Have also had a similar experience with cars I do regulator oil changes with at my job that the customer requests I add it in. I don't like it at all. Its just as bad as stop leak if you ask me.

 

Yep, stuff is junk. All of the engines I put the stuff in were in nice healthy condition and never, EVER had any metallic glitter come out in any oil change prior. This happened in about 5 engines that I can remember, all did the same thing. I did also use the correct amount, actually a little less than they said to. Wouldn't use it if it were free. If I had a knocker and had to get it home that's one thing.

 

Well, it's been a few weeks and I've been busy with other projects and my wife's birthday. I got the fuel tank and the low pressure pump, the high pressure pump is still working properly so I'm going to run with it for now. I painted the new tank with chassis paint. Probably unnecessary but i like the extra insurance and it looks nice. I'll probably put it in during the week, I took my ramps out from under the truck and used them under my '73 mustang to pull the transmission.

 

Well, I finally found time to get back to the truck. I got busy trying to fix a leak on my Mach 1 that suddenly got worse after august's cars and coffee. I wound up breaking the transmission trying to re-install the front pump. I tried to source parts for a while then labor day weekend was coming up and I had to get the Camaro back in the garage since that 'Harry Potter' hurricane was supposed to come our way. I went out of town for a convention my wife drags me to every labor day weekend. Last weekend I was really sick but still finally found a trans for the Mach.

This Saturday I finally found my way back to the truck, after fixing my sister's boyfriend's old Chevy. I got the tank installed friday night but the pumps still weren't coming on. Got power to the relay but not the inertia switch. I jumped the relay and the pumps came on so new relay later and the truck was running. I ran out of light but I wanted to see if the truck would move under it's own power. I moved it across the yard and power braked it, which my wife did not enjoy.

This morning I had to do brakes on my mother-in-law's RAV4. The dealer quoted $189.95 per axle which I thought was highway robbery. After she left I tried to take the truck around the block, I was really surprised how well it ran. I took it easy the first 2 stops signs and it ran perfect but never shifted, so the next turn I took I got it going a bit quicker it got to 25mph, then backfired once, then started bucking, jerking, and cutting out. I pulled back in the driveway, added some trans fluid. While I was doing that the truck started overheating, by the time I made it around to shut it off it was already coming back down from the H indicator. I took it to the end of the street to see if the trans fluid fixed the shifting issue, it did not. I noticed while I was on the way back up the street the oil pressure was very close to the L indicator.

Few things I think could contribute to some of my current issues, I don't have the intake tubes running to the air box because the air box is missing hold downs and full of leaves/trash. I noticed a cable I suspect to be the kickdown is stuck in the fully extended position on the throttle plate. The radiator seems to be leaking but the water was coming out of the overflow so I don't think this is the entire issue, but a contributing factor. I noticed when I filled the radiator it had the metal flaky stop leak in it, so I want to pull the thermostat, and flush the engine out. The truck doesn't have a muffler and it has what looks like a straight trampoline pole from the cat all the way back to about a foot short of the bumper. It smoked like crazy yesterday when I started it up but It hasn't run in many years so I'm chalking it up to that. Today it only smokes when its revved up and it just smells like normal exhaust. I don't think it has a blown head gasket but I'll inspect the oil more closely when the engine is cold.

I really like this picture I took before I went inside for the day:

 

I may be able to help you out on some parts, I just picked up a complete 86 5.0 truck with a aod transmission. Has a new radiator and the computer and wiring harness is all there. The guy I got it from was towing another vehicle and the oil pump went out on him and the wife is making him get rid of it. Its a long wheel base dual tank truck. I only need some parts off of it for my 86 that I swapped from efi to a carb but willing to sell alot of the parts just to try and make my money back if you are interested. I can post some pictures if you are interested or email them to you.

 

Pictures would be great! Feel free to post them on here, others may be interested in parts as well.

 

Here is the link to my craigslist ad I posted.

1986 F150 XLT Lariat

 

I'd be interested in the power window/lock bezels and maybe the horn pad if they are for sale

 

I posted in the marketplace if you are interested, don't want to hijack the OP post. Thanks.

 

After work today I fired the truck up to see how long the oil pressure lasts. It seems to last well after the truck gets to operating temperature then slowly falls from there. I ran the truck a good 30 minutes shifting it from reverse to drive from time to time. The temperature never got above the 'A' in normal, but this is still too high for my comfort. Before I shut the truck down and I revved it up and the oil pressure slowly built up to 'O' in normal so maybe it just needs higher viscosity oil.

I was thinking about the bucking and not shifting and thought possibly the truck was hitting the rev limiter since it wasn't shifting. I also have a good bit of vacuum leaks which probably contribute to the lack of shifting.

Here's a video of the truck running. Sounds good for not having a muffler.

 

You have to remember how old the truck is, gauges may read differently than what it really is. Only way to tell for sure is to put a aftermarket one in there to see. Same with the oil pressure or could be the sending unit as well.

 

I was thinking the same thing get after market oil & temp gauges.


As for the bucking and what not and hitting the rev limiter not going to happen! As far I know truck did not have one. It will run max up till it lets go!
Dave ----

 

Your shifting issue may be because of the vacuum line not hooked up to the intake if you have not already checked that or just may have a broken hose or bad modulator.

The water coming out of the overflow could be caused by a malfunction in the thermostat itself.

 

I was planning on getting some this weekend, I have a week full of stuff I don't want to do ahead of me. I'll also have to come up with a way to hide them somewhere, I always feel gauges look out of place unless they're on the A-pillar. I have a temp gauge hidden in the '70 Mustang between my shifter and ash-try. I don't care for the tach I put on the column though. The '73 Mustang parts car I have has the deluxe interior with the center stack gauges but they were missing. I put volts, temp, and oil pressure in the stack. I also removed the warning lights for the oil, and temp and put a tach in its place inside the cluster. I'm very happy with the way that turned out.

Only a guess, thought maybe the EFI had a limiter built in for some reason. When the '98 Mustang hits the rev limiter it just stops pulling which made me think it could possibly not be a rev limit or sorts. I have accidentally spun the 302 in my '70 up to 6500 in first gear before.

 

Took the truck around the block again today. This time it actually shifted and ran up to 35 before I stopped accelerating. It didn't overheat, so I think the issue is that the truck has been sitting for so long. I suspect it hasn't been driven since '09 and the more it gets driven the more it'll clear out.