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1995 F-250 stalled and quit;won't start

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  #1  
Old 03-20-2017, 09:36 AM
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1995 F-250 stalled and quit;won't start

My '95 with 351 with 95xxx miles has never failed me. Pulling into driveway yesterday and she coughed a couple times and died. I have spark from coil, fresh gas, fully charged battery. Turning her over though seems like there's no spark as she only sputters as the key is turning off. I'm up for all ideas. THANKS.
 
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Old 03-20-2017, 03:38 PM
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Seem to be getting fuel as the Schraeder valve sends it skyward.
 
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Old 03-20-2017, 03:57 PM
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Does everything but run.
 
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Old 03-20-2017, 10:09 PM
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What happens if you spray starting fluid in ?
 

Last edited by vjsimone; 03-21-2017 at 07:35 AM. Reason: Correcting text
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Old 03-21-2017, 06:42 AM
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runs off the ether then quits
 
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Old 03-21-2017, 07:45 AM
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So, sounds like a fuel delivery issue at this point.

Hear fuel pump/s running for a second when you turn the key on?

Check fuse/s for fuel delivery system?

Would recommend you check the actual fuel pressure.

Single or dual tanks?
 
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Old 03-22-2017, 06:31 AM
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Dual tanks. Rail pressure is 40# and the range is 35-45. Nothing seems 'wrong'.
 
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Old 03-22-2017, 07:31 AM
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Fuel pressure should never be above 40psi (39.2psi).
Idle is 30-32psi.

Sounds like the injectors are not firing.
Try putting a NOID light on an injector wire.
Is the red wire hot to the injectors with the key on?

Lost power or ground to the PCM Computer or bad PCM Computer or bad wiring to injectors or to the PCM from the PIP sensor.

Does the MIL illuminate when the key is turned on?
Does the MIL turn off while cranking?
Does the tachometer move while cranking if you have one?
 
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Old 03-22-2017, 08:00 AM
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Thanks. Onit. Will get back to you.
 
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Old 03-22-2017, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by subford
Fuel pressure should never be above 40psi (39.2psi).
Idle is 30-32psi.

Sounds like the injectors are not firing.
Try putting a NOID light on an injector wire.
Is the red wire hot to the injectors with the key on?

Lost power or ground to the PCM Computer or bad PCM Computer or bad wiring to injectors or to the PCM from the PIP sensor.

Does the MIL illuminate when the key is turned on?
Does the MIL turn off while cranking?
Does the tachometer move while cranking if you have one?

Looks like PIP failed. Ordered dizzy as mine is original. WOW to move setting bolt to remove. Curious if there is PIP 'kit' only?

THX.
 
  #11  
Old 03-22-2017, 08:53 AM
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Yes there is a PIP kit (stator assembly) and if you do not buy a "NEW" not reworked distributor you might as well replace the stator assembly in the one you buy. Because the one you buy will most likely has a bad PIP sensor on its stator assembly.
 
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Old 03-22-2017, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by subford
Yes there is a PIP kit (stator assembly) and if you do not buy a "NEW" not reworked distributor you might as well replace the stator assembly in the one you buy. Because the one you buy will most likely has a bad PIP sensor on its stator assembly.


Will do. Any other specifics as I'm in it?
 
  #13  
Old 03-23-2017, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by subford
Fuel pressure should never be above 40psi (39.2psi).
Idle is 30-32psi.

Sounds like the injectors are not firing.
Try putting a NOID light on an injector wire.
Is the red wire hot to the injectors with the key on?

Lost power or ground to the PCM Computer or bad PCM Computer or bad wiring to injectors or to the PCM from the PIP sensor.

Does the MIL illuminate when the key is turned on?
Does the MIL turn off while cranking?
Does the tachometer move while cranking if you have one?


I am at my whits end. Ran last night -terribly- but it ran. Plugs were suspect so out they went and so the plugs too. All mechanical parts check out. STILL no run. A 'puff' only after she cranks. Going to hope the first dizzy as it was a reman --but the only one we could buy at the moment then. But morning came and it was not firing. So I stand at new rail filter, dizzy, plugs, wires, 93 octane fresh at front tank. both pumps sound off. Thsi truck in 75xxx NEVER failed me. Now she won't even speak to me. I am ALL EARS!!! THX.
 
  #14  
Old 03-23-2017, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by ybshore
I am at my whits end. Ran last night -terribly- but it ran. Plugs were suspect so out they went and so the plugs too. All mechanical parts check out. STILL no run. A 'puff' only after she cranks. Going to hope the first dizzy as it was a reman --but the only one we could buy at the moment then. But morning came and it was not firing. So I stand at new rail filter, dizzy, plugs, wires, 93 octane fresh at front tank. both pumps sound off. Thsi truck in 75xxx NEVER failed me. Now she won't even speak to me. I am ALL EARS!!! THX.
Does the "MIL" aka CEL come on when you first turn the key on?

Try removing the SPOUT connector and see if the engine fires.

In your above statement highlighted in red, if this is a reman distributor, the chances of it having a failed, intermittent Stator are HIGH. I do understand that's all you had available though. You need to see whether or not the "NEW REMAN" distributor is bad.
 
  #15  
Old 03-23-2017, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by timbersteel
Does the "MIL" aka CEL come on when you first turn the key on?

Try removing the SPOUT connector and see if the engine fires.

In your above statement highlighted in red, if this is a reman distributor, the chances of it having a failed, intermittent Stator are HIGH. I do understand that's all you had available though. You need to see whether or not the "NEW REMAN" distributor is bad.


Much Thanks. What will the SPOUT removal prove? I am a plumber by trade...and why does it need to be disconnected for base timing?
 


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