Ultraranger - I like the look of your brake lines coming off the MC. I have not seen those before. I also don't recognize the valve body below your MC.

 

If you don't think cast iron MC bores, wheel cylinder bores, cast iron caliper piston bores or the inside of steel brake tubing won't pit from rusting, don't change your brake fluid out for several years and then come back and check these items.

If the cast iron MC is filled correctly, the fluid is about 1/4-inch from the top. Other than the seal on the underside of the lid, air is also occupying this space.

The molecules of the brake fluid are too large to seep through the pores of the rubber seal on the MC lid or through the rubber jacketing of the flexible brake hoses but, moisture isn't. Its molecules are small enough to eventually penetrate these soft items. This is how moisture gets into the brake system (other than taking the lid off the MC) and is why the brake fluid should be regularly changed out for fresh fluid. This would be about every 18 to 24 months that the brake fluid should be changed.

 

Rust is an *oxidation* process. Water and iron can be in contact for millenia without rusting if there is no Oxygen.

This is for the silicone fluids recommended for aluminum MCs.
The problem with water in a brake system is that it is heavier than brake fluid. So it tends to flow down to the lowest point in the system. Right into the slave cylinders.
Then one hits the brakes hard enough that the fluid and the cylinder get above the boiling point of the water. It *can* boil or flash into steam. Which releases oxygen.
The other problem, not too much of one in Southern Arizona is freezing.
One doesn't usually have enough water in the system to cause expansion problems but I have heard of someone who claimed that the water froze his pucks in place.

But all one has to do is just maintain the brake system properly.

I don't remember ever having water in my hydraulic system and I never saw rust.
One of the benefits of living in the desert.

 

Thanks. The lines coming off the MC used to be a straight 60" stick of 3/16" brake tubing. I think I had about 8" of tubing left over, out of that 60" stick, after I made those two lines.

The brake valve is for an '84-'86 Ford F150/Bronco (E4TZ-2B257-B). It was an OEM/NOS item I bought off ebay and it was still in the Ford logo box when I got it.

 

Craiger - are you thinking about selling these parts as a package?

 

I didn't see it mentioned if CraigerF100 is running this setup with all-wheel drums or, if his truck has discs front/drums rear. I also didn't see it mentioned if the booster used in the example is a 7" diameter unit or, if it's an 8" booster.

If the brakes consists of all-wheel drums, you could get away with running a 7" diameter booster. If you're running discs on the front, a 7" booster is going to lead to disappointing results. For discs on the front, at minimum, you need an 8" diameter booster and a good 18"-20" Hg signal on the booster for it to operate at its maximum potential.

 

Hey bud, where did you get that brake line with the coiling around it? I would like to get some of that for mine as I am going to re-line my system and basically rebuild or replace items. I have front disc. The big dual piston Dayton's.

 

I got the Gravel Guard (also known as Spring Wrap or Armor Guard) through Classic Tube. It's coated steel but (for more money) you can get it in stainless steel too. The coated steel is part number AG1435OE (for 3/16" diameter brake tubing).

Standard sized SAE inverted flare brake fittings for 3/16" diameter tubing are 3/8"-24 (FYI metric 4.75mm brake tubing is also the same diameter as 3/16" tubing). 3/8"-24 fittings are available individually through parts stores.

You can also get new direct-connection flare nut line fittings in 7/16"-24, 1/2"-20 and 9/16"-18 through Classic Tube (eliminates the need for ugly line fitting port adapters). Parts stores generally do not carry these specialty sized fittings for 3/16" brake tubing.

Left to right: 9/16"-18 inverted flare fitting, 1/2"-20 and 7/16"-24.



The 7/16"-24 fitting is Classic Tube part number ST8006.

1/2"-20 is p/n ST8007.

9/16"-18 is p/n ST8010.

These are OEM type steel fittings. They are also available in stainless steel as well.

If you were running a 'modern' MC with metric bubble flare ports, where one port is an M10 x 1.0 and the other was an M12 x 1.0, the part number for the M10 X 1.0 fitting is ST8036. The M12 x 1.0 fitting is ST8040.

 

Lol yeah u could. If what have is plug and play ergo no modifications required. then use it, unless u spend a lot of $$$.

This way was me on a budget trying to get quality brakes that don't brake the bank. So possibly some modifications required. If the possible mods. Stated above don't scare u? Then maybe it might work a try. 👍

 

Yes

 

Yeah I feel ya, southern Mo here.
Yeah remand MC aren't what they used to be.

 

Not a bad idea
Lol the thought has crossed my mind. With the modifications already done and parts mated. But I've pondered how I'd do free shipping and if I'd have to warrenty it if at all. $200 plus shipping would be the price I'm sure. I'd make only $50-100 depending on how many affordable parts I can buy in one sitting.

 

Front disc rear drum
An 8" dual diaphragm

Ultraranger knows his stuff for sure. I'd trust any advice he gives. I personally haven't found any true evidence online supporting booster size or number of diaphragms working better or worse. Besides what's with in reason, you know common sense set ups.
Example:
Running a 7" single diaphragm booster on
A f350 or f600 4x4 dually crew cab you use for hauling and towing 8000lbs plus loads on the hwy... May not be smart lol

I went over kill on the booster just to play it safe.
Honestly, my opinion? A 7" dual diaphragm booster would be more then enough for our trucks. Especially what most of us use our trucks for today. Fun!

 

Thx for all the kinds words fellas

 

It's just a simple matter of physics when it comes to booster size and the brake type it'll be acuating. A 7" diameter booster doesn't have enough surface apply area to effectively support the application of disc brakes. --drums are self-energizing, discs aren't. Discs requires more force. At roughly 600 PSI line pressure on a drum brake, it'll be fully locked. At the same pressure on a disc brake, it'll only be about half applied.

The booster is just a force multiplier. If the surface area of its diaphragm(s) don't have enough area, the brakes will not be effective at doing what they need to do --stop your vehicle within a reasonable distance.