Alright, I have been busy but I managed to check some things out.
As far as I can tell mechanically everything is checking out. The parts all check so far I am working the electrical side of things next.

One question is about the breakout box. I don't have one but it seems that to get definitive answers I need one or take it to the dealer. They are the only ones I can find who has the capability to do what needs to be done. If I buy one, which one to purchase?
What brand? What model? Which is best to be looking at? I'm going to use this very little but I will use it very occasionally now and in the foreseeable future I will probably need it. I want a good one but not the best and one that is not too expensive but can do the job.

Plz chime in on this so that I have more options than just searching the net. I've been looking but ..... not real sure what to look for.

I will probably need the box as I do plan on building a hotrod out of a 50 's era truck. I do plan on using a 7.5 L EFI motor and possibly a 5 manual speed trans. Since this will most likely come from a junkyard. So.... need will most likely be therefkr the box. Couple of yrs off yet but plans are already in the works.
My goal is to have 75 to 85% of the vehicle on hand before I start this way it will be paid for by the time I get done building it.
Done this before it works well and don't have to put out so much money all at once.

Let me know so I can decide what way to go for the tool.

Thanks
Charlie

 

They turn up on eBay so you might check there. Not 100% on this, but I believe the 1995 and under models used a 60-pin box and the 1996 used 104-pin. I'm not sure if they are backwards compatible (an adapter?) or not.

Maybe someone else can confirm all of this for you.

 

You need a 60 pin breakout box. There really isn't much going on inside them, so I wouldn't worry too much about brand.

 

I had discovered that it was 60 pin but was just trying to find out if there is a difference in the boxes and if the differences make any significant impact on its usage.

I have bought some tools before and those differences can make a major impact on what u get and what supplemental tools are needed. Just trying to make good purchase and not have to buy more to get desired result. Which in this case is a good diagnostic tool without requiring additional purchases to get what I need.

I have been doing a lot of research lately and seems that in some cases the BWD brand may not work well as are placement EGR valve due to differences in position height of the EVP sensor plunger which may cause the 334 code I'm seeing. Has anyone seen/found this to be true?

In the research it seems that there is a quarter inch difference in height in the valves between the original Ford valves and BWD. I need to measure and see but the question remains will this difference create issues or does this not make a difference in performance? I understand there is preload on the sensor, but does the height difference in the valves create the high voltage code due to reduction of the resistance in the sensor?
It makes sense that it could. Lower resistance would create a higher voltage to PCM therefore throwing the code and might create the round Robin effect I'm seeing. The question is does it change that position enough to show the PCM a false signal so to speak that creates the code?
If I use this as a guide and I will measure the valves to see if there are differences. That leads me to what valve can I use for replacement? Standard? Air-tech? Who made the original valve? Clearly it was not Borg Warner as they make BWD. I may not be able to get the motorcraft as I'm at the 20 some year mark so that's why I ask those questions.
Let me know thoughts on these questions and any answers that someone may have

Thanks
Charlie

 

Maybe try a junkyard EVP?

 

Is it not available from Motorcraft?

I had issues with BWD on a coolant temperature sensor right out of the box. Seems to be a common thing with aftermarket sensors these days.

 

Not that I have found yet! My buddy at Ford got me the right part # for the EGR it's E8PZ-9H473-E. That's the correct one for my motor. He couldn't get it but gave me a parts place they use that I can order from.


Called Vintage parts in Wisconsin. I called and they have 112 of them in stock. They buy old "new" stock up as it goes ut of date. Price $123.95 plus shipping. I'm just checking to see if reasonable, but it is for sure a motorcraft part. Probably order on Monday

The more I think about the difference the more it makes sense. OP in one post I read had same issues I have and it resolved his problem. Worth a try anyway and parts I have are returnable so its worth the time to replace it with a true Ford part. I'm also gonna get the EVP from Ford. May take a few days but I've been trying to resolve this for two months now. Worth the wait. Will tell for sure of it works.

I don't know why I didn't think to check this sooner. I've dealt with this problem a few times before. Different vehicles but same story. Many times this part is/was made to accomodate many other parts that are very similar, but some vehicles cannot tolerate the similarity and need the right part(s) to Function properly.

We will see soon enough.

Thanks
Charlie

Still waiting on any thoughts or comments on this possible solution and the reasoning I'm using.
Really want to hear them.

 

Ian, I can get the EVP sensor from Ford. It's the valve I can't get. The valve is where the problem is the height of the diaphragm is higher than the OE VA!ve by close to 1/4 inch. I measured old valve and BWD valve.

Now gotta wait till l get the valve and see what happens. This company buys old stock from dealers and stockpiles them. Locate by part# and go from there. Gonna see if I can get cruise switches from them too.
Thanks
Charlie

 

Junkyards are always an option, IMO.

 

Hi all,
Well got the valve and sensor in and they are working as they should. Noticeable improvement. Still not fixed yet but it was part of the problem.
I also have worked on the secondary air injection system. I pulled the valve and hosing checked for clogging and blew air thru the valves to see if blocked. Pass side clear. Drivers side was resistant but cleared. May have a sticky valve but so far each time cleared since initial no problems.
Do have a question(s) on the AIRB AIRD valve ? ( Not sure what this is called). But it's the valve inline with the air pump and the secondary air check valves. In this system tho is it normally closed or open?
I am assuming closed till vaccumn is applied then open alallowing air to be pumped to engine and when closed to cat and thru the exhaust muffler in the engine bay by the vac canister.
If I apply vac to this valve what should happen?
I replaced the O2 sensor. Had to i damaged it pulling the old one.

I did run codes in KOER and got confusing results. First time I ran it I got
KOEO 111
CM 334
KOER 1
Thought I had it fixed. And started on the secondary air system. To check for any problems just in case and to try and find a small exhaust leak. It's not at the manifold.
I also found evidence of a small oil leak so wanted to fix that as well. After cleaning and clearing those valves and doing mirror check on head and valve cover. No leaks found yet all clean and clear.
I decided to check codes again to be sure. And see if I got exhaust leak corrected.
v
Cleared codes with scanner and reran tests
Results:
KOEO 111
CM 111
Great!
KOER 126, 173, 334, 538
Smoke from engine greatly reduced and different in color.
That's where I'm at.
Thanks
Charlie

 

538 is just because you didn't goose the throttle during the test. I'm pretty sure the 128 and 173 code are related.

Can you check the MAP frequency with the engine idling?

Also, I've forgotten - have you replaced the PCM yet?

 

Ian,
Honestly I think the 126, 173 and 334 are related. How I'm not sure.
I haven't checked the map yet. I'm looking for a PCV valve. It's harder to find in a motorcraft than I thought. I need to get the part # and see if I can find it. Holiday s!owed me down. My valve should be good but it is original so might be worn out inside it still rattles but as I have been working on this slowly getting better and better. It feels like I'm on right track.
Yes I replaced with a new PCM.
I'll check frequency when I work on it again. It is a new motorcraft one but I didn't check it since I put it in.
The secondary air seems to have something to do with this. I was thinking to pull battery cable and clear everything and drive it 10 or 20 miles and recheck codes. Time enough to heat everything up and see what happens. It can't hurt and with what ive done so far it seems to help (IMO), but right now progress is progress!
Any info on that valve? Think it's called the air bypass valve. I feel like it might have something to do with this. I'm probably wrong but somehow feels right. Is it normally closed or open?
I'll worry at this lime a dog with a bone till I get it right!!
Anyone else got info chime in cause this one has been a dilly !!
Oh yeah. I measured the valves (EGR), 3/16th of a difference in height. Motorcraft valve has less preload than the BWD brand. Hope that helps someone who might have a problem.

Thanks
Charlie

 

I don't know the default state of the valve, but you should just be able to apply vacuum to it and see if it changes state.

Have you acquired a breakout box yet?

 

Darn that would be helpful to know the default value. If it's not working that could skew my testing. But I'll keep digging on that maybe I can get an answer.

I haven't gotten the breakout box yet. Thought I might have had it solved with the EGR. I had talked with a longtime tech at local dealership and he thought I might have it too. Taught me another way to test integrity of an EGR tho.
So I waited on getting box. He thought I should too. But we were both wrong. Been really busy past couple of weeks. So I gotta refocus on that. Big problem lately has been getting the motorcraft parts. More and more they are going obsolete. In some cases I have spent a week just trying to find simple parts and then having to wait for shipping.
That and I have other vehicle to work on. I have to replace headlight gears on TA. Replace upper control arms on the Explorer. And a few other things to get done as well. Like removing 300 feet of over growth from fence line. I got to rebuild kennels and finish building a Koi pond. And about 10 other things that I can't get to cause the trucks down. Oh yeah and my monthly PMs I do for restaurants on their HVAC & refrigeration.

So I'll keep going till I get her running, but we're in a limp mode right now. Doing as much as I can to keep me caught up and not get too far behind.
As always anyone with info chime in let me know.

Thanks
Charlie

 

UPDATE!!!

CODE 334 GONE!!!!! YIHAW!!!

4 months and it's gone!! Took the replacement using Ford parts. But it's GONE! Now the not so good part the MAP sensor I have is not working used the pinpoint tests and repeated twice each time says replace sensor. I also tested the original same result. I did this to make sure that original was bad.

New part ordered. Should get this Wednesday. Hopefully the long road is over and we are on the short road to recovery. Hope to find this to be true!!

I'll update soon as I know.

Thanks to all who have helped and hope this helps anyone with similar issues!!

Thanks
Charlie