53 F250 frame swap.
#31
I just watch a 17 minute video of a guy removing a cab and moving a frame around and I thoroughly enjoyed it. You do know, if I were to say that anywhere else I would probably be locked up.
Why did you choose to remove the cab and frame before removing the engine? I would have thought it would have been much easier to get the engine and transmission out first.
Why did you choose to remove the cab and frame before removing the engine? I would have thought it would have been much easier to get the engine and transmission out first.
#32
I am sure it will end up a nice truck, but doing a frame swap and then doing a drive train update is so much more work than if you had saved and updated that original frame.
I cant believe you cut it in half, that frame could of been updated suspension wise front and back in a couple weekends and the cab wouldn't even of had to come off.
I cant believe you cut it in half, that frame could of been updated suspension wise front and back in a couple weekends and the cab wouldn't even of had to come off.
Nothing on this 53 frame was re useable...so I would have to but all new parts after shortening the frame.
My preference is to get a frame that's the right length that's all plumbed & wired with newer technology & drop the old body on to it.
#33
But since you cut it up. You might want to cut that front crossmember out ( the one with the VIN # ) and keep it.
And next time you lift the cab with the engine hoist there is a way to do it that is a whole lot safer. Get yourself another board like the one you used. Stand the boards up on their sides. Drill a hole thru both in the same location ( right around the center ) . Then get a long bolt. You need one long enough to go thru both boards and the engine hoist arm/beam. Pull the bolt off the engine hoist where the chain & hook are. Now bolt the boards onto the hoist arm/beam. Now position everything in the cab to lift it. Then screw a small piece of 2"x4" to both boards on the outside of each rain gutter on the cab. This may sound complicated but it's pretty simple. And doing it this way gives you a fairly sturdy set up that the hoist won't slip off from under it. The boards aren't going to break. And the cab won't slide off the boards. I've used this method a few times on my 54 F100 cab. A few minutes setting this up can keep you from getting hurt or damaging your cab while lifting and moving it.
#34
Keep plugging along and continue with your video series.
#35
Pulling the engine and the steering box off the frame first would have save you time and a whole lot of back ache in the long run. Not to mention you wouldn't of had to cut up the stock frame.
But since you cut it up. You might want to cut that front crossmember out ( the one with the VIN # ) and keep it.
And next time you lift the cab with the engine hoist there is a way to do it that is a whole lot safer. Get yourself another board like the one you used. Stand the boards up on their sides. Drill a hole thru both in the same location ( right around the center ) . Then get a long bolt. You need one long enough to go thru both boards and the engine hoist arm/beam. Pull the bolt off the engine hoist where the chain & hook are. Now bolt the boards onto the hoist arm/beam. Now position everything in the cab to lift it. Then screw a small piece of 2"x4" to both boards on the outside of each rain gutter on the cab. This may sound complicated but it's pretty simple. And doing it this way gives you a fairly sturdy set up that the hoist won't slip off from under it. The boards aren't going to break. And the cab won't slide off the boards. I've used this method a few times on my 54 F100 cab. A few minutes setting this up can keep you from getting hurt or damaging your cab while lifting and moving it.
But since you cut it up. You might want to cut that front crossmember out ( the one with the VIN # ) and keep it.
And next time you lift the cab with the engine hoist there is a way to do it that is a whole lot safer. Get yourself another board like the one you used. Stand the boards up on their sides. Drill a hole thru both in the same location ( right around the center ) . Then get a long bolt. You need one long enough to go thru both boards and the engine hoist arm/beam. Pull the bolt off the engine hoist where the chain & hook are. Now bolt the boards onto the hoist arm/beam. Now position everything in the cab to lift it. Then screw a small piece of 2"x4" to both boards on the outside of each rain gutter on the cab. This may sound complicated but it's pretty simple. And doing it this way gives you a fairly sturdy set up that the hoist won't slip off from under it. The boards aren't going to break. And the cab won't slide off the boards. I've used this method a few times on my 54 F100 cab. A few minutes setting this up can keep you from getting hurt or damaging your cab while lifting and moving it.
#36
I've done a couple of Vic frames under bumpsides & personally for me that's my preference.
Nothing on this 53 frame was re useable...so I would have to but all new parts after shortening the frame.
My preference is to get a frame that's the right length that's all plumbed & wired with newer technology & drop the old body on to it.
Nothing on this 53 frame was re useable...so I would have to but all new parts after shortening the frame.
My preference is to get a frame that's the right length that's all plumbed & wired with newer technology & drop the old body on to it.
What camera or cameras are you using to make your videos? I like them and am thinking I should do something similar for my next truck build in the spring.
#37
Understood, it is your truck so of course build it as you like. As I am sure you have found you learn from each build and may do things differently on the next, we all do.
What camera or cameras are you using to make your videos? I like them and am thinking I should do something similar for my next truck build in the spring.
What camera or cameras are you using to make your videos? I like them and am thinking I should do something similar for my next truck build in the spring.
Big bucks production here!!!!! lol.
#42
#44
This is a frame swap unlike any frame swap I have ever seen on this forum.
I am not sure I would call it a frame swap, more like a re-skinning of a Mercury Mountaineer using a hollowed out '53 F250 cab.
Nathan has 6 videos on YouTube so far on this build. (Nathans Garage Fat Betty)
Watch them all, very amusing.
I am not sure I would call it a frame swap, more like a re-skinning of a Mercury Mountaineer using a hollowed out '53 F250 cab.
Nathan has 6 videos on YouTube so far on this build. (Nathans Garage Fat Betty)
Watch them all, very amusing.