only other clue i can think of is that battery light was flickering when it finally started and ran. but then it turned off.

 

"Mechanics look to the component. Electricians look at the wiring."

Please keep going, my guess is that I have a similar problem since my Bronco only runs with the SPOUT jumper out. I thought, but haven't revisited the research that removing the jumper eliminates an unwanted short/ground in the system.

 

i was thinking there was another sensor being the problem but after doing some (more) research seems like there isn't a crankshaft position sensor in the 1990, only started after 1996? according to this https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...9-misfire.html

think if you remove the spout jumper you just take your computer out of the loop for ignition advance. mine now runs with spout in or out, but only erratically keeps going... i hesitate to think your fix to the lack of spark could be your power or ground to the EEC relay?

 

I'm going to bite the bullet and replace my ignition switch and ignition actuator arm. Like i posted earlier The way I have been starting the truk is to the manually move where the rod was with a screwdriver. Well i stuck the screwdriver in there today and without moving anything must have made contact with something, cause the fuel pump primed for a 2 seconds and then turned off. Back to thinking i might have fried something with my screwdriver fix...

 

Do you have an air bag?

 

When the truck dies, does it sputter out or just plain shut off?

Also, don't dismiss the TFI due to a bench test. They're notoriously difficult to test. I've had more than 1 test good but be bad. I used to carry 2 spares at all times, lol. Have pulled codes after it dies?

 

I would like to know the fuel pressure readings with pin #6 of the self-test connector grounded and the key on. Then the pressure at idle and then again when the throttle is punched to WOT just for a second or two. Also the readings when it dies with pin #6 grounded and not grounded.

 

deathranger, when truck dies, just dies - i can hear the starter not quite disengaging. just fades right out. I have another TFI module, (grey), i could swap it out again to the original distrib, since thats back in there right now.

subford, have to go downtown today , will pick up fuel pressure gauge and timing light if they don't have only a ****ty one.

 

Any auto part store should be able to rent you a fuel pressure gauge and you should get all your money back when you return it.
Just make sure it comes with the Ford adapter.

 

had to deal with work emergencies and got pulled out of the shop but i'm back in today. Subford I haven't run the fuel pressure test yet but on a whim i tested my ignition switch, because I've wondered if my ghetto way of starting the truck fried something in the switch.

using this diagram


i tested the switch - the "ignition circuit" test, i get a closed circuit in every key position. rather, i got continuity on my ohmmeter in every key position (i move the lever by hand because my actuator rod is broken and i have no fixed it yet). I'm hoping that whats going on is that since something is grounding out all in there my trucks not getting the correct signals to keep running.

is there a way to quickly bypass the ignition switch to turn the truck on to check this before I order another switch?

 

Jumping the 37 Y wire to the 16 R/LG should keep it running.

 

did not keep running, did the same thing.

i did notice that when i pull the negative cable off the battery and then put it back on, no matter if the ignition switch is actually connected or not, i hear the pumps prime for 2 sec. i don't hear the relays. when I move the ignition switch to the run position, i hear both relays click on. this says to me i am unwittingly completing some type of circuit to the pumps when i hook the battery back up? some type of ground in the fuel circuit?

if i press on the ignition switch with a pen, or a screwdriver, or wiggle it around , around the "run" position, the relays click on and off randomly so I'm ordering another one of those and I'm going to fix the steering column issue. But i'm not sure that will fix my starting problem i feel like I've potentially fried something farther up.

the fuel pump relay has tested normal. I know the fuel pump relay talks to the pumps. f the relay is not going on but the pumps are still priming, what else talks to the pumps?

 

I did find a corroded 20guage fusible link coming of starter solenoid which i replaced with in-line 20amp fuse ... didn't change anything. was a whim anyway cause i have no idea where that was going

 

Nothing at all.

 

well guys i think we figured it out.

went back and puled the power to the pump and then tried hooking up the battery again - noise still went on. got frustrated and called in helpers to figure it out. turned out it was something under the dash. call me an idiot cause i sure did feel like one.

recalled that I hadn't jumpered the ignition together after i found that other messed up fusible link, so i went back and jumpered it together again and she started right up. she wouldn't turn off, but she stayed running. had a bit of a hesitation when i gave her some gas but i am chalking that down with some certainty to the fact that i timed her at 6 * btdc rather than 10 and still don't have a timing light so i *know* she's off.

i have the new switch on order for tomorrow. I'm going to tear apart the steering column for the rest of the day and install the new actuator rod and have it ready for the new ignition switch. and i'm assuming that will solve the problems.

so there we have it, two super corroded fusible links, one in the EEC relay and one coming off of the starter solenoid. And a screwed up ignition switch. Let this be a lesson to anyone... if your actuator rod breaks, don't mess with it... just replace it!

im assuming the new switch , correctly installed, will solve everything anything i need to worry about?