Long story extremely short

3 months ago bought a 2002 E350 Superduty van with 6.8l V10 and 170k miles for $1000 that had a miss,loss of power and hoped it was just plugs/coils or catalytic converter.

Ended up throwing parts at it......
New plugs,coils,IAC,PCV,fuel filter,02's,cam sensor,alternator.....
catalytic converter checked good, fuel pressure good, keep getting p0340 cam sensor fault code.

Tear the front end down to check timming components.
The crankshaft balancer bolt is missing and from the amount of grime in the threaded hole its been missing for quite some time.

Get the front cover off and chains tight,guides and tensioners good but notice the trigger wheel has about 20 degrees of play where I can spin it on the crank left and right and it also has what looks like damage.

Does the crankshaft bolt pin the trigger wheel in place and without it mine was damaged?
Could this be cause of rough idle, hard starts, lack of power when FOT? otherwise drives ok.


I cannot find a replacement trigger wheel. Mine has 39 teeth and theres one on ebay that says its interchangeable but it has 35 teeth.
Cant find a replacement anywhere I look online.
They all state they fit the 4.6 or 5.4 but noone that states for 6.8l

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

LOL - looking for the part number on your trigger wheel, I found your other thread on this subject.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...desperate.html

There is a Standard Motor part, PC615 that covers 1997-2002, and then nothing.

I checked ford-parts.com, and found that they don't list much for anything before 2004, but for 2004, they do list it, at $17.45 - you say that van is a 2002, but ... is it possible the engine was swapped? Because that tone ring you have should be the older style, with the F7 part number. Not that XC one.



[img]http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/RenderIllustration.ashx?id=356966294&f=3&n=XC3Z12A 227AA[img]

 

Jeez, just realized that shows an 8-cylinder engine, but I definitely picked the 6.8L to get to that point.

 

Ah, I see the difference in the "reluctor wheel" is thick or thin (stamped metal).

From an article for the 4.6L but I'm assuming it was the same for the 6.8L: Rebuilding The Ford 4.6L - Engine Builder Magazine

Crank Gears and Reluctor Wheels

Be sure to use the matching crank gear and reluctor wheel. The engine won’t start and run if you are using the thin crank gear along with the thin reluctor wheel. Installing the thick crank gear with a thick reluctor will crack the front cover when you bolt it on and lock up the engine, too.

So you could use a Standard Motor part (thick) and a thin crank sprocket.

 

Shamlessly ripped from the Internet, here's the difference in the two types:

 

Krewat....thanks for your diligent research!
For whatever reason the crank bolt has been missing off the crank for some time by judging by the grime on it. Theres a ford dealer "this modification has been made" sticker on the rad clip but its weathered so no idea what they did.

I havent been able to find the trigger wheel new online anywhere that looks like mine with 39 teeth and 2 holes opposite the key except for a used one on ebay. Unfortunatelly im broke untill fri so I hope its still there.

Also.....sorry about having 2 topics going...the other one is more for my whole timing component procedure and less viewers in the van subsection. I think part of my problem is not a large amount of people have worked on the 2v 6.8

 

I also don't think a lot of people have lost the crank bolt. No problem with having two threads, it's not a big deal



That sticker is more than likely a PCM update, the new calibration code would be on that sticker.

 

Makes me wonder what someone was doing when they pulled it out and never put it back in. I know it didnt work itself loose. Do you think the fact it was missing is the reason my trigger wheel had damage?

 

More than likely - the dampener was probably slamming it. Or, the wheel broke, causing a loss of torque on the dampener bolt and that's why it left, but I doubt it

I suspect, however, someone had the motor apart, didn't lock-tite the bolt and it came back out. Or the motor isn't original and they had to change the dampener to match the accessories. Weird stuff.

Like I said, supposedly, the change in the wheel was for 2003, according to Rock Auto info, but I can't be sure of that either. I think your motor was changed.

 

Not according to what I've looked up. I'm using HvBom from OASIS to look up part numbers. I have ran VINs of V10 equipped E-Series vans from model years 2000 all the way up to and including 2016. For model years 2000 and 2001 (I can't look up part numbers in HvBom for vehicles with model years older than 2000, but I'll assume it to be the same for 1997, 1998 and 1999 model years), I come up with part number F7TZ-12A227-BA. For model years 2002 on all the way up to and including 2016, the part number is XC3Z-12A227-AA.

And to be sure, I have ran VINs of a couple 2002 E-Series vans with V10s in them just to be sure. If the OP doesn't mind posting the VIN of his van so I can run in HvBom and even Microcat at my workplace just to be sure, I don't mind doing that either.

 

Weird.... mine has XC3E-12A227-AB on it. Cant find one online anywhere

 

That's because that is NOT the part number. That is what Ford calls the ENGINEERING number, or STAMPING number, not the actual part number. For it to be an actual Ford part number, that last letter of the four digit prefix has to be a 'Z' (or 'Y' for older Lincoln/Mercury model specific parts).

 

Did not know that. Why the hell do they reference it with 2 different numbers that share most digits. Had me confused.
Thanks!

 

Thank you for that - rep points sent

Excellent info - would be interesting to see if the F-series is the same cut-off on when they changed the wheel and crank timing gear, but I suspect it would be the same.

 

There is a tightening sequence for that bolt and ford only allows or suggest using one time..