I am replacing by brake pads and need to remove the rotors. THis is the first time I have done a lock out hub and need to know how it comes apart. I have the cap off, the snap ring off, the retainer ring out, but what do I need to do next to get the rotor off? THere has to be a big nut in there someplace and I can't get to it yet. CAn anyone help? Thanks. Vehicle is a 91 F150 with manual lockouts.

 

Thread two of the cap bolts back into the hub and use them as pullers to remove the hub itself. you should have all the retainers out. then there will either be a large double hex nut or a double nut that has 4 slots in it. this style is called a dana 44 style.

 

lydell

Are you going to replace the rotors or just turn them?

If your replacing them, the rotor seperates from the bearing hub. Drive out the wheel studs and it will seperate.

 

THanks for the replys. All I have off so far is the cap, that was held on with 6 allen wrench head screws, the snap ring, and a small retaining ring. I am looking at a splined shaft now, that seems to move in/out quite freely. What do I do next to get at the hub nut? Other postings imply I need to borrow a spanner lock nut wrench to get the hub off. I can get this on a loaner program at parts store. But see no hub nut yet.
I am going to turn the rotors, if turnable. ON the inside I have some damage, however, that may eliminate that possibility then have to get new. Does the whole hub and rotor come off in one piece? THanks for any help.

 

Yes the hub and rotor come off in one piece, then to seperate them you drive out the wheel studs, then the rotor will be be free from the bearing hub.

You need to get a hold of a four prong wheel bearing nut socket to get the wheel bearing locknut off. I do not recall for sure but somewhere around that time frame they went to a single ratcheting type lock nut on the Fords. If so just push in on the socket while engaging it in the four prong holes.

To go back together start your studs back in through the bearing hub and the rotor then put your lug nut on the stud backwards where the flat side is to the rotor then buzz the studs back through with an impact or by hand. The lug nut will seat the stud back in the bearing hub and pull the rotor back tight with it.

 

If you have all the retaing clips out then you have to remove the hub itself. the actual guts of the hub. it all comes out. Use the allen bolts like i wrote earlier to pull it out. It may be tight.

 

Are we talkng about the lock out hub body or the wheel bearing hub?

 

You guys are great. Thanks for the help. I discovered there was a locking ring holding the guts of the lock out hub body in that I needed to get out. That made two. Didn't show that in the haynes manual. My lock outs are MM brand. I tapped the studs out and the whole thing came right apart. All I have left is to take off the lock nuts holding the wheel bearing hub. Just got the wrench I need, so should be good to go. HOw about some comments on the following: What pads? I chose a $49. pad - super stop. Supposed to be better than the OEM. But I only put 1000 miles on this truck a year. Should I go with the cheaper $20. OEM grade? My lug nuts are the fancy ones. I can't put them on backwards to pull the studs back through. Any other ideas? The parts guy says I don't need the anti-rattle clips any more. The shims and anti squeal grease is all I need. Any truth to that? And do I put it between the shim and the backing plate, or between the shim and the caliper piston? Sorry about all these questions.

 

Spray the back of the pads with anti squeal. And use some sort of brake slide lub on all of the areas the caliper slides. Make sure you clean the slide areas good since you will not be driving it much. Wouldn't want the areas to seise up.

 

You have to remove the hub, then press out the studs to remove the rotor. I recommend the new carbon metallic pads for reassembly. I have been thru many brake pads, (350k miles) and the carbon pads stop better and last longer than metallics.