Originally Posted by cowmilker08

Nate, don't forget the 97 F250 Light Duty that was nothing like the 97 F250 Heavy Duty!

Originally Posted by DIYMechanic

Every one of these trucks I have ever driven has had some slop in the steering. I know that's not what you want to hear, but I think some of that slop is just inherent to the design of the steering system. There are a lot of moving joints in that front end, and I've never seen one that drives like a rack and pinion. Have you had someone sit in the driver seat and wiggle the wheel while you're under the truck? It could be tie rod roll, or a host of other things, but if you're at less than an inch of "slop" in the wheel, I think you may be in about as good of shape as you can expect.

Are you talking about power braking it and spinning the rear tires? With a stock motor it's iffy, in my opinion. These things don't really make much power right off the line. Now once the boost comes on, yeah, but while you're "under the turbo" on a stock motor, they can be a real dog.

The key components of the ABS system are the RABS valve (which I believe you have already replaced), the VSS (which works or you wouldn't have a working speedometer), and the ABS controller, which is a small black module, mounted behind the glove box. Hard telling what parts you may have got if you ordered for a '97. Some parts stores have a real hard time with that model year because it was the transitional year for models and the F-150 was new, but the F-250 and 350 were still the old style. I generally tell them I want parts for a '96. Have you done the "pinpoint tests for the code you're getting (code 12, if I recall correctly)?

I wish there were an easier way to show you this, but I'm afraid it's easiest if you just go to the site yourself so you can use the kinks and scroll around and see the testing procedures. So here goes:

Go to the F series Workshop Manual.
Then make your way to section 06-09A "Brake system, Anti-Lock, Rear".
Navigate to the "Symptom Chart -- Rear Brake Anti-Lock Control.
Then scroll down the page until you see the symptom chart for Code 12.
That will refer you to Pinpoint Test R (clicking the link will shortcut you to the test procedures).
From there it's more or less just a matter of stepping your way through the procedures one test at a time to isolate and correct the issue.

I know it's frustrating, and this can take some time, but it's a bit like gunsmithing in that the first issue you see is not always the cause of the problem. You often have to understand how the whole assembly is supposed to work in order to pinpoint the source of the problem. The links above are good for that. Hopefully that helps.

Originally Posted by mcali2

I must have a short In the system or the control box is bad. I did a lot of welding near that box behind the glove box. what is a pinpoint test? I'm working on the trouble shooting list right now. I was on replace the diode / resistor in the power box but the ones I have are not the same as the parts I was sent. there s one with a on and off switch in the power box under the hood. What is that for?

Originally Posted by DIYMechanic

The pinpoint tests are just the terminology that the manual uses for the step by step troubleshooting that you have to do with these systems.

Hmm. Diode with a switch on it? Not sure that's factory.... Got a picture you can post? Some "creative, aftermarket wiring" may be at fault here.

Originally Posted by farmert

Those are relays, not diodes. The relay with the switch is for the trailer marker lights.