1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

53 F250 frame swap.

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  #31  
Old 01-16-2017, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Harrier
I just watch a 17 minute video of a guy removing a cab and moving a frame around and I thoroughly enjoyed it. You do know, if I were to say that anywhere else I would probably be locked up.

Why did you choose to remove the cab and frame before removing the engine? I would have thought it would have been much easier to get the engine and transmission out first.
I always have this idea in my head that it will go as I planned....I'll take the cab off, then push it outside....literally...that's how I thought it'd go! lol.
 
  #32  
Old 01-16-2017, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by drptop70ss
I am sure it will end up a nice truck, but doing a frame swap and then doing a drive train update is so much more work than if you had saved and updated that original frame.
I cant believe you cut it in half, that frame could of been updated suspension wise front and back in a couple weekends and the cab wouldn't even of had to come off.
I've done a couple of Vic frames under bumpsides & personally for me that's my preference.

Nothing on this 53 frame was re useable...so I would have to but all new parts after shortening the frame.

My preference is to get a frame that's the right length that's all plumbed & wired with newer technology & drop the old body on to it.
 
  #33  
Old 01-16-2017, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by nathankershaw
I always have this idea in my head that it will go as I planned....I'll take the cab off, then push it outside....literally...that's how I thought it'd go! lol.
Pulling the engine and the steering box off the frame first would have save you time and a whole lot of back ache in the long run. Not to mention you wouldn't of had to cut up the stock frame.

But since you cut it up. You might want to cut that front crossmember out ( the one with the VIN # ) and keep it.

And next time you lift the cab with the engine hoist there is a way to do it that is a whole lot safer. Get yourself another board like the one you used. Stand the boards up on their sides. Drill a hole thru both in the same location ( right around the center ) . Then get a long bolt. You need one long enough to go thru both boards and the engine hoist arm/beam. Pull the bolt off the engine hoist where the chain & hook are. Now bolt the boards onto the hoist arm/beam. Now position everything in the cab to lift it. Then screw a small piece of 2"x4" to both boards on the outside of each rain gutter on the cab. This may sound complicated but it's pretty simple. And doing it this way gives you a fairly sturdy set up that the hoist won't slip off from under it. The boards aren't going to break. And the cab won't slide off the boards. I've used this method a few times on my 54 F100 cab. A few minutes setting this up can keep you from getting hurt or damaging your cab while lifting and moving it.
 
  #34  
Old 01-16-2017, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by nathankershaw
I always have this idea in my head that it will go as I planned....I'll take the cab off, then push it outside....literally...that's how I thought it'd go! lol.
Isn't that how it always goes. I don't know how many times I set off on a simple job and something crops up to greatly increase the difficulty. For you, a very slight incline made a huge difference.

Keep plugging along and continue with your video series.
 
  #35  
Old 01-16-2017, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by fordman75
Pulling the engine and the steering box off the frame first would have save you time and a whole lot of back ache in the long run. Not to mention you wouldn't of had to cut up the stock frame.

But since you cut it up. You might want to cut that front crossmember out ( the one with the VIN # ) and keep it.

And next time you lift the cab with the engine hoist there is a way to do it that is a whole lot safer. Get yourself another board like the one you used. Stand the boards up on their sides. Drill a hole thru both in the same location ( right around the center ) . Then get a long bolt. You need one long enough to go thru both boards and the engine hoist arm/beam. Pull the bolt off the engine hoist where the chain & hook are. Now bolt the boards onto the hoist arm/beam. Now position everything in the cab to lift it. Then screw a small piece of 2"x4" to both boards on the outside of each rain gutter on the cab. This may sound complicated but it's pretty simple. And doing it this way gives you a fairly sturdy set up that the hoist won't slip off from under it. The boards aren't going to break. And the cab won't slide off the boards. I've used this method a few times on my 54 F100 cab. A few minutes setting this up can keep you from getting hurt or damaging your cab while lifting and moving it.
Thanks for the info, much appreciated.
 
  #36  
Old 01-16-2017, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by nathankershaw
I've done a couple of Vic frames under bumpsides & personally for me that's my preference.

Nothing on this 53 frame was re useable...so I would have to but all new parts after shortening the frame.

My preference is to get a frame that's the right length that's all plumbed & wired with newer technology & drop the old body on to it.
Understood, it is your truck so of course build it as you like. As I am sure you have found you learn from each build and may do things differently on the next, we all do.
What camera or cameras are you using to make your videos? I like them and am thinking I should do something similar for my next truck build in the spring.
 
  #37  
Old 01-16-2017, 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by drptop70ss
Understood, it is your truck so of course build it as you like. As I am sure you have found you learn from each build and may do things differently on the next, we all do.
What camera or cameras are you using to make your videos? I like them and am thinking I should do something similar for my next truck build in the spring.
I was using my iPhone 6s but it recently stopped talking to my computer so I'm now using a GoPro3 that I'm borrowing from a friend.

Big bucks production here!!!!! lol.
 
  #38  
Old 02-08-2017, 10:39 AM
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And so it starts...

 
  #39  
Old 02-09-2017, 06:10 AM
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Wow great stuff!
If you don't know what you are doing, then I wonder how someone would classify me.
I really enjoy your videos and the work you are doing.
I can't wait to see the next video.
 
  #40  
Old 02-28-2017, 08:34 PM
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Fat Betty's new heart has arrived!

 
  #41  
Old 03-01-2017, 06:59 AM
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Another milestone, congrats and no airplane flyovers, thats a first.
 
  #42  
Old 03-10-2017, 06:38 PM
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I'm super stoked to watch this build! My current project is a 75' F-150 but this is motivation to get something older after the 75 is done. Great work on your bumps, I'm sure this rig will be awesome as well.
 
  #43  
Old 03-10-2017, 07:56 PM
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Thanks guys!

A little more action has been had!

 
  #44  
Old 03-10-2017, 08:04 PM
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This is a frame swap unlike any frame swap I have ever seen on this forum.
I am not sure I would call it a frame swap, more like a re-skinning of a Mercury Mountaineer using a hollowed out '53 F250 cab.
Nathan has 6 videos on YouTube so far on this build. (Nathans Garage Fat Betty)
Watch them all, very amusing.
 
  #45  
Old 07-14-2017, 07:43 AM
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Any extra progress on this build?
 


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