Close. Actually 1968 was the 1st year. My 68 F250 has the disc brakes on it also. My PO had put a left side caliper on the right side. Since the port for the brake hose was then pointing in the wrong spot, he connected 2 brake hoses together to reach it. What a numb nut.

 

 

Quick update - after the gearbox was bolted back in place, I got to work on the bushings, tie rod/drag link and other fun stuff.

The I-beam bushings were quite a bear. The ones I ordered 6 months ago were from LMC and i decided to use them. It took a bit of filing in the right places to get them in there plus some work with a Little hammer. Looking back, I should have left the original metal shells in there and ordered some poly bushings but lesson learned

The tie rod/drag link were Moog, and great quality. Prothane radius arm bushings were also nice.

I matched the new tie rod (same length, shape, direction etc) to the old one and everything went back together great. Assume I'll need to get it aligned.

Dropped the truck on the ground and cranked it up. Everything looked and worked great. I'm just happy the rebuilt Bendix box isn't leaking! Can't wait to get this think back on the road.

 

Great Job! I think everyone on this site knows that feeling of accomplishment after doing a job like that. I've watched you thread carefully because I may have to to the same thing someday. As far as an alignment, search how Hiosilver did his.

 

Good news to hear. Glad to hear that rebuilt box is rockin' and a rollin'.

 

Well, another hiccup. After everything was back on the ground and I was heading to get it aligned, I noticed it has a ton of positive camber. I put in replacement shocks but springs are the same. What could be causing that?

 

Roll it forward or back and the suspension will settle back to normal. When you jack a rig up the I beams pivot down and the bottom of the tire shifts inward. And stays that way a bit when you let the truck back down. Once it rolls a bit the suspension will go back to the norm.

 

Bingo bango. Gracias

 

Bitte.

 

The gearbox is leaking a bit. Need to spend a little more time under there to see where it's coming from but what a pain. Need to see what kind of refund policy there is.

Might need to just swap out for the sag box.

 

Sorry to hear this. Check for leak at the pump and hoses. Maybe the pump is leaking and it's trailing to the gear box. Or maybe the flare on one of the hoses is split so it's not sealed at the box.

 

Thanks. It looks like it's coming out of the part that connects to the rag joint. It did come with a one year warranty so I'll contact them and see what they say.

 

New or rebuilt, any thing that bolts together, I always check the bolt/nut torque as you never how long it's been sitting on a shelf or tighten up. Especially like water pumps and carbs screws etc. just to make sure it won't leak.

Back in the day this was the normal thing we had to do to CYA
if not you had to remove the part an tighten all the screws/bolts/nuts.
Right Jeff!
Orich

 

Yepper. Parts back in the day were built better. By AMERICAN workers. But ya still had to double check bolts and tightness. Didn't have to tighten more often, but better safe than sorry.

 

Front right disc is locked up now. Still rolls but you can't turn the tire by hand. I may have stretched the brake line when I was changing bushings but not sure. Guess I'll start by replacing those and go from there.

On on another note. What kind of replacement calipers could I use and where to buy them? Everything I seem to find online is the whole disc brake kit