Nice truck.... You've done a lot of work and it shows...Sounds great too....

 

Coming along nicely, so nice when these old trucks sound good!

 

Thank you gentleman...I forgot how much fun and expensive these builds can be but I'm trying to do a budget rebuild and I have to say I have only spent about $400 to redo the entire brake system, the exhaust system, the ignition system and full and extensive tune up and of course body and paint and clean. Probably $75 is tied up in cleaning products and tools..

 

UnderBody project
Materials: Wire brushes, paint remover, sanding blocks, paint
Time: 3 hours


So, spent a couple hours after work today under the truck and started the long task of removing rust. Started in the front end in the front wheel wells. it was a ton of surface rust and grime. Took some wire brushes of differant strength, wire sanding blocks and finally sanding paper mixed in with degreaser and cleaners, etc.. Hit it all up with rustoleum stop rust glossy black/matt finish black/fire hydrant red paint


This work was pretty tough on my back as i was laying on my back and side the entire time. Truck has plenty of clearance to get under the body and do work but it was def awkward. Knocked off/sanded off about 10 lbs of rust and grime. Entire driveawy was a hot mess of rust/oil/grime and cleaners all mixed together with water..lol Had to call it quits when i ran out of paint. 8 cans of assorted paint just for the little i got done. The metal is so pourous after sanding down.
Got both front wheel wells done, the entire length of passenger frame rail and got the gas tank done. i need to invest in a creeper for sure (this job is going to take months to hit entire bottom of this extended cab truck)
here are some before and after shots.
Going to bhit everything up with a second coat tonight in the garage and then hit up driver side tomorrow and rear wheel wells.

 

Nice looking ride and nice work cleaning it up to look even nicer.
Replace your door striker posts(about $20 for both sides) as the plastic sleeve seems to be missing(common issue) from the one on your first post.
New striker posts make a WORLD of difference in closing effort, wind noise and rattle reduction when running down the road.
Tbruz

 

Thank you sir, I cleaned, adjusted and reassembled all the door mechanics over the weekend. I never knew there were supposed to be plastic sleeves for the strikers..haha.. The more you know.

 

Bought this today from summit. The guy was super helpful and new his stuff. Asked what the truck was going to be for, application, future plans, work done to the engine and on and on. He said I could even call if I had issues installing. Told me what to expect for trouble issues. Ordered a 1" adaptor plate just in case of clearance issues. It comes with an electronic choke and I opted for kit to install.Edelbrock Performer Intake Manifold and Carburetor Kits 2031 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

 

Continued on with my under chasis rust removal and paint
Got the rear wheel wells done and drivers side long frame rail.
Second go round was easier than 1st side.
Going to put on second goat tomorrow evening.


Also cleaned up door hand pulls. They were incredably filthy with grime and grease and paint where PO had painted the door panels (with wrong kind of paint). Need to remove door panels and sand and repaint with plasti-dip paint..

 

here are the arm rests for the doors
Bough a set of little wire brushes (metal, nylon, etc..) from harbor freight for $5 for a pack of 8 assorted brushes. Hit them up with some meguires leather polish and looks a million times better. Going to let second spray soak for about an hour. Steill need to pull door panels and sand old paint off and spray with plasti-dip color. PO had sprayed with regular paint for metal and wood

 

Talked to my buddy who is a machinist and works on hot rods (its good to have a friend like this..lol). Going to take truck over to his shop saturday and take off heads for him to check them out and do some work (port, polish, hone and flow the heads). Hes going to do all the work for $100 and a 6 pack. Once thats assembled and done saturday hes going to help me put on the hopoker headers. Once intake/carb comes, going to tackle that, take it over to him and see what kind of numbers we get on his dyno and then go from there. He suggests new guides, rods and valves (we will know more once we take heads off. Next will be crank, cam and bottom end work. The rear main seal needs to be replaced anyways.

 

Anxious to see what kind of numbers it produces.

 

My tech(Bobby) thinks after headers, intake, carb, cistom tune and head work, that we will be in the (275-300 range). That's just an educated guess. We talked some tonight and he wants to help bring this motor alive. He has drafted a build which includes a .30 bore, a crane cam, a guerilla gas system, new pan and oil pick up, new crank and a 50 shot of nos. He said he can order all the parts for under 1k and he will charge me ciggarette and beer money to do the work. His blueprint build is shooting for 400-425hp. He has done a lot of the 289 and 302 motors for t bucket hot rods that can push 500 safely. He says he already has a tranny lined up for me as well. Probably start that long journey in the summer as it means substantial down time.

 

my headers were waiting for me at doorstep when i got home today. Went ahead and stripped them of shiny "shipping" paint. What a damn mess that was. Hit them up with two coats of high temp exhaust paint. If i get a wild hair i might start on them tonight.
Worked on passenfer side underframe, scraped and sanded another 5lbs of rust off and pressure washed (2 hours). Drivers side tomorrow night and then paint following night.

 

This is a before sound after all work and tune i have done so far before i go down the road of all the "upgrades". Funny it set off my cars alarm outside..lol

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...1859322091.mp4

 

Sounds good. A gain of 275 -300hp would be impressive.