Bank 2 is the 'front' bank on a sideways v6. Easier to get to? I dunno. If you get no switching, then it is either the sensor or the wiring. The sensor starts to work when it gets hot, and uses a catalyst {not used up in a chemical reaction} that should last forever except it gets killed by 'cleaners' and 'RTV silicone' vapors, and coated with exhaust stuff over time. There's no battery power used to create the signal. So, either there's a LOT of O2 in the exhaust, lean, or the sensor is dead, or the wires broken.
You can pull the upstream O2's {watch for HOT HOT HOT gas coming out to light your engine & car on fire} to check for plugged cats. If the cat is plugged, the exhaust can get out through the bung and you'll be able to rev past 2500 {there is an rpm limiter built in for neutral & park} or drive the thing. Again, hot gas.
tom

 

Thanks, Tom

Tonight I removed the downstream O2 sensor on Bank 2 with my special socket milled down the side. Couldn't remove the upstream O2 sensor Bank 2. I need one of those crows foot O2 tools. Off to Harborfreight. Started the engine and junk came flying out.

Thought I go all the way to the back and disconnect the catalytic convert to the flex pipe. I found a piece of fiber ring lounged in the flex pipe. See attachment. I have no idea what this is! Started the engine up blew out anything else in there. Connected it back up and it ran great very strong and quick test drive. No codes were present. STFT2 was running a little high, about 20%. LTFT2 runing around zero. STFT1 and LTFT1 right at zero. Bank 1x1 is working fine, Bank 1x2 working around .8 volts, Bank 2x1 working fine, Bank 2x2 around .8 volts. I'm suspecting the PCM has to relearn a few things.

Might not have to replace the catalytic converters.

Another problem. Alternator is not putting out like it should be. Not showing up in dash. I read and watch on youtube. Looks like a hell of a task to replace.

Mark

Found out what this ring is. It's part of the inside of the 3rd catalytic converter. Why it has 3 catalytic converters is beyond me. I ended up gutting the converter and it ran fine before I had alternator problems.

 

It's not a fun job. I've done it at least twice, I think 3 times. That's what happens when y
I get sub par parts. There is a write up in the sticky.
I did not do it last time. I've got a friend who's a ford mechanic and he charged me $100 labor. Not bad since it's close to 2 hours if you done it before.

 

lmarkie:Bank 1x1 is working fine, Bank 1x2 working around .8 volts, Bank 2x1 working fine, Bank 2x2 around .8 volts.

From what I understand, things are fine. The upstream (#1) sensor is fine on both, meaning mix & fire are good. Downstream (#2) are sitting stable at .8V. Remember that the sensor produces a low voltage in a 'lean' condition, or where there are O2 molecules floating by. Your mix has no excess oxygen, and as a result of the converter(s) is producing an O2 free(almost) output. Meaning, all combustion has occurred, there ain't no bad things (Hx) coming out, or little, anyway. I *think* this means the converters are 'oxidizing' the remainder of anything coming in. "Oxidation" and "Reduction" are the two words operative in a converter. Oxidation means O2 mixes and 'burns' or rusts if it is Fe(iron), reduction means that O2 is given off(maybe not tech term, but general idea is opposite of oxidation).
To check the output of the alternator you can use a VOM, note engine off voltage, start and not post-start voltage(should spike up to re-charge juice used in startup), note voltage as you add headlights & blower motor loads. Should dip for a jot, and then rebound back to the V it was doing un-loaded. If not, alternator may be broken(tech term), or the regulator. They can be fished out from above after upper intake removal. From web readings, I have not had the experience.
I would also check that the engine has a good ground, the body has a good ground, and the fuse bopower distribution box) has not been corroded underneath or has loose connections. Check the fattest wire from the alternator to the power box for being intact. Engine work can slice and dice, and cause problems (may be easier to fix than an alternator).
tom

 

Finally got the alternator changed. 3 hour job. If I was honest, I'd tell you exactly how many hours. I think I can do it in half next time, now that I know how to do it.

Get 14.2 to 13.9 volts out of the new alternator but the problem now is that the engine runs like ****!!!!! Spits and sputters and misses. When I first started the motor I got

P0113: Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input
P0102: Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input

My bad, I forgot to plug in the connector between the throttle body and the air box.

Now I have this problem.

Pending Fault Log
------------------
P0171: System too Lean (Bank 1)
P0174: System too Lean (Bank 2)

Both banks are running lean so the PCM is dumping fuel to the engine.

Help Please.

Mark

 

Clear codes and memory (disconnect battery) and restart. Pending issues may just reflect the ECU relearning the fuel trims. See if it throws a CEL and codes.

 

Most likely, you're now back to the original problem that caused the precats to fail.

That code pair is almost always a result of an air leak into the intake post-MAF. Check the intake accordion tube and connections, PCV valve, you might as well plan on pulling the intake, replacing the gaskets, PCV valve, spark plugs. and plug boots/springs.

 

Before I replaced the alternator, I replace the PCV valve, valve cover gaskets, new COPs, and plugs.

Disconnected the battery tonight to erase the PCM. One minute it would run good, next minute it would run badly.

I drove it around for about 10 minutes and got these codes:

Current Fault Log
------------------
P0304: Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
P0306: Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected

Pending Fault Log
------------------
P0174: System too Lean (Bank 2)

STFT1 and LTFT1 looked good. Around zero. STFT2 was aLound 30% LTFT2 was around 5%. I'm thinking maybe fuel injectors on 4 and 6 maybe? Probably something simple I overlooked. Maybe have to remove the intake manifold again and see what might have come unsealed.

BTW. When I replaced the alternator. I did the job from the bottom. Not the top. So I did not mess with tubes. Ran good before then.

 

The bank 2 trims are out of whack due to the misfires on bank 2. Fix the misfires first and you'll likely fix everything.

 

You most likely swapped #4 & #6 COP wires. The loom will lay on the cam cover in either direction, and actually looks more 'normal' when it is installed backwards.
Bet a nickel if you swap the two COP wires, you'll get your engine back...

BE careful to NOT run the engine for more than a few moments with a misfire, or you'll be buying manifold/cats. They melt quickly when fed raw fuel.

tom

 

I have not examined the loom layout but based on your description, proposed solution, and wager, I am also in for a nickel.

 

Happened to me and at the time I would have raised you another nickel that you were wrong. I'd have been broke!

 

That's what is was. How many nickels do I owe? LOL!

It is easy to cross. Looks more natural with the loom coming from the lower side of the valve cover than over the valve cover.

I should have known better. A few weeks ago I watched ScannerDan on youtube. He did a diagnostics on a Ford Escape. In his software he used a pressure transducer to monitor the peak pressure of the cylinder and a amp meter to monitor when the PCM was telling the cylinder when to fire. On 4 and 6 the fire was just after peak pressure of the cylinder. When I saw that you, Tom, had mentioned swap 4 and 6 it came right to my mind and I knew you were right. Fuel trims are right at 0% on both banks. Couldn't be any better. Only thing that might need to be replaced is the O2 Bank2x2. Seems to be following the Bank2x1 sensor instead of being a constant .5 volts.

Thank you all for the help.

Mark

 

If I saw the same thing, he monitored, or tried, the amp draw of the starter motor in trying to determine if some cylinders were easier to crank over, indicating less compression.
I got the impression he was trying to sell the sensor kit & software, and showing all the stuff you could 'learn' without taking out COP or spark plugs, or opening your tool box to get to a compression tester. It all made sense, and it only cost him a second set of converters after he cooked the first replacement. That is likely the site that made me comment to NOT run the engine for long periods of time with the misfire.
Any way, I liked the video and what it demonstrated that you could infer from some signals. I won't buy his stuff as I don't have enough use for it, but I really liked the demonstration and thought process. Sometimes people don't use their brain to realize what the symptoms are telling them, and this was a good demo.
tom