White smoke..... (I know I already did a search)....
#1
White smoke..... (I know I already did a search)....
Short history:
Two weeks ago I purchase a used 2005 F250 6.0l w/ 132k miles. I bought it from a used truck dealer specializing in diesels. He had the heads done, ARP studs added (can see at least half of them..). And on probing he said (haven't or can't verify easily) replaced the oil cooler, egr cooler (said it was a BPD), at that time he also added a sinister diesel bypass coolant filter (I can verify that :-) ). He let me drive it home for the night before it was paid for and have it inspected which I did w/ a guy I've used before, as well as me doing a semi knowledgeable look see (having had a 2004 and 2005 6.0l before.. that's a longer story). All checked out, except for the bed pan was seeping. I drive it for a week with no issues, where I live is pretty hilly so I do get some loading on it even with it empty.
The Problem:
The other day I noticed that at a stop light going up a hill, the truck spit out a big plum of white smoke on acceleration from the light. I have not been able to reproduce it under any other circumstances yet, only going up a hill from a stop. I did not notice any loss of power or excessive turbo lag when it occurred the 2 times it has happened.
What I've looked at so far:
-I do not have any perceivable coolant loss, still a short period so may still be coolant, but would be surprised with the supposed upgrades done.
-No evidence of coolant coming out the degauss bottle.
-Just to be sure it isn't a failed egr cooler I pulled the egr valve (thanks guys for the tips on getting that out ) and it was bone dry and surprisingly clean except for around where the valve was.
-It starts fine, it's cali, so it's only like 50 degrees in the am.
What I am going to do soon:
-Change the oil (Rotella T6 5w-40) while switching back to the Motorcraft cap and filter. Will use 2 quarts of Hot Shot's Stiction Eliminator (per FICMRepair recommendations).
-I normally use Diesel Kleen, but will use Hot Shots Diesel Extreme on the next fill up.
-Change the fuel filters using Motorcraft parts.
In the next month:
-Transmission service: Switch to the 6.4 pan and filter and change the bypass filter, using motorcraft sp oil. Upgrade solenoids.
When funds allow:
-Edge Insight CTS2.
-FICM Repair Atlas tune.
-Sulastic shackles and Bilstein shocks.
-Gearhead tow tune (if issues are resolved)
Any Ideas?
Thanks
b_dub
Two weeks ago I purchase a used 2005 F250 6.0l w/ 132k miles. I bought it from a used truck dealer specializing in diesels. He had the heads done, ARP studs added (can see at least half of them..). And on probing he said (haven't or can't verify easily) replaced the oil cooler, egr cooler (said it was a BPD), at that time he also added a sinister diesel bypass coolant filter (I can verify that :-) ). He let me drive it home for the night before it was paid for and have it inspected which I did w/ a guy I've used before, as well as me doing a semi knowledgeable look see (having had a 2004 and 2005 6.0l before.. that's a longer story). All checked out, except for the bed pan was seeping. I drive it for a week with no issues, where I live is pretty hilly so I do get some loading on it even with it empty.
The Problem:
The other day I noticed that at a stop light going up a hill, the truck spit out a big plum of white smoke on acceleration from the light. I have not been able to reproduce it under any other circumstances yet, only going up a hill from a stop. I did not notice any loss of power or excessive turbo lag when it occurred the 2 times it has happened.
What I've looked at so far:
-I do not have any perceivable coolant loss, still a short period so may still be coolant, but would be surprised with the supposed upgrades done.
-No evidence of coolant coming out the degauss bottle.
-Just to be sure it isn't a failed egr cooler I pulled the egr valve (thanks guys for the tips on getting that out ) and it was bone dry and surprisingly clean except for around where the valve was.
-It starts fine, it's cali, so it's only like 50 degrees in the am.
What I am going to do soon:
-Change the oil (Rotella T6 5w-40) while switching back to the Motorcraft cap and filter. Will use 2 quarts of Hot Shot's Stiction Eliminator (per FICMRepair recommendations).
-I normally use Diesel Kleen, but will use Hot Shots Diesel Extreme on the next fill up.
-Change the fuel filters using Motorcraft parts.
In the next month:
-Transmission service: Switch to the 6.4 pan and filter and change the bypass filter, using motorcraft sp oil. Upgrade solenoids.
When funds allow:
-Edge Insight CTS2.
-FICM Repair Atlas tune.
-Sulastic shackles and Bilstein shocks.
-Gearhead tow tune (if issues are resolved)
Any Ideas?
Thanks
b_dub
#2
#3
It's happened a total of 3 times now. I don't drive it everyday (my commuter car is a Prius ) so it doesn't get a whole lot of miles. But I've loaned out the Prius to a wife's friend in need so I "have" to drive the truck now .
I'll drain the water separator tomorrow. Are you thinking it may be water getting picked up on the hills?
Thanks
I'll drain the water separator tomorrow. Are you thinking it may be water getting picked up on the hills?
Thanks
#4
You'll need some gauges to verifi ficm , do this test cold start , a failing ficm throws all sorts in the mix= smoke , stiction cold, when the ficm heats up the values look better and stiction goes away , the other thing to look at is the Turbo , your not driving a whole lot and the turbo Vain's might be seizing up. Monitor VGT EBP, map
Last edited by 04badford; 10-14-2016 at 06:44 PM. Reason: Adding
#5
I'll get the wife to help verify the ficm, gauges are on the list, but not cleared by the wife yet (trying to ease her into the 4k I need/want to put into it). So I'll go old school w/ a voltmeter. I have not had any cold start issues, and when it happens it's been well up to temp, as it's been 30+ minutes into the drive home. I have 45 minute commute uphill on the way home when it has happened.
Thanks for the suggestions.
Thanks for the suggestions.
#6
#7
Update:
Oil change to Rotella T6 5W-40 with 2qt of Hot Shot's Stiction Eliminator.
After that I have not seen the big plume of white smoke. Now I get to see a small puff of black smoke (no tuner yet ).
Did a quick check of the EBP sensor, wasn't plugged up, and the tube looked clear. When I did that I noticed the air intake hose after the MAF wasn't clamped (when I tried to take it off, at least it made that easier). Also noticed some dust on the intake side of the turbo, so I'll pull it and clean it in the next couple weeks.
Still have not checked the FICM voltage.... I know I'm lame.
Oil change to Rotella T6 5W-40 with 2qt of Hot Shot's Stiction Eliminator.
After that I have not seen the big plume of white smoke. Now I get to see a small puff of black smoke (no tuner yet ).
Did a quick check of the EBP sensor, wasn't plugged up, and the tube looked clear. When I did that I noticed the air intake hose after the MAF wasn't clamped (when I tried to take it off, at least it made that easier). Also noticed some dust on the intake side of the turbo, so I'll pull it and clean it in the next couple weeks.
Still have not checked the FICM voltage.... I know I'm lame.
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#8
#9
I've been running Hot Shot's Fuel additive in the last fill up, and normally run the grey DK. Anything else I can easily do to prolong or minimize the potential failure? I plan on the blue spring mod, but am trying to prioritize the spending as to not dump too much $ to fast and scare my wife. Should I move that up?
Thanks
Thanks
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As long as the Ficm is not below 45v on cold start you should be ok , just don't let it be below other wise back to Explaining how the ficm saves the Injectors story
The new OEM oil cap is a must , just make sure you get the OEM filter too , that should help your oil pressure
Last edited by 04badford; 10-21-2016 at 06:56 PM. Reason: Adding
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