Howdy Folks,

This is my first time posting, though ive been lurking for years. I have researched this problem and troubleshot it to no avail. Then i left town for 2 months... I would like to approach this problem from the beginning with some outside help this time.

1996 F350 7.3l turbo dually, 101,000miles

I had just pulled off the farm, drove about a 1/4 mile and then it started to lose power like running out of fuel. My gauges are broken so I figured i must have messed up and ran it dry. That was not the case. I opened up the fuel filter housing to see if it was getting fuel. OH LORD. The filter was sitting in about 2 inches of sludge, i don't believe it could have been any dirtier!
(I often fill up at little podunk station on our road, I have learned my lesson...)

I cleaned the housing, replaced the filter, blew out the fuel lines leading back to the tank. The filter housing is filling up while cranking, but not KEOE. Fuel is coming out clean.

Took a multimeter to the GPR and it was reading 0 with the key on, so I replaced it. Still nothing. At this point that i left for Oregon to enjoy some cool weather. Now none of this is a fresh as it was and the trail has gone cold, any help would be greatly appreciated. Hopefully the injectors/pump are not trashed.


Thanks,
Silas


1996 F350 7.3l turbo dually, 101,000miles

 

Sounds to me like you are growing algae in your fuel. The only cure is a complete drain and the addition of Bio-Kleen fuel additive. Had the same issue myself, it's a pisser.

If the stuff was reddish in color and slimy, it's algae.

 

It was all that, reddish brown and slimy, not rust. Algae sounds right. Lines Tank to Filter have been flushed for now and are flowing clean.

So i didn't run all the way out of diesel, just really low. I suppose i could have sucked up a big wad of algae when i ran the tank to almost empty. Then it clogged up the fuel filter, and the truck "ran out of fuel." I doubt much of this algae could have made it passed the filter right?

Am I experiencing vapor lock? I understand i need to bleed the 2 fuel rails if it is bad. I tried the KOEOx4 method, but no dice.

It was having trouble this last winter and i would basically have to KOEO 4 times to get it to turn on most mornings. Im in TX, it is rarely below freezing even in the winter. Could this be related? a sensor/relay i should check out?

Edited above: I replaced the GPR, not the OEM... lol. Its too hot to think.

 

maybe the FPR screen is clogged and that wont release the air if clogged.


that algae can be tough too, it could still be in the tank to be sucked up again


engine has to be cranked to get mechanical fuel pump to do any pumping unless you did efuel on it

 

I guess I'm late to the party. I haven't a clue what 'efuel' is or 'sticks' for that matter (read that in another post).

My 97 OBS 7.3 4 wd crew cab gets 21 highway and makes almost 30 pounds boost when it's working... been that way since 1997.

What is germane is, if it did get to the injectors, you have bigger issues. I had to not only pull the fuel bowl and clean it, I had to replace the fuel pump as the algae destroys the internal seals and blow out the fuel lines and pull and clean both tanks.

I religiously use Powerservice Bio-Kleen now. Every tank. My truck sits all winter, every winter and I treat the fuel. I learned the hard ans expensive way.

The stuff stinks too.

The FPR screen has little to do with the issue. It's all loaded up with slimy red algae inside and it needs cleaned and there is no easy way because once you have it (algae), it's hard to get rid of.

After you get done with everyone's useless suggestions, come back to this post and do what I said to do. You might be able to get by with a killing dose of Bio-Kleen but don't hold your breath because you might suffocate.

Been in your shoes, sis all that. lesson learned with no help from the Internet either.

Have fun.

 

What gears do you have Sidecarflip? I have 3.73 in my 96 4wd and I'm getting 18mpg.

Just finished replacing a leaf spring mount, radiator mounts and bushings. I ordered a new fuel filter when I got this stuff going to change out in a few days and I hope it's nice and clean, clean clean!

You guys use diesel kleen? I bought a bottle that treats 100 gallons.. as far as I know.. I have 260k on original injectors. I don't want to over stress them in some way if that's possible with the stuff.

 

Without help from the Internet you say? What a time to be alive

Assuming the injectors are not gunked up and wrecked: The fuel bowl is clean, fuel lines blown out, Mechanical fuel pump is operating, and the tank is full of clean diesel. What else should i inspect? I would just like to get it to started before I begin to attempt removing the algae. I will check the FPR screen anyway, probably pretty clogged.

 

You'll have to pull the bowl no matter what to get the sludge out so you can pull the FPR and check the screen then If I remember correctly, the bowl is secured with 3 bolts.

No Internet help, I had my issue years ago when Bio came out and before forums like this existed.. Don't use the crap anymore, but ULSD will grow algae too.

I would not be concerned with the injectors or fuel rails, the gunk cannot get past the fuel filter (which is why it died) but everything before the bowl needs cleaned. It took my pump too. Blew the seals out of it. It's easy to remove the pump with the bowl out but I'd get new connector lines from Riff Raff and clamps too. If you pull the pump be sure you don't loose the plunger when you pull it. It's a long way to the bottom of the oil pan.

I only run Powerservice Bio-Kleen and have for years. It ain't cheap. I also use Caterpillar Injector additive. Not cheap either (nothing Cat is) and hard to find too.

My truck is parked all winter (November - April) every year in the barn which is unheated. I start it every few weeks and warm it up but I don't take it outside. When it's in storage I male sure both tanks are full and the oil is changed.

 

410's with an ARB in the front and a Tru Trak in the back. I get my mileage so long as I stay under 65. Over 65 I don't get squat, too many R's.

I'm pushing 70 (years) so I'm in no hurry anyway. I bought it new in 96, lifted it, did a spring reversal on the front added the lockers replaced all the pivot bushings with roller bearings, Warn premium hubs, added air bags and big tires.... and went back to smaller ones because the big tires howled too much.

People get a kick out of an old fart with no hair driving a jacked up pickup . truck. No rust, Never sees bad weather, ocassionally sees some mud or a water crossing. I use it as a fuel truck to fuel my farm tractors and haul my slide in camper (if you go to the slide in camper thread, it's there with the camper on it....

 

I finally got some free time this weekend, I replaced both old batteries, cleaned the FPR screen, and borrowed a fuel pressure gauge. Connected to the schrader valve on the side of the regulator with an adaptor, it read ZERO while cranking.

According to the Crank/No Start Flowchart, this Leads me to a bad fuel pump. Im headed to get one from AutoZone now. Not looking forward to pulling the turbo and fuel filter/bowl...

The fuel bowl is filling while cranking, but i guess the pump can be "bad" without failing completely?

 

No need to remove turbo when replacing the pump, it's harder to get to but doable.
Remember our pumps are dual stage aka pulling and pressuring at the same time.

 

If it was me I'd pull the bowl and then do the pump. It's not hard. The algae ruins the pump seals. You really should have pulled the bowl first and cleaned it you cannot bet it all out of the bowl without removing it anyway.

But then, what do I know other than I had the same situation as you....lol

Better be adding biocide from now on. I just bought a pint of Power Service Bio-Kleen for my farm tractors that will sit all winter...and the truck too.

Removing the bowl is a lot easier than pulling the turbo...again, I know. Been there, did that.

 

Don't have to remove e the turbo.

Just remove the y pipe from turbo. Fuel bowl and pump can come out as one. I just did this two months ago.

30 year ford fleet mechanic told me the FPR screen clogging, over heats the fuel pump and wrecks the seals.

 

I don't know about removing the bowl and pump together, guess you can. The issue is the cam follower that drives the pump. if it stays with the pump on removal, all is well and good. if it don't, it drops in the oil pan, not all bad really. Too big to fish out the drain plug hole. Just leave it in there....

I don't see how a restricted FPR screen would overheat the pump but it don't matter. His pump is toast anyway, I bet when he pulls it, the seals on the backside (under the large gland nut) are out of the bore entirely.

The pump is cheap anyway. You can buy 10 pumps for the cost of one e-fuel unit.

I would suggest replacing the transfer lines from the pump to the bowl and the clamps (Riff-Raff has them cheap), but I suggested pulling the bowl (3 bolts) the first time and was ignored.

When I did mine, I pulled the turbo and pedestal and installed the delete pedestal and got rid of an oil leak......

Will let him muddle along and see where it goes. he's obviously not open to others experience with the same issue....

 

[QUOTE=SidecarFlip;16529316]I don't know about removing the bowl and pump together, guess you can. The issue is the cam follower that drives the pump. if it stays with the pump on removal, all is well and good.


Loosen fuel pump and if it don't lift up. Turn motor by hand with breaker bar until it lifts. The it won't fall into engine. I had my son watch it.

Yes replace all the hoses while in there too. I found one bulging and leaking and glad I bought replacements.

FPR screen does two things. Returns any air and allows fuel flow to cool the pump. That turbo create a lot of heat.

Removing both allows you to assemble it on a bench and not loose any parts too.