Wow, I haven't posted anything on FTE in several months.

My truck came with no heater hoses connected. I think I have everything to make the heater work except the control valve and the hoses. Of course, I may connect new hoses and discover why they were removed. The pipes from the core are coming through the firewall as is the cable to operate the valve.

I have a 352 with the heater hose connector on the water pump plugged and don't see any place for the other hose to connect. And I don't know what I'm doing, so there's that.

Can someone post a pic of their heater hoses so I can see how they are supposed to be routed? The diagrams in the Shop Manual don't help, and my searches here haven't answered my question.

As always, any help will be appreciated.

 

Joe, I googled "Ford FE heater hose routing" and found plenty images.


John

 

Thanks John. I never thought to Google it. And I see one of the pics is from a post here on "Heater Hose Routing..."

Guess my advanced searching needs some improvement. I just searched for "heater".

I can see now the PO ran a wiring harness near the starter relay where the hoses and valve should run when he added the extra battery. This should be interesting.

 

Never installed the valve, if it would provide additional heat to the cab I probably should?; having said that, routed the hose closest to the inner fender to the water pump, the outer hose to the intake manifold. Believe the valve is inline with the hose that connects to the manifold.

 

Dave, the valve allows you to shut off circulation of hot radiator fluid through the heater core so the cab can be cooled down some. I see you are in CA, so it might give you a bit more comfort in the warmer months at least.

Chad

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Thanks Dave and Chad.

Here's what I have. Now I see why the PO took out the hoses. He wanted to have the temp sensor on the manifold.

Does anyone know if there's a tee I could use to keep the temp sensor in that location but also add the heater hose? Obviously, the tee would have to have male thread into the manifold, a female tee for the sensor and a smooth for the hose. Does such a creature exist?

 

As I was driving my "new" truck home from CA to WA during some very high temps (104 during the day) I made sure the valve was completely closed. Valve lever operated smoothly, but it sure didn't seem to make much difference.

Got home and tore the truck apart - when I looked through the valve and operated the lever by hand I could see right through it the whole time. Somehow the lever still worked smoothly, but the internal metal valve had been completely rusted away. So operating it from the cab was essentially doing nothing.

The heater core, being enclosed within the heater box, which is inside of the cab, can generate a good bit of heat even with the blower off and the flapper doors closed. Closing the heater valve on the fender gives the heater core a chance to cool down somewhat and not reflect as much heat into the cab.

Chad

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Jolly
Your photo shows a wire behind the distributor. On a stock FE that should be the temp sensor in its correct location. Did someone add a second temp gauge?

 

1965/66 F100/1100:

Economy fresh air heater has a manually operated heater water shut-off valve: C5TZ-18495-A / Obsolete ~ Available NOS

Deluxe fresh air heater has two cables mounted to a bracket under the dash to the right of the steering column.

C3UZ-18495-A .. Cable Operated Heater Water Valve (Motorcraft YG-133) / Available from Ford, repro parts sellers, auto parts stores.

Both of these valves are located on the fender apron, spliced into the inlet to heater core heater hose, just behind the starter solenoid (relay).

 

You're absolutely right. I said I don't know what I'm doing... and that just proves it.

Yes, the truck has the sensor in the dash, as it should, and I'm now assuming that sensor you spotted is wired to it. I can only assume, because the wiring under the dash is a giant rat's nest and I can't tell where anything goes. I'll fix that later. I didn't even notice that sensor until you brought it up.

The after market temp sensor is in a cluster with an oil pressure gauge and a voltmeter.

Since the original temp gauge doesn't work, can I just move the after market sensor to that hole in the manifold and put the heater hose where it belongs? Both holes in the mainfold appear to be the same size.

 

Thanks Bill. I've seen this info in other posts from you on the subject of heaters. Do you know if the valve is actually mounted to the fender apron? All the pictures I've found look like it's simply added to the hose and hooked up with the cable. I don't see mounting holes in my truck for it or on the valve itself. Maybe the hoses are supposed to be held in place?

 

Joe:
Both holes have the same thread, so you can use whichever temp sender you need and place a 90-degree elbow in the other one for your heater hose. Since the hoses were disconnected...I would almost expect your heater core to leak....watch for water under the dash. If you want to keep a second sender for the factory gauge, you can also get a thermostat housing (water neck) with female threads for an additional sender.

 

Replaced the vintage Edelbrook with a stock intake manifold on the 65, U's may be different but seem to recall there is a source/outlet behind the distributor, slightly to the left, same location with the stock?

 

I'd just switch the wires to start. Chances are the aftermarket gauge would work if connected to the original sensor.

You'd be surprised what people do over the course of 50+ years. When I got my truck the PO had connected the ignition switch to the very temp sensor I pointed out. Many other wires connected wrong in a domino affect. Hours of "fun" ensued.

 

Chad, I thank you!! Cooler during summer months is not as much an issue as keeping my backside warm during the winter.