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I think the rivets were installed cold and squeezed using huge hydraulic pressure. I had to remove and replace both of my front/front spring hangers, remove/reinstall both rear/front hangers after a machine shop rebuilt them, replaced one fractured cab mount, and reriveted damaged areas elsewhere on the frame. Marmon-Herringtons lived a hard life.
I think you are insane to attempt to remove the rear hangers just to pull the pins. Buy a tap and die set or find a machine shop to make pullers.
Here are the "Ys" discussed, Ford 59Y 5776. I think they are NLA. This NOS set will go under my '51 project. Carpenter and others sell the later TBAA 5776-A that will work. As I'm told they are slightly taller. Stu
yeah, i've decided against removing the hanger/bracket... unfortunately after i went ahead and ground the first rivet head off (fix that later). at least it was only one.
i sent an email to a friend with a machine shop asking about 1/8 NPT die. we'll see. one thing i don't understand though, i had to drive those rear pins *all* of the way out, including the very last part of the outer tab -- still smacking hard with BFH. i understand that the "socket" method would start to pull the pin out, but those pins are like 5" long. so what are people doing after the pin is out the first inch via the socket? presumably finding longer pipe spacers and repeating the process over and over and over?
Yup, I add big flat washer spacers that allow the pin to pull out fully. Stu
Edit -glad you only have one rivet to fix. To have better luck drilling start with a small bit to make a pilot hole then work toward bigger bits. Just don't snap off a bit in the hole 'cause then you're SOL. Stu
I emailed Chuck to see if he could weigh in on whether rivets were hot set and bucked, of cold set and squeezed. Below is his reply. Stu
Stu,
They were squeezed with huge hydraulic squeezers. I would think they would have enough pressure to do it cold, but I’m not positive on that part.
Chuck
went out and bought a grade-5, fine thread, 4" 7/16 bolt and a 1/8 NPT die. i'll cut the hex head off and thread the shank and see how this goes with a socket and a stack of washers.
*really* hoping this works, otherwise i'm removing the x-member this w/e.
Stu, You may be correct about the rivets being set cold. I seem to remember reading years ago that they were set hot, but in an assembly line process like Ford used, having hot rivets to set probably isn't the most practical. With enough hydraulic pressure they would probably be able to upset the rivet and form the head cold. Either way they were set, I do know that they are TIGHT in the holes and not easy to remove. It would be a lot better if the spring hangers were left riveted on than removing them and bolting them on. If they need to be bolted on, the holes really should be reamed and a grade 8 bolt used that has an unthreaded shank length close to the thickness of the frame and bracket combined.
Mark
Yeah, in a production environment it'd be much faster to set cold. I've had them where the holes of the mated pieces didn't line up and the rivet got jammed in anyway. No way I see that happening in a hot set and bucking operation. Stu
Attaboy! Good job. Gotta say, though, that pin doesn't look near as worn as most I've pulled. Speaks well of the lubrication given your truck by the prior owners. Stu
got it painted this morning and then took everything over to an old family friend who's been building motors/cars/racecars longer than i've been alive. i really wanted someone to look over my should as i put together my first motor, as i knew there would be little (but important) details/tricks that i wouldn't be able to get from a book.
super excited: got the bottom end put together this afternoon!
nothing major (working with nickels & dimes ), but little by little i'm still making progress. in a nutshell: engine is mostly put together (but will now sit on the stand for quite some time); picked up a Sterling 10.25 rear-end (traded for the 8.8 out of the donor chassis i scored primarily for the motor); new axle seal on one side; new shoes (twice -- if you saw my other thread(s), first 3" then proper 3.5"); new parking brake cables; new drums (wasn't planning on that expense, but for the best); spring packs disassembled, cleaned up, tossed every-other, and repainted; new custom u-bolts for 3.5" axle tube; bushings removed and new ones pressed in fronts (still need rears); front and rear axles painted to match frame.
whew!
may have found headers, need to find (cheap) dually wheels. i'd like to get axles back under the chassis before winter (realized today i need new u-bolts for front and a couple of spring pins). hopefully then i'll be able to mock-up and fab some motor mounts then figure tranny setup before the end of the year. then i'm thinking brake lines, master cylinder, front disc conversion, etc. once the new year rolls around.
05-27-2016, 10:56 AM
here goes nuthin'
motorvation!
i've been a slacker
), but little by little i'm still making progress. in a nutshell: engine is mostly put together (but will now sit on the stand for quite some time); picked up a Sterling 10.25 rear-end (traded for the 8.8 out of the donor chassis i scored primarily for the motor); new axle seal on one side; new shoes (twice -- if you saw my other thread(s), first 3" then proper 3.5"); new parking brake cables; new drums (wasn't planning on that expense, but for the best); spring packs disassembled, cleaned up, tossed every-other, and repainted; new custom u-bolts for 3.5" axle tube; bushings removed and new ones pressed in fronts (still need rears); front and rear axles painted to match frame.