Brief History. Had been running on front tank for past couple of years as rear tank was leaking bad. Front tank pump failed this winter and I decided to replace the rear tank at this time as that pump was still working. Approx 2 weeks after replacement the truck started to randomly stall. Sometimes the truck would stall while operating, usually plowing, never on the road, or would not start after turning off. Usually letting it sit for a period of time would result in it starting again and running fine. Today it stalled again while plowing. Checked codes and it showed KOEO 211, 542 and 172 and same for CM. I have an Exhaust Manifold leak so I am chalking up 172 to that. I figured the truck will start again so I cleared the codes by pulling the negative cable for about 20 minutes. Checked connections at the PIP, cap, and plugs and cleaned up what I thought was slight corrosion at the PIP connection and reconnected. Truck started right up smoothly but only idled for about 15 seconds then shuts down. Pulled codes 211 and 542 in CM only this time. Will restart with no problems but then again shuts down after about 15 seconds. This has happened a good handful of times. Starts right up, idles smooth, then shuts down. Pulled codes after every start up and still they only show in CM. I haven't checked fuel pressure yet but will have a fuel pressure tester later this evening or tomorrow. I assume that would be a good first step to take. If I have good fuel pressure then I am leading towards a bad PIP. If this is the case then I will more than likely replace the distributor with a new one. But first I would like some further advice on what to trouble shoot if there is anything else to look at before I spend some money on a new distributor. Can this be behavior of a bad PIP? Also on my truck would it have a cast iron gear or a steel gear on the distributor. I am thinking cast iron from what I have read? Thanks for your time.

 

An extra note. It appears that the longer I let the truck sit turned off, the longer it will idle when I start it. Just FYI.

 

I'd suspect a failing PIP or TFI module (since the PIP signal goes through the TFI module). I'd try getting the TFI module tested at a parts store.

 

Thanks Lead Head. Will do and keep you posted.

 

I believe this is an issue with a component overheating. Possibly the Ignition Module. Went out this morning and the truck started right up idling smoothly. Let it run for about 15 minutes then got in it and plowed for about an hour, pushing about 10 inches of snow 1/2 acre area. Temp was crispy this a.m., maybe 10 degrees. Towards the end of the job, noticed some slight misses from the engine. Finished up and pulled the Ignition Module. Noticed a lot of corrosion and build up of dry stuff, dirt, debris, etc. No grease at all as it is my understanding there should be a layer of grease between the heat sink and fender wall? The Ignition module is a Motorcraft (Black) and am not sure it is original or not. Anyway, will be getting it tested here shortly. Will keep you posted on the results.

 

You have the correct Ignition Control Module. The black CCD-style ICMs rarely go bad, but with missing thermal compound you may have found your culprit.

I would still put money down on a bad PIP, but the overheating ICM is a very strong contender IMHO.

 

Thanks for the input Randy. I had the Ignition Control Module tested at Auto Zone and it showed as good. On the advice of mechanic I picked up a ignition coil and installed that. He pretty much said the same thing you did....that style ICM rarely goes bad. Went ahead and installed existing ICM and new ignition coil (Carquest), hooked battery back up and started the truck, no problem. Headed down the road to pick up some beverage and CEL came on rather quick so I turned around to check the codes thrown. Didn't throw the above codes but threw new codes of 621 Shift solenoid #1 circuit fault and 332 Insufficient egr flow detected. Will take a look tomorrow as I may have leaned on something when replacing the ignition coil as I had to climb onto the engine to do that. I will be heading out to see if any other codes might have showed up after putting 5 or 6 miles on it. It still felt like there was a very small amount of engine running rough. I am in need of a new exhaust system and exhaust manifold and/or gasket. Not sure if that could be what I am hearing. Will keep you posted.

 

Oh by the way CEL 621 KOEO and 332 is CM. While checking Vac lines tonight broke the green line that ties into the EGR valve. Crispy little buggers. Other than that all the vac lines appear to be in good shape. Anyway found some good info on that 332 code and not much on 621. So any advice on how to tackle 621 is appreciated.

 

Check the connector on the solenoid pack. Pull it off and look for signs of moisture. You have the re-designed version already but anything is possible.

Make sure you put a good layer of thermal compound on that ICM when you re-installed it.

Correct definition for Code 332" EGR valve opening not detected.

If the green hose broke, the rest are not far behind. Replace all of the vacuum lines.

 

Thanks for the advice and correct definiton of 332. Safe to say in regards to the EGR the issue could be vacuum concern, stuck valve, or bad sensor, or maybe all of the above. Will keep posted.

 

The broken green vacuum line will set the 332 code in CM for 60 start-ups or until the codes are cleared.

By the way the PIP signal train does go to the ICM also but does NOT go through the ICM on its way to the PCM.

The 211 code is an CM code only and does not show up in KOEO or KOER self-test and will stay in CM also for 60 start-ups or until the codes are cleared. 90% of the time the 211 code is a bad PIP sensor.

 

Thanks for that info Subford. That is good to know. In anticipation of showing the code 211 again I have placed two different distributors on hold, with cast iron gear and steel gear. Which one would I have without pulling the distributor to verify. From what I have read I believe it is a cast iron gear?

 

If is flat tappet engine, then the OEM gear is cast iron. If it's a roller cam motor, then it gets a steel gear.

In 1996 It should be a roller engine so it should be the steel gear.

 

The OP previously stated they removed the battery negative cable thereby clearing the codes and it returned. I did not go down the path of Code 211 happening sometime further in the past.

 

Thanks subford. I also verified by calling Ford Dealership with VIN. My understanding after 94 is roller cam engine? That issue is for later attention if needed. Now have to get on egr and tranny code.