I don't think it's a truck engine much less original. It's a 428 from 1966.

 

The trucks exh manifold outlet has a different angle then the car engines unless the 428 exh manifolds are on it now.

Check the casting #s get one with same #'s on it.
Orich

 

2X Rich. If the installer of that 428 used car manifolds and custom bent pipes find one of those manifolds. If the installer reused the factory 360/390 then find one of those.
A 428 with logs on it's sides? Headers Dude.......just sayin'.

 

To be honest I don't really know how much uumph she has. The carb was FUBAR when I got her.

I had the compression tested and the guy told me that the numbers were really good. I don't remember the range but I know they were all w/in 5 lbs. of each other.


HERE'S A COUPLE OF PICS:





I took the pictures as if I was standing in front of the engine,

 

So, can anyone tell from the castings if these are truck or car manifolds?

 

T=TRUCK DO=1970 TE= TRUCK ENGINE
C8=1968 AE= AUTO ENGINE

Does this help One truck exh. & one car exh. manifold.

Orich

 

So the cracked one is a car manifold. Were all the car passenger side manifolds from 1968 the same shape regardless of the car type: Galaxy, Monterey, Fairlane?


Crap, the waters getting deeper....

BTW Thanks Orich!

 

It's the heat cycles that get you with a repair on a large crack like that. I have the same thing on mine. The cast iron crystallizes in a way that is very unfriendly to welding even with nickle rods. I've been through the same issue with wave solder pump columns. If it was a block side there would not be an issue but these things see fire. I'm going with some cheap headers from Summit.

 

I ran long tube header for 20 yrs then they got too thin in one area so removed them.
Could not believe that I now had so much room around the engine after removing the headers.

I found me a good pair of truck iron log had them shaved trued put them on with just RTV
those lasted a few yrs until I came across some coat Sanderson header.

But when I went back to the Iron logs manifolds I cut the inner fender wall to ease the installing and tightening the manifold bolts. It did let out a lot of engine manifold heat.
You can see some of the area where, I cut the fender wall other wise you would not be able to see the starter .

May be it's good or bad for the use of having it cut out letting them run cooler. I have both sides cut out like this.

My ex in laws had his 70 truck right side crack by the heat tube pick up for the cold starting.

Orich

 

Those cutouts are easier to do than hood lovers, and they might work just as good.

 

What if you were to grind out say an1/8 inch on each side of the crack, or less to get past the thin layer of crystalizing?

Then try a weld?

 

That means if I can't repair this one I'm probably going to have a hard time finding the right one.

 

Get the correct truck exh left side manifold and take it to a muffler shop fit it right.

The car ones will always be a pain in the neck if it ever breaks again.

Car exh manifold are not as heavier duty like the truck ones, that's what, I'd do
Hell cut the head pipe off and get a 12" piece of flex pipe exh pipe an put clamps on each end. You could leave it or drive to a shop for welding it. KISS

Orich

 

Since you're offering the suggestion, what do you think it will cost me to have the exhaust pipes altered to fit the truck manifold?

Just wondering if the price difference of doing that and just getting headers and doing the alteration on both would be that significantly different.

The exhaust system is in real good shape.

 

Where I go they'd charge 30-40bucks.
Just cut off have them use your flange & head pipe bent to fit then reweld it back on.
Just ask them what the cheapest they can do it for.
Orich