Looks suspiciously far in, as you say. The stock nut (AFAIK) is welded closed on the end, so you can't really see. When you say you "turned the screw tight", it shouldn't necessarily be "tight", it is set to limit end play to spec. Too tight and it will just wear faster.

 

Thanks Ross

I went back and used my hand on the sector instead of the pitman arm to check for end play. I backed the screw all the way out and then turned it in until the play was gone by hand feel. Then put star and nut on. Now it's just proud of the nut.

 

Finishing up and getting ready to install my rebuilt box and tree shifter. Picked up some used shift rods and restored them to good condition. Working on my shift grommets last.....any tips on how to peen the sleeve on the left so that it looks like the NOS piece on the right?

 

If you have a small ball pein hammer, put the ball on the rivet and slowly hit the ball pein with a light hammer. Just watch it, if it starts to go bad, stop.

 

Not the prettiest peen, but I guess it will work and fits nicely on the shift pin

 

If they don't work out, you can replace them with these. I did on the trans end of the rods and they work great. They'll never wear out. They're cheap, too!

 

I could never get worm and roller mesh up the right preload and could feel the sector bushing play in the pitman arm. So I decided to do a more thorough rebuild. Pressed the sector bushings out of the housing. Split the worm gear with a cut and then chisel. Froze the shaft all day and then heated the new worm in the oven for a little while. I went on nicely with a few whacks on a piece of oak. Waiting on new sector bushings.

 

Pressed new sector bushings in tonight, honed lightly with brake hone to even out slit, then reamed to sector size, about 1.125ish. Sector slides in like butter with no play or wiggle at all. I think I had several 000's play in the bushings I had.

Used the harbor freight adjustable readers, fine from my point of view.

Will go further tomorrow on setup.

Jonathan

 

Dear sir,

I wanted to give you a note of appreciation for your steering rebuild post.
I also have a question, in one of your first pictures you have your parts laid out on the bench and your drain plug looks similar to mine, it says HEAVY GEAR OIL on the end and there is a small hole in the center with a small cotter pin installed and slightly spread open inside the plug. Is yours like this, and if so, does it leak from that location?
I am probably going to use the 900W oil as the book says (I am in Michigan and it gets too cold here for just grease)
Thanks for your time,
Doc (Michael)

 

I don't think it leaks. I started using corn head grease which helps with the leaky areas.

JB

 

That's the fill plug. Being so close to the exhaust, the gearbox needs to breathe.

Cornhead grease is very loose even in subfreezing conditions. The manual calls for 90W, if the grease worries you try the SAE 140 StaLube the trans uses.

 

OK, That makes more sense! I got the truck and the gearbox/steering column was missing. I get it now, although with the cap-like screw over the adjuster it makes it look interesting to adjust....
I have to make a bar stock punch now for that upper race!

Doc

 

Is the race really bad? Unless water gets in there, the bearings usually don't wear that much, and their preload is easily adjusted by changing shims in the lower cover.

 

Bad enough and I have made it a habit to change races with bearings ( and I am a cheap guy!) It had some significant wear patterns. It did not have the fine cracks and obvious heat issues as the bottom race.
I made my tool to remove the race out of a 10" long piece of 1/4" square stock.
It worked a breeze!

Doc

PS waiting for parts is a drag!

 

Help!
Big question! My parts arrived today and I was so excited to install the parts. All of the parts are too small!
I did not have an old column/gearbox and bought this one of eBay. Is it possible that I have a gearbox column out of a larger model truck and everything is just larger?

Thanks,

Doc