The secondary fuel circuit is electrical, it has nothing to do with the pressure regulator. The fuel pumps should make a very audible hum.

 

Ok, ill check for 12v at the pumps. Since the pumps are just clicking(my ear next to the tank and a faint click can be heard)and not humming does that mean the pumps need to be replaced?

 

If the pumps are receiving the full 12v and only clicking, either the pumps are dead or they have a bad ground.

 

So far I don't have 12v to the front tank. But when the connector is connected the tank clicks, doesn't hum

 

Correction...i have 6.69 volts to the front tank(tank selector switch was set on rear tank not front, haha)

 

6.68 volts to the rear tank. Bad pumps?

 

Can you clarify? Not trying to be rude, but I honestly really have no idea what you just said.

Remember the pumps only run for 1 second when you turn the key on, so you'll need a helper. If you're only getting 6.68 volts at the selected pump when the key is turned on, then the pump isn't getting power. It needs 12 volts.

 

KOEO(I turn the key and then go under the truck) the wiring harness(pump disconnected) for the front tank tested 6.69V, with the rear tank I got 6.68V. Will I need to test within that 1 second(have an assistant turn the key while I'm under the truck watching the meter)?

 

Try this test. Ground the fuel pump test pin

 

Yes, you will need an assist to turn the key, or as humphrey169 posted, you can ground the fuel pump test pin and turn the key on, and the pumps should run continuously.

 

If the pumps run, then I will need to find where the ground wire is damaged, correct?

 

If the pumps don't run, replace the pump/pumps, yes?

 

Grounded the fuel test pin, turned key on, pumps did not run. Neither front or rear tank

 

Check the kick panel for the fuel reset

 

The inertia switch?