According to the information I was able to obtain, the correct Ford part number for the crankshaft trigger tone wheel for a 2002 E-350 equipped with a 6.8L V10 engine is XC3Z-12A227-AA.

To put your mind at ease, I obtained this information by searching on eBay for another 2002 E-350, copying and pasting the VIN information into fmcdealer.com OASIS, and then checking HvBom to obtain the correct part number specific to the VIN entered. I will assume yours will be identical.

This should hopefully explain the difference in the part number you were able to obtain through your search.

 

getting parts list ready for order tomorrow.
Got my timing set and timing cover gaskets in amazon, probably have to go to ford for trigger and crank bolt.
Trying to figure out if I should replace oil pump or not. Is it any easier to replace it now with front cover off or would it be just the same job to do later? I dont know if I need to drop a crossmember to remove pan or what, any ideas?

thanks



edit.... can anyone confirm this is the timing set I need?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

That set is the one listed for my vehicle on amazon and oreilys but on ebay it says it does not fit

 

That's good to hear that you have the ball rolling on getting your parts rounded up. As far as replacing the oil pump goes? There's only four bolts holding the oil pump in, excluding the two bolts that the oil pickup bolts to from the bottom of the pump. I'm fairly certain you could likely remove it without having to drop the oil pan if finesse is utilized. However, oil pumps aren't usually replaced unless the entire engine has been rebuilt and/or this engine suffers from low oil pressure. When you buy the crank pulley bolt, don't forget to buy the washer too.

I was going to caution you on NOT forgetting to install the crank trigger wheel when going back together, but since that part itself IS the main focus of your issue, I highly doubt you will forget to install it.

 

Lol, yeah if I can find the unicorn it will definitely get installed. I shot a local ford dealership an email requesting the trigger wheel and crank bolt and washer, hopefully hear back from them tomorrow.



I reread the attached timing component guide file and have some worries now since I never done timing on a mod motor before.


1. In the guide it shows the crank mark at 6 o clock and driver cam mark at 12 o clock.
When I set cam sensor over the sensor pad on cam sprocket......when I removed front cover it left me with crank mark at 7 o clock. Is it critical I set it to 6 before proceeding?

2. In the guide they used a crank locator tool to set crank position relevant to a dowel on the block, then they used the cam lock tools and cam adjuster tools. Are all these tools necessary?
If I dont lock the cams down and remove chains are they going to want to roll out of position? If so....will I need 2 cam holding tools? If cams are kept from moving I dont see why the crank possitioner tool and cam adjusting tools are needed solong as nothing moves and that all marks align to corresponding chain marks or am I missing something?

EDIT...... I think I may have answered this one with this vid At 3:25 in the vid he mentions if the cam moves a bit its not a big deal since you have all your marks. I dont plan on replacing sprockets so I think the tool is geared more for that if im not mistaken.

3.Forgot third question while writting #2 been a long day

4. anyone know torque spec on crankshaft pulley bolt and should I use locktite? (if I can even get the threads cleaned out well)

thanks again

 

In all the years I've been wrenching on Fords, and been into a 4.6/5.4/6.8 engine, I have used those cam and crank lock tools NONE of those times. Those tools are intended solely for keeping them locked into position in order to facilitate chain/guide/tensioner installation. In fact, I may even still have those tools sitting somewhere in my arsenal of tools, never used.

As long as you have the cam and crank sprockets with the chains installed in proper position RELATIVE TO EACH OTHER, it doesn't matter where they are at rest during the install process.

The only thing I'm going to say is, that video is of a 4.6L engine. 5.4 and 6.8 engines use two chain links to align to the cam sprockets as opposed to only one on the 4.6L engine. The links I coloured for you in one of your post pictures should clearly illustrate what I'm talking about.

As far as crankshaft pulley bolt torque spec goes, here it is straight from the Ford Workshop Manual:

Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt in four stages.
•Stage 1: Tighten to 90 Nm (66 lb-ft).
•Stage 2: Loosen 360 degrees.
•Stage 3: Tighten to 50Nm (37 lb-ft).
•Stage 4: Tighten an additional 85-90 degrees.

DO NOT USE LOCTITE ON THE THREADS.

 

Thanks! Your a great asset to the forum!

 

 

You too Tom! appreciate it

 

There you go. TWO people posting identical information should make it proof positive that no BS is being fed to you.

 

Lol.... .... forgot to ask..... when I put harmonic balancer back on, can I just press it back on with crank bolt?

 

ABSOLUTELY NOT. You could easily cross thread or strip the threads on either the bolt (not so important) or the crank (BIG TIME important) by doing that. In absence of the installer tool, you could use a block of wood as a suitable driver and a hammer to tap onto as far as possible, and then final tighten using the bolt.

 

wood and hammer I have. lol

Just left ford, ordered the trigger wheel and washer and they had the bolt in stock. $37 for the 3.

Also just ordered timing set, and gaskets on rockauto....another $225 Ontop of the $500 or so of parts I had already threw at it. Hopefully will be able to actually drive it soon.

 

Forgot to mention this....While i was under the van taking the power steering pump off i was checking the rubber lines to the oil filter housing and when i squeezed on the line it was very "crunchy". Only way to explain it is like squeezing a rubber hose with partially frozen water in it. Thats what it felt like.
I moved up and down both hoses and everywhere I squeezed it felt crunchy. I dont know if it was just the hoses or some kind of buildup in the hoses. Never ran into this before and wondering what it could be.

Trigger wheel was supposed to arrive at dealer yesterday but never heard from them. Maybe today. Chain kit should be here today as well.

EDIT.... Had a rockauto box waiting on me when I got home, went to ford and my other parts were in so should be tackling this -this weekend.

EDIT #2.... The coolant that came out was a amber color. Im assuming its old motorcraft gold. Advance auto only had the zertex g05 which is what I use in my crown vics. just want to make sure its safe to mix with whatever amber colored stuff is in there? Its a clear amber color, not a murky muddy color like stopleak was used. Putting new chains in as I type this. Will post pics to make sure everything is kosher before I button it up.

 

Ok.....couple questions.....


1..... I drained amber colored fluid out. I assume it was motorcraft gold but not sure. It wasnt hazy like stopleak but still a brownish clear color. Old ford gold coolant? Anyway....couldnt find the gold coolant so picked up 3 gallons of zerex g05 that ive had no problems with in my crown vics. Question.... will this be ok to mix with the unknown brown colored coolant? Ive drained the radiator so most of the coolant is out minus the gallon or so in the block. I know a proper flush is ideal but dont want to do all that yet untill i see the van running right then plan on a new radiator,waterpump,and flush.

2..... I got my new chains,guides,tensioners in. The aftermarket pass side cloyes guide uses a thicker metal insert than the stock guide so the top guide bolt seems too short. It might only grab by 4 or 5 threads and dont want to strip anything. Is this common? Do i need longer bolt? Why wasnt it included?
3....... Do the pics look ok? Am i good to go to button front cover on? Timing marks look to all line up

 

I believe the coolant you describe is the same as the one guys use for their 6.0L diesel, which calls for gold coolant. So you should be good to go with the coolant you got.

I've never used aftermarket parts on any of the engine work I've done, so I can't say I've ever ran into the difference you describe with the chain guide. I would be Leary of using a longer bolt. You don't want any parts hitting each other!!!

Looking at the pictures, looks like you are good to go. Although I would be more comfortable making that statement if you could provide a better picture of the passenger side cam sprocket timing mark aligned with the two marks. If it is aligned, it looks like you're ready to go back together. DON'T FORGET TO INSTALL THE CRANK TRIGGER WHEEL BEFORE YOU INSTALL THE FRONT COVER.