Yes, I would, and even-thought the alternator in question is only 3 years old, it could have a fried rectifier, and not creating a correct charge.

If by chance, this alternator came from Advance AP, I would not be surprised, there re-build parts just don't last. I was going thru starters every 6-9 months from them on my '94. Plus there "life-time-warranty" is only good if you have the receipt after 2 years. Autozone can go back 15 years on my warranty's, there re-mans hold up better, and I usually go for the "new built" not re-man on parts like this.

But, I'll mention again, check the battery terminals too, with it being a '95, with the OEM crimped lead connectors, very good chance that the cables are corroded internally and this could cause the charge not getting to the battery.

Quick check is to have the dome light on, and hit the key to start, if the dome light goes very dim, or out, all the juice is going to the starter, and by passing other electrical systems. That's how I found my problem with the connectors in my '92.

 

HI Wildman,

I have checked the battery terminals. The negative still had the crimed connector​​​​​. I cut it off and cleaned both positive and negative wire's and connectors with sandpaper and reconnected them. I still had the problem. I have checked all of the fuses in the cabin fuse box and the power distribution boxes and all are good. I didn't check what I believe are relays in the distribution box.

The alternator is from Oreilly''s. I agree even thought it's less than 3 years old it could be bad. I was hoping to be able to check and make sure it's receiving the proper voltage to excite it before spending money on a new one.

I believe the three wire plug that plugs into the alternator is for the voltage regulator, correct? If so I need to test it and make sure it's got voltage.

 

Yes, the 3 wire connector is for the voltage regulator.

If you go to the PDF file that jeffreyclay posted, that would walk you thru the testing.

 

Hi Wildman,

I ran through the tests. I got all the was to B13. It says to check the voltage of the S circuit at the generator and the voltage regulator. The are both the same. The regulator is in the alternator. It seems to me that if there is a difference in voltage S circuit between the alternator and the regulator this would be in the alternator, correct? The following step, B14-B15 say to replace the alternator. Would you agree with this?

 

OK, I did a voltage drop test and got .05 on the positive side and .01 on the negative side. Here's something odd. I wasn't getting a charge light when I turned on the key so I went through the diagnostics in the pdf and it pointed to changing the alternator. I bought a new alternator and connected it but didn't start the van. I turned the key and the charge light lit up. It flickered a little but stayed on. Out of curiosity I unhooked it and put the old one back in just to make sure the charge light wasn't coming on. Well, the charge light came on. It wasn't on before. So, I hooked everything back up with the old alternator on there and put the belt on. I turned the key and the charge light was coming on. I started the van and the charge light stayed on. So now I've gone from no charge light at all to it one whenever the key is on, even with the van running. However, it still isn't charging. I'm wondering if there isn't a wore issue here.

 

If I'm reading you right........

Yes, if the alternator is not turning, it's not charging, the dash light will come on to let you know it's not charging.
Was the engine running??, if not, read above^
Maybe the 3 wire connector was not plugged in all the way???

Then that's tell you that the alternator is Not charging the battery.

So......you changed out the alternator with a new unit, you did not start the engine, so you don't know if it works or not?? Did the store you bought the new unit from, bench test it?? I have them do that, cause over the years I have gotten re-man's off the shelf, and they didn't work, I try to get New Built Units now, and still have them bench test them, The last one I got couple months ago, new built, didn't pass the bench test at first, cause the counter "tech" forgot to plug in the 3 wire connector, until I pointed that out to him.......manger got a good laugh out of that......

I think your going way over the hill with this, just install the new unit, hook it up, and see what the results are.

The only other thing to "test" is the battery charging cable, from the alternator to the starter relay, to check it it has continuity, are the connectors corroded, or an in-line fuse popped.

 

Thanks for your help. I wound up taking it to the shop because I really needed it for work. It turns out that there was a broken wire near the battery. I'm not sure which wire it was as it was in a group and they had it all taped up. I think it might have been the lead from the positive battery post to the starter relay.

 

Well.......that would do it too.......as the charge wire is on the starter relay with the positive battery wire on the same post.

But that would have effected the starter too.


Thanks for letting us know what the results were

 

You're welcome! Thanks for the help. I never had any problem starting it. I even drove it to the shop which was about 17 miles and it only lost about a 1/2 volt on the battery. I could be wrong about the wire s there were a few taped together in a bundle.