1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

cab removal questions

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  #16  
Old 04-07-2016, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by ktgovols
I mostly work alone. I did mine like this, which I copied off of some else's build thread on here. It took a while to get it level. If I had it to do over again, I'd probably take the doors off and maybe the windshield before I did it again.

Keith
Love this sight. I've pulled several cabs with my cherry picker but always with chains. The straps make it much easier to adjust the balance!
 
  #17  
Old 04-07-2016, 08:36 AM
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Love the Tennis ***** on the running board supports. Been there done that at shin level! I have a box of tennis ***** so that will happen on mine too


Originally Posted by ct50f1
Used the same approach to put it back on although I think there were only two of us when we re-assembled it.


 
  #18  
Old 04-07-2016, 10:31 AM
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Weighed my cab when I removed it. No glass, no doors 300#. I could not drop the steering column far enough, so I had to lift it higher then a reg. PU. Mine was a 750. and the column would have to be dropped down from the bottom. I had a hoist and chain block
 
  #19  
Old 04-07-2016, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by bjmayberry2
Love this sight. I've pulled several cabs with my cherry picker but always with chains. The straps make it much easier to adjust the balance!
Yeah, I used chains. Another thread was similar to this and when I saw the straps, I just shook my head and kicked myself to not doing that. It would have been so much easier....and I had to buy chain.
 
  #20  
Old 04-07-2016, 02:12 PM
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I used 2x4's, straps and a come-a-long hooked to a beam in my attic, worked pretty good.

 
  #21  
Old 04-07-2016, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by bhalemail
Love the Tennis ***** on the running board supports. Been there done that at shin level! I have a box of tennis ***** so that will happen on mine too
It's a idea I came up with when I was working on my Model "A". For the truck, I didn't have a box of tennis ***** lying around so I had visit the tennis courts at the high school and scrounge around in the bushes. It only took about ten minutes to find six that were useable..
 
  #22  
Old 04-08-2016, 03:28 AM
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the hoist beam and chainblock was key for me. Used a 4 way sling ( rope) and 2 x 4 four frame in the cab so the roof would not get distorted
 
  #23  
Old 04-11-2016, 06:34 PM
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Exclamation follow up Q

got the doghouse off...

so 2 more questions:

1) is it better to remove the rear cab mount bolt at the frame side or cab side? (for that bracket) or does it matter?

2) can i just drive the door hinge pins up/out or is it better to remove the hinges from the cab?

thanks!
 
  #24  
Old 04-11-2016, 07:27 PM
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Q2 ) Are you certain that the doors need to come off? Removing these beasts has tested the manhood of many an owner - none of whom recommended it to others.
 
  #25  
Old 04-11-2016, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by FortyNiner
Q2 ) Are you certain that the doors need to come off? Removing these beasts has tested the manhood of many an owner - none of whom recommended it to others.
yeah, one is already off (was missing)... it will make it easier (lighter) to remove the cab, and presumably also to deal with the door itself (regulator, lock, latch, etc.)

guess i can destroy the pin if necessary as i see new ones can be had for not too much $$.

the other option is remove the hinge from the cab, but the door fits well as-is, so would rather leave the hinge in place and not mess with trying to align it later.

guess i have a date with some PB blaster, hammer, chisel, drill, and punch tomorrow.
 
  #26  
Old 04-11-2016, 09:54 PM
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I had to buy beer and invite people over to get mine off. Jim I like your garage when you are done you need to hang some hay up on the hoist and leave it.
 
  #27  
Old 04-11-2016, 10:40 PM
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Here is what I use, One-Man Cab & Bed Lift - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network I have a bad back and normally work alone. It makes it very simple, safe and controllable.

Kevin
LFD
 
  #28  
Old 04-21-2016, 11:31 PM
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dang, you guys weren't kidding... this door hinge pin is not cooperating! of course it doesn't help that i took a grinder to remove the head, but think i ended up 'welding' the pin to the hinge after the getting thru the top.

trying to drill it out, but can't really get the drill close enough to get a straight shot. in hindsight, i thought i could drive the pin down after removing the head, but after looking here again and seeing those serrations, i think the pin needs to be driven up instead. D'OH!

try again this weekend.

in the meantime, a semi-related question to cab removal: i'm gonna need a new windshield (this one is broken) -- how much should i expect to pay?

thanks.
 
  #29  
Old 04-22-2016, 06:17 AM
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Your windshield will be around $120
1948-52 Ford F-100 Windshield,clear , 4852
Shipping will be probably $150.
I went to a swap meet and a company had windshields there so I saved the shipping.
If you can find a swap meet within a few hours drive, it will be worth heading that direction.
I called all the local glass shops and they could only get a 55 Fairlane windshield, it wouldn't hurt to call them for your 52 just in case.
Although, I just went through the ordering process and Classic Haulers didn't have extra shipping charges. Maybe I didn't get far enough along, but it looked like $9.99 shipping...that can't be right....
 
  #30  
Old 04-22-2016, 09:31 AM
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When I took the pins out of mine I used some heat and a punch from the bottom. The punch was pretty close to the same size as the pins. Drive it out while it's hot. Soak it with some of your favorite snake oil too. Hang in there, you can do it.
 


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