the removal process.

 

"and I don't think you could remove one in 20 minutes except perhaps with dynamite..."

Bring your '49 down to Alabama next week and I'll prove it. I'll bet you a case of beer Niolon could have your clip laying on the garage floor in 15 minutes.

 

I just talked to my faithful Volare install assistant. He says you better put ‘fenders down for 16 hours install time, then add at least a couple more hours because I had some help moving the frame up and down for a dozen measurements. Then add the time spent watching the video. Starting to sound more believable? Sorry about that. I thought I was good there for a minute.

 

'fenders & Kenny,

I've pulled the info from this thread. Let her sink.

Later,

 

'fenders shared this info with me in a different post -

"I am using 20 dollar ebay used Mustang shorty headers 86-93 style. They are S/S I believe and sandblasted to like new condition. I ran 2 1/4 pipes with Flowmasters all the way back. You will find your pipes can be run arrow straight with no obstructions. "

'fenders - do they dump at the rear or down from the center?



Anybody else in here with a 53 - 56 with a 302 and "Volare" IFS -

What are you using for headers? Make and model? do they dump from the center or from the rear?

Thanks,

 

RMF

They dump at the rear behind the PS box. Although center dumps would might clear on a SBF, the collectors would likely be very close to the PS box, if not touching it. and cook it. Not conducive to steering box life. The mustang headers are a gimme for the Volare SBF install.

 

I'm using the same as 'fenders and they work great (in the garage ). . They dump at the rear and still leave clearance for steering shafts.

Mike

 

Hey fenders,

Did the down pipes from the 5.0 headers end up in a relatively straight line away and still clear the cross-member or was there some twisting and turning. I'd like to use the H-pipe from my 5.0 as well and was wondering what problem I might encounter with the cross-member