I have a 97 f250 PSD that I bought on Friday. Drove it up from Denver where I probably started it 5 times just fine. After arriving here to Granby, I parked it for the night. The next morning, I went to start it- It ran for about 5 minutes and then started to choke and eventually died. I tried three more times, and the amount of time between it staying on and dying became less and less until it would only turn over. I bought some starter fluid, and was able to get it to start for just a few seconds before it died. My mechanic friends went over to check it out and replaced the fuel filter because it was a mess. They still ran into the same problem I did. The fuel bowl is continuing to fill up when I crank the engine- so I think I have at least ruled out that the low-pressure stage of the fuel pump is working...could the high pressure part of the fuel pump be the issue? When I do try to start it, I am seeing some white smoke come from the turbo housing and a little out of the tail pipe.

I also checked the oil level, it needed two quarts- so I put that in. After that, I put jumper cables between my other car and the truck because I wanted to make sure it was getting enough juice...Every time I have tried starting it, I can hear the solenoids kicking on for the glow plugs, and I also checked all the fuses....Both tanks are full of diesel, and it's just sitting, which makes my heart hurt lol. I feel like I have tried almost all that is my power to do without taking things apart. Right now, I'm looking for some advice on what I should do.

Thanks,
Jon

 

First, Welcome to the Ford trucks OBS powerstroke forums! Are you getting a wait to start light when firs turning the key? If not unplug the fuel heater in the fuel bowl, and replace fuse # 22 in the engine compartment fuse panel, as that fuse powers the PCM along with the fuel heater. You can check the fuel pressure with a cheap, pencil type tire gauge. You should have 20 lbs. minimum while cranking the engine, 60-70 lbs while engine running.

 

The Wait To Start light is coming on...I also can hear the solenoid click on when I turn the key...so I don't think it's the glow plugs.

 

How much fuel in the tanks? The "shower head" pickup strainer on the intank fuel line has been known to rot off leaving you out of fuel while showing 1/8-1/4 on the gauge. Is the engine spinning over fast or can you count the revs while cranking? These trucks need to spin over fast, and need at least 10.5 volts, I think it is, to fire off.

 

Both tanks are full. Filled them up in town right after I got back to Granby from picking the truck up. It ran fine from there to my house. Coming up the mountain I had about 2/3rds of the front tank full. The rear was below the 1/4 mark.

I'll listen more closely tomorrow morning to how quickly it turns over. I had to fix the plug for the engine block heater today. I figure since it is colder up here in the mountains, I'll plug it in overnight to see if it'll start with a warmer core. I don't have high hopes, but it's worth a try- thank god I have my other car to drive while this is all happening...I posted my troubles on a local Facebook page and I'm also being advised to look into the HPOP and to change all the normal maintence things- oil, glow plugs, check the battery, transmission fluid, etc...regardless of whether that stuff actually helps, it'll hopefully shorten the list of possible causes of the no-start.

 

If your CPS (cam positioning sensor) is bad the truck won't start. It's the sensor down at the crank pully, front of the motor.

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Byb...1qRU1VVGc/view

Here you go... This should at least give you an attack plan.

 

DO NOT use starting fluid unless you want to blow off your intake and do some damage. Find the issue with the help above and address it. Oh, and...DO NOT use starting fluid!!

 

And just to add to what Byron said, DO NOT USE STARTING FLUID!

Have you seen a CEL at any time? If yes, check the codes. They will point you in the right direction. If not, turn the key to the 'on' position and let it sit for 2-3 minutes. The CEL should come on. If it doesn't, then you need fix the CEL and check for codes.

 

So- on Sunday, I decided to fix the engine block heater plug because it was missing a prong. Plugged it in overnight and like a miracle, she started right up in the morning. Wish I had done that sooner. It hasn't been below 30 at night, but nonetheless, plugging her in worked. The conclusion in this situation is that my truck is a bit of a princess- she likes to be kept plugged in up here at 8500 feet above sea level. Been working just fine since then.

 

You have a beautiful truck, btw. Can't wait to get mine performing and looking nice.

 

That is good that you got the truck to run! But It should start at 30 degrees with out being plugged in. I believe you have some bad glow plugs, or the relay isn't energizing the GPs. You stated that you could hear the relay clicking, but the contacts could be burned, and not letting current threw. Test the relay with a multimeter. One large post should have whatever the voltage the battery has. The other post should have no voltage with the key off, when you first turn the key to the run position, (for up to 2 minutes) the voltage should not be more than .5 volts less than the battery voltage. If so the relay is bad. If you find some bad glows, replace with Motorcraft/Beru glow plugs, as some can burn out after only 1 startup.

 

Thanks man! She has her flaws and leaks but I love that truck. Stick around here and the guys will get you going! Just do your homework and do the mods you want to do for what you want your truck to do.

 

Or worse... swell to the point that they get stuck in the head!

 

^^^^ +1 above; inop glow plugs are prime suspect. The other tell-tale indicator is that the starting fluid didn't go boom.