You mean a football field? That's sick, I mean cool! No, I mean sick literary! LOL

 

I'm not worried about adjusting it. It should be good since it is new but easy enough to check. I adjusted the last one and it did not help. turn till it is tight and back off 1/2 turn right?
football field is about correct. I need turning breaks for this thing.

 

That or crab steering!

 

Or slap a d60 front end on the rear and have rear steer

 

Well I changed out the seal on the turbo and it seems to be working better. I have tried to pressure it all up but I am having a hard time doing it. I get it to 10 lbs but it leaks out. I can't find the leak. I stopped the ones I could find. I cant get a good volume of air through the tire valve. I'm going to pull the inside of the valve out and try that. Would the engine leak air? I know it is fairly tight but perhaps a valve is slightly open or it could be a bad valve seat or rings too. Who knows. Does the system need to be air tight or? I will take it for a test run again. if it boost up higher I'm closer at least.

 

OK new problem. My fuel gauge was working fine and i switched the tanks to the rear and it went to over full like it was not getting a signal. when i switched it back it did not return to where it was. How do I know if the tanks are switching anyway? I guess fill them both up and see what goes down.

 

With the key in the run position, you should hear a faint zipping sound from the fuel selector when you change tanks. You might want to check the fuse #6, (15 amp) in the in cab fuse panel. That is the fuse for the fuel selector valve, which also switches the fuel gauge to read which tank the valve is pulling fuel from.

 

Yes, the engine will "leak air". As you said, if a valve is open or even past the rings to some extent. Don't use a lot of pressure, and try replacing the valve stem on your tester with a male quick connect for your air hose. That way you can put your regulator on the line, hook it right up to the tester and then slowly open the regulator to build the desired pressure. Look for leaks at all the plumbing connections and around the intake plenums themselves where they bolt to the heads (that's a common leak point). Here's a pic of what I came up with.





For the selector valve, with the truck off and the ignition on, you should be able to hear it "click" when it changes tanks from one to the other. It's possible that it has something stuck in it and it isn't able to change. If that's the case you'll have to disconnect all the lines and blow it out with compressed air or remove it for cleaning. Continuing to flip the switch with the valve stuck will just burn up the the selector valve (ask me how I know....). It's also a possibility that the line between the chassis and the sending unit on the tank is loose or poorly connected and that's the reason for the gauge acting funky. Hopefully that's the issue, but I wouldn't be surprised if something got broken loose in the tanks or lines and has lodged itself in the selector valve. This exact thing happened to me after I removed both tanks for painting when I redid my frame. Ended up costing me a selector valve because I kept fiddling with it instead of just blowing out the lines like I should have in the first place...

 

Yah I will likely be pulling it and cleaning it. I'm know the stuff worked before as I tested it. Well the sending units that is. I did not hear a click. The tanks looked clean when I removed them but never know. I replaced them with new larger tanks. Guess I should have tested it then.

 

Well The fuel thingie is fried. I see replacements are 400.00!!!!!! or no names are 60 to 80. decisions decisions. I don't know if the fuel lines will lock on the no names.

 

Junk yard parts...

 

I was looking online but I don't see it offered at the junk yards I guess I have to call them.

 

I just replaced mine as it was fried and stuck in the middle on the supply side and made my truck stall. I could'nt get it to move either way. I found an OEM valve on Amazon for just under $300 then I applied for the Amazon credit card and got a $50 Amazon gift card. Ended up getting shipped to my door for $253.00.

I didn't want to go the aftermarket route as I like to keep things original and not have to splice wires. New valve works like a dream and both tanks read accurately on the gauge. My symptoms were exactly as you describe yours. Make sure you blow air back through the lines before putting a new valve in, if there is crud in there it will mess up the new one.

Honestly I should have never fixed my front tank. I have a 38 gal rear and got almost 40 gal in it. I have driven almost 200 miles and I am just barely under the full mark still. You could always just bypass the valve and run one tank. I personally like the idea of two tanks for some reason.

 

Yah I blew everything out, That is a good idea. too bad I have an amazon card bummer. Maybe my wife. did you get the one with different colored on the nipples from amazon or the all grey one?I have bought 2 aftermarket units in the past for my offroad toy and they both broke fast.

 

I think the OEM used piece is your best bet. I was fortunate enough to get one here from a member who is a friend, but you may find something by posting in the parts wanted thread. I'd rather have used OEM than a new aftermarket one, personally.