Might it be possible you got any of the wires crossed? I could not tell entirely what you were trying to say in your last post.

 

No the only thing I replace was the pigtails for the valve cover gasket replaced the whole fuel bowl harness I replace the high-pressure oil pump I replace the IDM replace the ejection pressure regulator I replace injection pressure sensor but my wait to start light does not come on I did fall your chart only thing that does not work is the glow plug relay but I do not need the glow plugs because I live in Southwest Florida where it's always hot

 

So are you getting a wait to start light?

 

No I don't I never have even when it ran I didn't have wait to start light on

 

Check your fuse #22 under the hood. Check all your fuses in the fusebox under the hood. It sounds a little like you shotgunned the repairs. Start from square one and remember that slow is smooth and smooth is fast. I'd seriously start from the top, check every repair you have done like connections, wiring, etc, and just go down the chart step by step. You must be overlooking something. And the biggest thing...DO NOT get in a hurry! LOL....take your time. I have overlooked some very rookie stuff by going too fast.

 

I have already replaced all the fuse and I just double checked them and they're still good the last time I got my truck started was two months ago when I put my chip in then it wouldn't start so I took the chip back out and I blew a high-pressure oil linefix that and put all the new parts on it still won't start

 

I just tested the plugs to the Val covers and I am not getting any power to them

 

Did you unhook the battery before taking the chip out?

Keep in mind that the WTS light is the signal we all look for to see if there is power to the PCM. If the WTS light bulb was burned out before and the truck ran then there was power going to the PCM. Now if there isn't power going to the PCM (or the WTS light), because of another problem then you will have to test for power at the PCM or else you are wasting time fixing things that may not be broke.

I am going to get in trouble for this one, but I think the '96 PCM should start your truck.

How much fuel is in the tank?

Kevin

 

I'd recheck all of your wiring. Something is crossed not getting power to the harness. It's gotta be what's affecting every other issue because it's all electrical (GPR, no WTS light).

 

The '96 PCM should be fine as long as the transmissions are the same. Even then you can swap it out and see if it will start or at least give you the WTS light. And yes, ALWAYS disconnect your batts at the negative cable before doing any chip removal/installation.

 

How would you check power to the pcm

 

You know what I unplugged the battery's to put the chip in but I do not think I did when I took it out

 

First I would get a test light or a volt meter and open the fuse box under the hood. Check for battery voltage on both sides of the top of fuse #22 with the fuse still in the box with KOEO (key on engine off). Should be a 20 AMP according to the online manual. (oops on my truck it is 30 AMP).

Then pull the diode #12 under the hood, one pin should have battery voltage, the other one not.

If that checks good, then turn the key off pull relay #1. See pic below.



On my truck, under relay #1 there is 12.xx volts on the pins at the 2 yellow arrows, and 5.xx volts on the pin at blue arrow. There was 0 volts on the other pin

Turn the key back on and check for voltage on the pins under the relay.

If that checks ok, you might be able to swap relay #1 and relay #3 (horn relay) and see if that makes a difference.

I haven't found which pin(s) feed the PCM connector with 12 volts yet.

Kevin

 

Everything checks out fine what's next

 

Are you getting any white smoke while cranking?

Kevin