Need help diagnosing brake problem...master cyl?
#1
Need help diagnosing brake problem...master cyl?
1've got a 2002 4x4, with manual locking hubs and ABS.
couple weeks ago, the truck received new hubs, ball joints, manual lockers, seals, front rotors, front calipers, front brake lines and new front ABS lines. mostly OEM parts, all OEM bake parts
i read about the caliper pins, i bought the purple permatex brake grease and lubed the caliper pins, they worked fine when installed.
this morning heading to work i had the ABS light come on, as soon as i parked the truck i touched each front caliper and the passenger side was really really hot and i believe it is rubbing while driving.
the reason why i had to repair the front end was bad ball joints and bearing, and the passenger side caliper had grinded the pad off and was grinding the on the rotor, the ABS light came on too, but a bit too late to save the rotor/pads.
so after new rotors, pads and calipers i have the same brake problem.
would this be a symptom of a bad master cylinder?....or the the power brake system.....im not sure how it makes vacuum/power brakes...vacuum booster??....vacuum something...what create the power brakes
currently at work, dont have access to my AE until later tonight.....and could AE show a bad master or a bad brake vacuum component?
any help would be appreciated
couple weeks ago, the truck received new hubs, ball joints, manual lockers, seals, front rotors, front calipers, front brake lines and new front ABS lines. mostly OEM parts, all OEM bake parts
i read about the caliper pins, i bought the purple permatex brake grease and lubed the caliper pins, they worked fine when installed.
this morning heading to work i had the ABS light come on, as soon as i parked the truck i touched each front caliper and the passenger side was really really hot and i believe it is rubbing while driving.
the reason why i had to repair the front end was bad ball joints and bearing, and the passenger side caliper had grinded the pad off and was grinding the on the rotor, the ABS light came on too, but a bit too late to save the rotor/pads.
so after new rotors, pads and calipers i have the same brake problem.
would this be a symptom of a bad master cylinder?....or the the power brake system.....im not sure how it makes vacuum/power brakes...vacuum booster??....vacuum something...what create the power brakes
currently at work, dont have access to my AE until later tonight.....and could AE show a bad master or a bad brake vacuum component?
any help would be appreciated
#2
Did you replace the rubber brake lines that go to the front calipers? I ask because I had a problem like you did and on the second time around I replaced both front calipers & mounting brackets and used the purple permatex both times still the same problem!!!
Third time around thanks to someone here on FTE I changed the rubber brake lines and I haven't had a problem for about 20k.
If I recall correctly it had something to do with the rubber brake line inner collapsing. So when you put your foot on the brake pedal fuild would go in but won't come out and still hold some pressure. I think that was the deal??
But I never had a ABS light come on. Is the ABS light still on? If so pulling a code could help point you in the right direction.
Third time around thanks to someone here on FTE I changed the rubber brake lines and I haven't had a problem for about 20k.
If I recall correctly it had something to do with the rubber brake line inner collapsing. So when you put your foot on the brake pedal fuild would go in but won't come out and still hold some pressure. I think that was the deal??
But I never had a ABS light come on. Is the ABS light still on? If so pulling a code could help point you in the right direction.
#3
ya i changed both front brake lines, i know what you're saying about old lines.
just drove it at lunch, the light did not come on. i checked/touched the brake caliper and rotor, both were the same temp.....so im thinking no drag this time.
so it seams its an intermittent light/issue, new front brakes; caliper, brake lines, rotors, pads, abs lines and hubs are new.
BUT....when i was sitting at a light, the truck felt like it wanted to creep forward, even though i had firm pressure on the brake peddle...??
not sure if that indicates a master cylinder or the hydro booster thing.....
looked at the master, and i guess it has a hydrobooster? to make power brakes??.....the power steering pump is connected to the brake booster....thing.....i hope a hydro booster is the correct name for it
do those boosters go out?....what are the symptoms when one goes out?
hope i can get time tonight to scan it
just drove it at lunch, the light did not come on. i checked/touched the brake caliper and rotor, both were the same temp.....so im thinking no drag this time.
so it seams its an intermittent light/issue, new front brakes; caliper, brake lines, rotors, pads, abs lines and hubs are new.
BUT....when i was sitting at a light, the truck felt like it wanted to creep forward, even though i had firm pressure on the brake peddle...??
not sure if that indicates a master cylinder or the hydro booster thing.....
looked at the master, and i guess it has a hydrobooster? to make power brakes??.....the power steering pump is connected to the brake booster....thing.....i hope a hydro booster is the correct name for it
do those boosters go out?....what are the symptoms when one goes out?
hope i can get time tonight to scan it
#4
There is a block attached to the abs system near the pump. Lines go from booster to this block, then splits to back and front. Inside there is a piston that must be centred to provide proper brake pressures to each wheel. If at any time during your install, the brake fluid went dry and drained passed that block. As if you cut a line and just let it all drain out. Then the piston will slide to one side, and all the pressure will be messed up either front or rear, depending on which way it went. I'm guessing you let the front side drain down so the piston slid over and is messing with the front brake abs system and braking power, hence the creep forward at a light. There is a bleed nipple to adjust the piston if you drain the system. Cant remember the procedure, but its in a Haynes manual.
#6
There is a block attached to the abs system near the pump. Lines go from booster to this block, then splits to back and front. Inside there is a piston that must be centred to provide proper brake pressures to each wheel. If at any time during your install, the brake fluid went dry and drained passed that block. As if you cut a line and just let it all drain out. Then the piston will slide to one side, and all the pressure will be messed up either front or rear, depending on which way it went. I'm guessing you let the front side drain down so the piston slid over and is messing with the front brake abs system and braking power, hence the creep forward at a light. There is a bleed nipple to adjust the piston if you drain the system. Cant remember the procedure, but its in a Haynes manual.
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earnhardtracer38
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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03-02-2007 07:16 PM