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Help! New 2.5 sticks and new BD turbo

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  #46  
Old 08-21-2016, 03:24 PM
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Ok after changing map sensor to one off my other truck, still no difference . No power , no boost.
 
  #47  
Old 08-21-2016, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by funzjb1
Ok after changing map sensor to one off my other truck, still no difference . No power , no boost.
Too much pressure will kill the map sensor.

Might need a Fooled.
 
  #48  
Old 08-21-2016, 07:20 PM
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Too much pressure? I have zero.
I was finally able to test fuel pressure, at idle 70 psi, under load ( not driving) lowest I saw was 55 psi.
 
  #49  
Old 08-21-2016, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by funzjb1
Ok after changing map sensor to one off my other truck, still no difference . No power , no boost.

I'm not coming in for a buzz kill, but first of that turbo is hyped junk. It's laggy as hell, and will run hot on stage ones, let alone 2.5s. You will melt your motor... Period,

You do not need to hot torque injectors. Ever.

Boost typically will not kill a map sensor, a fooler is not needed. The chip takes care of that.

To me it sounds like your exhaust side is blocked if you truly have 0 pressure. Do you literally have 0 pressure on your gauge at wot throttle? Does the turbo free wheel? Can you brake boost the truck and see it build? Do you hear any whine when you step on it. Unless your gauge is broken then your turbo is not free spooling at all for 0 manifold pressure.

70psi on a mechanical pump at idle would be a first for me.. How were you reading this while driving?

The silver metal sludge us not good at all, where did it come from? Do you have an IC on the truck? Was this on the outlet of the turbo?


Are you sure you wired the EBPV open and not shut.
 
  #50  
Old 08-21-2016, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by funzjb1
Ok after changing map sensor to one off my other truck, still no difference . No power , no boost.
Wow, now I'm at a loss. I honestly thought for sure that was it.

I have a boost fooler on mine not for defuling but because I don't like slamming the map with 50psi when stock it might see 20. Just in my head it makes sence. My tuner knows about it and tunes accordingly.
 
  #51  
Old 08-21-2016, 11:01 PM
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What is best turbo to get for my set up ( name and part no's if possible. I can't stand mediocre! !) After all this I am assuming turbo is junk. I have zero boost at anytime idle, braking, driving it and stomping it to the floor. Just tons of black smoke.
Yes, it 70 psi at idle. I have a fuel pressure guage that reads up to 100 psi. When I Rev it up in shop the pressure drops to 55. I can't do it while driving hose not long enough.
I did not hot torque injectors I just double checked them in case I did something stupid.
Ebpv is wired open, I removed down pipe and checked with my finger.
The turbo does spin freely by hand and I can watch it turn when engine is running. The grey sludge is a huge concern to me I have never seen it before. I do have an IC, I have a banks kits on it. The grey sludge is on the outlet side of turbo.
I know my pressure gauge works, it worked just fine before changing turbos and it showed shop pressure air I put to it to check for air leaks.
The turbo does make a high pitched squeal ????
 
  #52  
Old 08-22-2016, 07:16 AM
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Turbos should whistle not squeal...
 
  #53  
Old 08-22-2016, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by funzjb1
What is best turbo to get for my set up ( name and part no's if possible. I can't stand mediocre! !) After all this I am assuming turbo is junk. I have zero boost at anytime idle, braking, driving it and stomping it to the floor. Just tons of black smoke.
Yes, it 70 psi at idle. I have a fuel pressure guage that reads up to 100 psi. When I Rev it up in shop the pressure drops to 55. I can't do it while driving hose not long enough.
I did not hot torque injectors I just double checked them in case I did something stupid.
Ebpv is wired open, I removed down pipe and checked with my finger.
The turbo does spin freely by hand and I can watch it turn when engine is running. The grey sludge is a huge concern to me I have never seen it before. I do have an IC, I have a banks kits on it. The grey sludge is on the outlet side of turbo.
I know my pressure gauge works, it worked just fine before changing turbos and it showed shop pressure air I put to it to check for air leaks.
The turbo does make a high pitched squeal ????
Understood.

Well you either have a hose completely off or a junked turbo. Can you get your old one and put it back on?

The sludge likely is oil and aluminum shavings. I have no idea what else it could be. The bearings are brass, and other than that nothing metal like should be exiting your turbo.

Can you take to stock one and put it back on and see if there is an improvement. Even the stock unit with push over 30 psi with that much fuel.

Fuel sounds good, 70 is just a lot for a mechanical pump.

If you are building no boost at all while driving... it can only be the turbo or a massive leak between the outlet and intake wye.

I would consider taking the intercooler and piping to get hot soaked and remove any of that metallic sludge before your motor eats it.

I would also be getting all of your money back on the turbo.

For that much fuel a 369 sxe or mid 4 series turbo will properly feed enough air to keep up with the fuel. both require a t4 conversion.

http://barderturboservice.com/produc...974-super-core need to purchase exhaust housing as well...call james.


http://barderturboservice.com/produc...974-super-core
 
  #54  
Old 08-22-2016, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by nossliw
Understood.

Well you either have a hose completely off or a junked turbo. Can you get your old one and put it back on?

The sludge likely is oil and aluminum shavings. I have no idea what else it could be. The bearings are brass, and other than that nothing metal like should be exiting your turbo.

Can you take to stock one and put it back on and see if there is an improvement. Even the stock unit with push over 30 psi with that much fuel.

Fuel sounds good, 70 is just a lot for a mechanical pump.

If you are building no boost at all while driving... it can only be the turbo or a massive leak between the outlet and intake wye.

I would consider taking the intercooler and piping to get hot soaked and remove any of that metallic sludge before your motor eats it.

I would also be getting all of your money back on the turbo.

For that much fuel a 369 sxe or mid 4 series turbo will properly feed enough air to keep up with the fuel. both require a t4 conversion.

S300-SXE 69/74 SUPER CORE | BARDER TURBO SERVICE need to purchase exhaust housing as well...call james.


S300-SXE 69/74 SUPER CORE | BARDER TURBO SERVICE
I'm wondering now if the turbo was cooked on that hard launch. I just re read the OP's first post on this thread. Or maybe it blew apart the uppies something terrible? My ups are toasted and it would still pull boost well into north of 30psi if I let it.

On edit: James Barder is who I ordered my sxe369 from and he answered all my questions and was great to deal with. No if only I could get that sucker installed...
 
  #55  
Old 08-22-2016, 11:44 AM
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I will try and pressurize the exhaust side tonight and see if it holds air. I really do hear any major exhaust leaks now but who knows.
 
  #56  
Old 08-22-2016, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by tshrager
I'm wondering now if the turbo was cooked on that hard launch. I just re read the OP's first post on this thread. Or maybe it blew apart the uppies something terrible? My ups are toasted and it would still pull boost well into north of 30psi if I let it.

On edit: James Barder is who I ordered my sxe369 from and he answered all my questions and was great to deal with. No if only I could get that sucker installed...
Send it to me I'll break it in for free.


The only time i ever saw 0 boost in a truck was when someone clocked their turbo and did not re tighten the center cartridge bolts. Therefore the shaft was seized. Still ran fine just felt like a non turbo IDI.

You would have to have an up pipe completely missing to generate 0 pressure.

I still think its the turbo!
 
  #57  
Old 08-22-2016, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by funzjb1
I will try and pressurize the exhaust side tonight and see if it holds air. I really do hear any major exhaust leaks now but who knows.
Seems to me that you're postponing the inevitable and that turbo has to come off for inspection. The metallic sludge in the piping to the intercooler has to be coming from metal to metal contact and, as I think Nossliw pointed out, is going to get into the combustion chambers.

I don't have a good explanation for what could have caused a new turbo to fail. No oil or not enough oil to the bearings at initial startup maybe, or a rotor that was way out of balance and tore up the bearings to the point the wheel made contact with the housing. Or, it was never put together right at the factory.

The bushings and shaft have a reasonably precision finish and don't require break-in. Plus, the oil film is supposed to prevent any contact between bearing surface and shaft so I don't see how pushing the pedal to the floor could have caused any mechanical damage to the turbo.

Good luck with it.
 
  #58  
Old 08-22-2016, 01:13 PM
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I'm with Nick on this one, except I know that a mech pump can make over 70 psi with a shimmed fpr. Still it has no place with 2.5 sticks.
 
  #59  
Old 08-22-2016, 01:34 PM
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Ok, yes I am trying to postpone the inevitable. I am trying to recover my core turbo otherwise I have a big expensive heavy paperweight sitting in my taking up valuable space that can be used for other stuff. Right I can drive it in and out. I don't want to park on street ( too much stuff to steal).
Why is 70 psi for fuel pressure too much?? Isn't efuel ones higher??
 
  #60  
Old 08-22-2016, 01:38 PM
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70 psi isn't too much. I think guys were just surprised that a stock mechanical pump could generate 70 psi, thinking it took efuel to make that much pressure.
 


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