If you got the housing off then the pump is just more bolts to take off

 

Granted the pump bolts are not frozen its not hard at all. Let them soak with WD or trans fluid. For a couple days.

 

It can't be as easy as removing several bolts there's gotta be more to it? Like special tool to remove fan? Bolts hard to get at? Broken bolts? Getting a good seal on the new pump since its vertical?

 

Any advice before I try to tackle this job? Like what water pump to buy? And from where? Rtv? Fan clutch removal? Getting a good seal? Any think else need to be removed?

 

I'll admit, the fan can be a little beech to get off. There is a special fan clutch removal tool you can rent from parts stores. Even though renting is "free" the upfront cost is usually like 100 bucks for that tool (which you get back when you bring the tool back, at least most parts stores do it this way.)

I took the fan off with an air chisel though. I just hit the end of the nut (it screws on the water pump like any normal bolt out there, it's not a reverse threaded bolt) with my air chisel until it broke loose. I did mess the nut up pretty bad on the outside, but I got it off and it went back on perfectly fine!

Once the fan is off, there really isn't anything else tricky to get the water pump off.

 

How did you get the fan back on the new pump if you didn't use the tools and just an air chisel?

 

Replacing the water pump is the best idea, which I see you are doing.

 

It tightens itself while spinning, as for removal an air chisel works great if not avail, a long pick and a hammer would do just as good.

 

Think I'll go buy an air chisel , heat it up and punch it off and when I go to re install it I just spin it on hand tight?

 

My trick for fan removal is to take the belt off, clamp a vise grip on the lip on the back of the fan pulley, then use a large channel lock, it's a heck of a better way then destroying your fan nut with an air chisel..... turn the nut the same direction the fan turns normally. When reassembling start the fan nut onto new pulley and then spin the fan till tight, I prefer to use the channel lock again to make sure it's tight.

You also might need a 10mm deep well socket for the water pump bolts.

 

Thanks man yea I'm still up in the air weather I wanna try air chisel or the ford tools? Anyone know the exact size of that but? I have rear 28mm 24 and a few others online just don't wanna make 10 trips to the store. Also when placing the pump back on should the bolts be tightened in a cross pattern? Thanks in advance Kyle

 

I would tighten it up as much as possible. There have been a few cases on here when the engine was shut down the fan spun off and went through the radiator, not a good thing.

 

That's what I did for 2 of the 3 bolts on my 96 back when I was a broke college kid. Its still holding up.

Yikes, that makes for a bad day.
You can rent fan clutch wrenches at the FLAPS.

 

Replacing the actual pump is very straight forward. If you can get the fan off, you are mostly there. I just did one this morning. $150 or so for the pump (parts store) with new lower elbow. Comes with new o-ring/gasket at the block, too. Once fan is out of the way, it's just some bolts and surface prep away from going back on. Not sure penetrating oil would do any good as most of the bolts are long, way into the block. The issue you had at the housing is it's steel bolts in an alumin housing. The bolts that hold the pump on go into the block. I can't say it's impossible to break those bolts, it's just not very likely. We typically don't have an issue with those, even with all the corrosion we see here.

Good luck.

 

Right hand thread means just spin it off lefty lost my righty tightly while looking at the front of the truck right?