My truck loves to act like it's out of gas and stall out "randomly". I'm sure there's a pattern to it, but I haven't figured out what it is. It only happens when it's idling/low rpm's. If I keep the rpm's up it doesn't stall. After it stalls it has to sit for a while before it'll start again. Yesterday it died so I grabbed a quick bite to eat and when I got back it was good again.

I have the stock carter feedback carb. First possible problem, I'm sure all the various hoses are supposed to do something useful, but I have two that aren't hooked up to anything.

First this red hose goes nowhere and the end is open to the air:



Next, underneath the carb there is this manifold thing with all the hoses coming off it. The first hose (see arrow) also goes nowhere, and the end has what looks like a bolt in it to block it off. You can see the end with the bolt in it in the pic above, it's the hose between my finger and my thumb:



this one may not be an issue, but (the PVC valve?) that sits in the back of the valve cover is just sitting in the hole loosely.



Can anyone tell me what these things are and if they may be contributing to my stalling out issues?

 

The red tube is supposed to go to a shroud covering the exhaust manifold below which originally also had a return tube, that system provided for filtered air being warmed at the exhaust and fed back to the automatic choke housing to warm it up. It by itself being in the condition it's in won't cause your problems.

That vacuum-distribution manifold, yes, that's exactly what that is; if the hose going nowhere is plugged then that is not a cause for concern as the bolt will prevent a vacuum leak.

The third thing is your PCV valve, and a major leak there can very well cause running problems (due to a huge vacuum leak) but the leak would need to be pretty significant.

Pulling the codes from the computer might point you at stuff to look at.

 

I would say #1 & 2 are right but 3 only part of.
Yes can cause a vac leak and a running problems BUT if it stalls you should be able to restart it with out needing to wait.


Yes pull codes to see if it will give you more information but when it happens again you need to do a little checking.
Is the carb getting fuel and do you have spark when trying to restart after a stall? This will also tell you with codes what path you need to follow.


With it stalling and needing to wait before restart sound like a bad IGN box/no spark. It cools off then you can restart motor.
Dave ----

 

I didn't pick up on the wait-to-restart aspect, thanks for paying attention, Fuzzy. IMO the ignition module (ICM) on the side of the distributor should be tested....

 

Ok, thanks guys. I have a code reader, but its OBD2. I don't have the right connector to read this. I'll take it up to my local chain auto store and see if they can get the codes for me and report back.

 

ok, plan B. Everyone acted like I was asking them to help me with an Amish barn raising when I asked them if they could read OBD1 codes, so I ordered this:


I figured it wouldn't be a bad thing to have around anyway since I plan on keeping this truck if I don't get frustrated and accidentally set it on fire while broke down on the side of the road.

 

Heh...

BTW you can pull your codes at home using a test light, instructions all over the 'net for that.

But you need to be aware there are THREE sets of codes:

KOEO key-on, engine-off

CM continuous memory, what it remembers of the previous N driving cycles; these get displayed shortly after the KOEO test

KOER key-on engine running (needs to be warmed up for this) tells you what's detected right then and there


So, when you pull your codes, write down from where they came and the order in which they were presented to you, that stuff is important here.

 

To anyone who already has, or is interested in, that OBDI Ford Code Reader:

That is an excellent code reader. Unless you also have the insanely expensive 6 foot $49 extension cable, one series of tests with that reader requires one person to sit at the driver's seat while someone else is under the hood reading the codes. You would be wise to quickly snap one up here for $22.

Equus Products 3149 Ford Code Reader Extension Cable for EPI3145 | eBay

.

 

I have never used one of these code readers but this is likely a very good suggestion! Correctly reading OBD1 codes is an interactive process in the KOER test; depending on configuration, it's going to prompt you to do one or more of the following:

- Turn the steering wheel half a turn
- Step on the brake pedal
- Goose (floor & release) the accelerator pedal

If you don't do those tests when prompted, it's gonna generate codes pertaining to those related devices.

 

Question: If you have no code reader and the local auto parts store cant, truck too old, is there a way to see what the computer has to say with blinking dash lights?


Say turn the key on/off 3 time stopping at on and the lights will blink codes.
Do the same this time starting motor and lights will blink?
Dave ----

 

Of course there is. I used to provide a link to fordfuelinjection.com but that site ultimately closed down and I can't offhand remember the other site I would sometimes link to - rangerstation or some such.

It's not as simple as sitting inside and turning the key, you need to get under the hood and jump some wires at the OBD1 diagnostic connector. Cars/trucks that have a CEL are easier but that light didn't come about until, um, 1988 or so... I *imagine* Ford would have used the Emissions light in the top-left corner for that but have never seen it in action myself and so can't confirm that.

But you can use a test light at the underhood connector and count blinkenlights there... but ya have to pay attention to what it's telling you and when, and know how to count.... but it can be done pretty easily...

 

Was this the one, Chris? Ford Ranger - Testing EEC-IV Equipped Engines

 

So the code reader came in today and I followed the directions for the KOEO test and... nothing. It just shows 000. Then I tried the KOER test... same. No codes shown. Just 000. Hooking up the tester is pretty idiot proof. Even I couldn't mess that part up. I called the tech support and the guy walked me through it and then said I'd have to find another OBD1 type ford to try the unit on to see if it was my truck or the tester.

 

Yeppers!!! It is therangerstation not rangerstation and I can never remember that....

 

Or use the manual test light (or analog VOM) method and see if you can get something that way.