So, I bring my 97 F150 4X4 with 86K to the dealer for a check engine light. $266 dollars and 6 hours later the check engine light is fixed but the mechanic says one of my ball joins is bad (he mentioned it was the worst he had ever seen). So I drive home thinking my front end is going to fall apart. I jacked it up and expected to see a failed ball joint but everything looked fine. I grabbed the top and bottom of both tires and tried to rock the tire and it felt tight. I stuck a tire iron under the tires and tried to lift the tire and it still felt/looked tight. No odd tire wear and the stearing feels tight. Did I miss the boat, is there a better way to check the front suspension or is the dealer playing games with me.

 

I would drive back up there and make him show you that it is bad!!!
Jimmy

 

I should have done that the other day! I have had it with our local dealerships (no offence to the reputable one's that read this forum). At this point it is not worth the effort. This will be the second time they gave me an estimate for something I do not need. I just want to give my front end a good once over to be sure. I think I will get more satisfaction of doing is myself...

 

I think suspension parts are often replaced when somebody needs work because it sounds real dangerous, and very few people can tell when a given part is seriously worn. And after all, it's really a judgement call whenever the part isn't just like new. Is it dangerous now or is it likely to become dangerous soon, and how does he define "soon"?

That being said, my F 150 has two (!) grease fittings on the whole front suspension, so it won't surprise me if something goes bad by 86,000 miles.

I would go to someone else (hopefully someone you might have reason to trust), and see if you get the same story. Be as vague as possible as to why you're there. If it's a scam, chances are they won't both have the same details, even if they both try to sell you something!

 

Always get a second opinion, or even a third. A few months ago I had my tranny oil changed at a local shop that had advertised a special on oil changes for trannies. I also had the mechanic check my tie rods since one side was squeaking rather loudly. He said my tierods were worn and suggested I replace them. Estimate? 700.00 bucks! I left and went to another shop that had serviced by truck before. That mechanic told me my tierods were fine, they were just dried out. He lubed them and to date they have not squeaked again. That mechanic has earned my trust and business for years to come.

 

I have a shop I trust now too. I went in because my tranny was leaking real bad. They told me they would have to pull the tranny and redo all the seals. est. $400. They called me the next day and told me when they took off the tranny crossmember, the bolts holding the transfer case to the tranny were all loose and they tightened them all and topped off the fluid and its not leaking anymore. only cost me $100 for the labor and some fluid. I trust these guys now. they could have easily charged me $400 for the job and I wouldn't have known the difference. This was over a year ago and it hasn't leaked yet.

 

If you do decide to do it yourself, look at the Moog brand of ball joints. They're very well made (I learned about them from my days as a HUMMER owner; one gets very well acquainted with suspension parts that way) and they have grease nipples, so you can maintain them.

 

I did a brake job and replaced one tie rod, then another tie rod broke a few weeks after I got my Ford Letter. I just replaced the other 2 and took my 1999 F150 (183,000Miles) to get it aligned. They said all my ball joints were bad along with the arm? I do believe them and probably should have changed them. The mechanic wanted $550 to change them. My local mechanic says he will do it for $180 plus parts. My ego says to give this a try, therefore, anyone done this? I have a tie rod puller and can rent a ball joint puller, however, before I take this on, just need opinions about this job?

1. Is it too hard?
2. Will I cuss at trying to remove the ball joints?
3. Do I need a air wrench or will my breaker bar and hammer do?
4. Anyone replaced all these care to send me a step by step?

I have a Hayes book.

 

More than you thought possible!!

Helped with balljoints on my brother's chevy last weekend. We had the pullers and pickle fork, ect. Those lowwer ball joints are a PITA! Finally just pulled out the BIG sledehammer (the 3 lbs. one wasn't working), one good wack and they pop out.

HA! Good one. Have you read what it says about removing ball joints (lower)?
Basicly just says, "use puller to remove ball joint". Doesn't help much does it?

I'm not trying to tell you not to DIY, just be patient and allow about 2X the time you think it will take. And get a helper if you can.

 

DTHarrett i own a 97 F-150 4x4 also.I had my lower ones replaced a few years ago, and had grease fittings put back on the new ones, Now why the hek they come from the factory without the grease fittings is something that mind boggles me to this date. Only conclusion is that its !@$#! up. I knew mine where bad cuase of the play i had in the front end of my truck by doing the same tests that you did. If your gonna have the lower or upper replaced, make sure you hit em both at the same time and get new ones with GREASE!!!!! fittings on them. An do get a second opinion from like a friend who knows a mechanic or has ties. If they do go bad, the results can be very ugly if you dont get them taking care of in time

 

There is a really good trick to getting the ball joints off, and that is having an air hammer. I have never tried to remove them before without that tool but when you slide that fork in there and hit the trigger it just slips right on out.



Awesome brand and would not suggest anything other than them. Moog has spent a lot of money on their research and development and would put their puts on instead of the OEM.

 

My book says the uppper control arm is an intregal part therefore you buy the whole thing. No problem. The book says the lower arm is also intregal and must buy that whole thing. Others tell me just to replace the ball joint on the lower? At this point, the book and what I hear are conflicting. I usually do the work on my truck, however, I also try to get all the "correct information as this "DYI" is no mechanic. I am feeling cocky though because I just replaced all the tie rods and took apart the intake manifold gaskets on my daughters Lumina. Both projects a success so far.

Thank you for your help, however, I was looking for the correct procedure to replace all 4 ball joints. The book is okay with the pictures, but really does not tell you what to do to replace the ball joints.

Here is as far as I have gone:

1. jack up the front end
2. place jacks on the frame
3. Remove the tires
4. Go to the internet looking for the rest of the steps because my book is
not great

 

I just checked one auto parts store for replacement info. Does this look what I need. What else is recommended to replace while I am banging around? Shocks?

K8722T MOO Upper Ball Joint Each $62.99 N/A $62.99
K8721 MOO Upper Control Arm Bushing/Kit Each $17.99 N/A $35.98
K8695T MOO Lower Ball Joint Each $30.99 N/A $61.98
K8724T MOO Upper Ball Joint Each $62.99 N/A $62.99

 

On my uppers, the control arms came with the ball joint and the new bushings. I didn't have to buy a bushing kit. The lowers can be changed without buying new lower control arms. I got my stuff at NAPA.

Rich
2000 2WD, REG CAB, 4.2V6, 5SPD, 109k+ MILES AND COUNTING

 

Make sure that you check the parts to make sure that they do not come with the required bushings like WVF150 said. Most the time they will supply you with those. Also make sure that you have the time to do the procedure. I will warn you, there will be some cussing. Ball joints are never a fun job... Good Luck!