There's one head on the planet that is worse than e7s, you managed to find a set.

They're terrible.

 

Haha well back to the drawing board. I'll keep looking then. Thanks.

If I keep going at this rate I may just deck these and run 'em.

 

Milling a mile off the e7s, requiring the use of 93, will net a noticeable power bump combined with a nice and "crispy" throttle pedal. The gt40s will net an additional substantial increase, but if you can't find a set for cheap then you can settle for e7. Don't get me wrong, gt40s are much better than e7, but if you can accept the fact that your 302 will be a turd regardless of what heads you bolt on top, it might allow you to sleep better at night after choosing the dark e7 path.

 

Well this isn't a race truck or a big pulling truck. Primary use for this truck is a back up vehicle for my 17 year old son (a motorcycle is his primary vehicle and we just finished a rebuild on it). And pulling a 14' trailer with dirt bikes every other weekend.


I have yet to find gt40s's I've seen a bunch of gt40p's, but the people want $250 for them and they still need worked. While I'm not opposed to better heads I need to keep my budget at $800.


basic rebuild kit is $330. That leaves $470 for everything else.

Everything else =

• check and deck heads
• or new heads
• timing chain ($40)
• Cam set with lifters
• headers
• mufflers (getting rid of the glasspacks)

So that's not to say I won't have more money down the road for upgrades, just this is what I have now. I don't do credit so I won't get everything now.


My thoughts are to do all the engine internals now ie. the timing chain and cam then upgrade the heads and add headers later. Those are relatively easy bolt-ons. Compared to adding a cam in 6 months.


Then if the rest of the truck doesn't fall apart I'll work on upgrades.


That's just my thinking. However If I did come across a set of GT40S heads for the right price I'll jump.


Also what hone is recommended? I was going to go with a 4" 240 grit ball hone.

 

What cam specs would you recommend?

 

If staying flat tappet I have the 31-255-5 comp cam with stock E7s on my 88 and it does alright. Gt40s would be better however.


The 31-255-5 comp cam is also the only that I know of that is computer friendly.
Trav

 

How would getting rid of the EGR stuff affect the computer? Can I lose the smog
Pump and block everything off?

 

I'll probably keep all the EGR crap.


This is how it sits now.

 

What about heads from a '91 mustang? What would they be? Would they work?

 

Same heads e7's.

 

Just my luck.


Could I just get this? Put my intake on and rock it?


302 for sale


Am a hoping for too much? How much did the block's change?

 

Anybody know the size of the torx for that bolt in the middle of the throttle body? Dumb design.

 

Yep getting an overbore.

 

For the price of a rebuild, you might be able to find a decent running engine.

 

It seems to have good bones. I have a 1989 F-250 XLT (manual locks and windows, tilt steering, A/C, etc.) that needed a new engine, among a list of other things. I bought a junk truck with 60k on a Jasper rebuild for $350, swapped the 302 and installed a rebuilt Mazda 5spd. Counting purchase price, I'm still under $2500, which is $1000 under my stopping point. She's finally running, sitting, and driving right...like new.

I'd see if you can locate a running engine to swap out before considering a rebuild. It may save you some bucks in the long run.