1995 F-250 stalled and quit;won't start
#1
1995 F-250 stalled and quit;won't start
My '95 with 351 with 95xxx miles has never failed me. Pulling into driveway yesterday and she coughed a couple times and died. I have spark from coil, fresh gas, fully charged battery. Turning her over though seems like there's no spark as she only sputters as the key is turning off. I'm up for all ideas. THANKS.
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#8
Fuel pressure should never be above 40psi (39.2psi).
Idle is 30-32psi.
Sounds like the injectors are not firing.
Try putting a NOID light on an injector wire.
Is the red wire hot to the injectors with the key on?
Lost power or ground to the PCM Computer or bad PCM Computer or bad wiring to injectors or to the PCM from the PIP sensor.
Does the MIL illuminate when the key is turned on?
Does the MIL turn off while cranking?
Does the tachometer move while cranking if you have one?
Idle is 30-32psi.
Sounds like the injectors are not firing.
Try putting a NOID light on an injector wire.
Is the red wire hot to the injectors with the key on?
Lost power or ground to the PCM Computer or bad PCM Computer or bad wiring to injectors or to the PCM from the PIP sensor.
Does the MIL illuminate when the key is turned on?
Does the MIL turn off while cranking?
Does the tachometer move while cranking if you have one?
#10
Fuel pressure should never be above 40psi (39.2psi).
Idle is 30-32psi.
Sounds like the injectors are not firing.
Try putting a NOID light on an injector wire.
Is the red wire hot to the injectors with the key on?
Lost power or ground to the PCM Computer or bad PCM Computer or bad wiring to injectors or to the PCM from the PIP sensor.
Does the MIL illuminate when the key is turned on?
Does the MIL turn off while cranking?
Does the tachometer move while cranking if you have one?
Idle is 30-32psi.
Sounds like the injectors are not firing.
Try putting a NOID light on an injector wire.
Is the red wire hot to the injectors with the key on?
Lost power or ground to the PCM Computer or bad PCM Computer or bad wiring to injectors or to the PCM from the PIP sensor.
Does the MIL illuminate when the key is turned on?
Does the MIL turn off while cranking?
Does the tachometer move while cranking if you have one?
Looks like PIP failed. Ordered dizzy as mine is original. WOW to move setting bolt to remove. Curious if there is PIP 'kit' only?
THX.
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#12
Will do. Any other specifics as I'm in it?
#13
Fuel pressure should never be above 40psi (39.2psi).
Idle is 30-32psi.
Sounds like the injectors are not firing.
Try putting a NOID light on an injector wire.
Is the red wire hot to the injectors with the key on?
Lost power or ground to the PCM Computer or bad PCM Computer or bad wiring to injectors or to the PCM from the PIP sensor.
Does the MIL illuminate when the key is turned on?
Does the MIL turn off while cranking?
Does the tachometer move while cranking if you have one?
Idle is 30-32psi.
Sounds like the injectors are not firing.
Try putting a NOID light on an injector wire.
Is the red wire hot to the injectors with the key on?
Lost power or ground to the PCM Computer or bad PCM Computer or bad wiring to injectors or to the PCM from the PIP sensor.
Does the MIL illuminate when the key is turned on?
Does the MIL turn off while cranking?
Does the tachometer move while cranking if you have one?
I am at my whits end. Ran last night -terribly- but it ran. Plugs were suspect so out they went and so the plugs too. All mechanical parts check out. STILL no run. A 'puff' only after she cranks. Going to hope the first dizzy as it was a reman --but the only one we could buy at the moment then. But morning came and it was not firing. So I stand at new rail filter, dizzy, plugs, wires, 93 octane fresh at front tank. both pumps sound off. Thsi truck in 75xxx NEVER failed me. Now she won't even speak to me. I am ALL EARS!!! THX.
#14
I am at my whits end. Ran last night -terribly- but it ran. Plugs were suspect so out they went and so the plugs too. All mechanical parts check out. STILL no run. A 'puff' only after she cranks. Going to hope the first dizzy as it was a reman --but the only one we could buy at the moment then. But morning came and it was not firing. So I stand at new rail filter, dizzy, plugs, wires, 93 octane fresh at front tank. both pumps sound off. Thsi truck in 75xxx NEVER failed me. Now she won't even speak to me. I am ALL EARS!!! THX.
Try removing the SPOUT connector and see if the engine fires.
In your above statement highlighted in red, if this is a reman distributor, the chances of it having a failed, intermittent Stator are HIGH. I do understand that's all you had available though. You need to see whether or not the "NEW REMAN" distributor is bad.
#15
Does the "MIL" aka CEL come on when you first turn the key on?
Try removing the SPOUT connector and see if the engine fires.
In your above statement highlighted in red, if this is a reman distributor, the chances of it having a failed, intermittent Stator are HIGH. I do understand that's all you had available though. You need to see whether or not the "NEW REMAN" distributor is bad.
Try removing the SPOUT connector and see if the engine fires.
In your above statement highlighted in red, if this is a reman distributor, the chances of it having a failed, intermittent Stator are HIGH. I do understand that's all you had available though. You need to see whether or not the "NEW REMAN" distributor is bad.
Much Thanks. What will the SPOUT removal prove? I am a plumber by trade...and why does it need to be disconnected for base timing?