Correct. You just have to bump the bracket with a grinder, or you could shim it with a couple of flat washers and skip the grinder. Much easier than changing the bracket in my opinion.

Here's a link to when I did mine (and it's still running strong)
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...lternator.html

 

Grinding will make it fit. "Sometimes still requiring a washer or two. Just use the same thickness. Otherwise you "could" would skew the alignment. At worst you would have a premature belt ware issue in this nominal amount of deflection.


The larger case 6G is not all that much larger. But,


If you have "continual" issues with alternators (as I see many do here), consider adding an additional Bridge Rectifier. If you run snow plows and such, two additional rectifiers will almost eliminate alternator replacement. Using a ground from the case to the negative battery cable (at the battery) will also help maintain consistent voltage.


For the most part, a Ford Motorcraft type 6G series 140 high amp, large case alternator with external rectifier and voltage regulator will "almost" never fail.


You may replace a rectifier ($12) every five or so years. I've had the same (Regular Case) 140 AMP on my truck for 150,000 + miles with only two rectifiers which failed in a three rectifier bridge.


Another plus is that when I start it and the GP's are active, I get an immediate 13.1 Volts and 14.2 when they turn off. Most people only get 11.9 or 12 if they're lucky.


EDIT: Should mention I have changed the brushes, I think twice. Only about $8 and 15 minutes total. I don't recall if I replaced the slip ring or not. I did when I rebuilt the unit originally. But, not since..... I don't think.




https://alternatorstarterrebuildkits...oduct/6g7796g/