I have a feedback carb now with the electric choke and am going back to an older style non feedback-carb with the hot air choke, can i just swap out the old electric choke on to the new hot air choke? i will be upgrading the ignition to a hei distributor as well

 

If you have the hot-air choke hooked up you don't need the electric heater. The hot-air choke is much better, when working properly, so just go with it.

But, all of the carbs I've seen will take an electric heater in the choke housing, so you can swap that in. However, check to see what voltage it says on it as many of them are 7v, not 12v, and that requires a hookup to the Stator field of the alternator.

 

how do i hook up the hot-air choke mine originally didn't have it? i do have the wire for the electric allready

 

Hot-air takes a fitting on the exhaust manifold and a tube to/from it for filtered air in and hot air out. By now almost all of them have rotted off, so it is very rare to find them operable. So, if you don't have the stuff then go electric.

Some carbs have the electric choke heater riveted in so the setting isn't easily changed, but you can drill the rivets out if that is the case.

 

Dorman/HELP make replacement choke stove kits.
If worst comes to worst you can just coil the included aluminum tube around one of the manifold tubes to get hot air.

Cut a slot in the breakaway head of the screw so you can get it out.
If you drill the head off you end up with a steel stub in a pot metal casting.
This is a pita to remove without destroying the choke body.
Take the old screw down to the hardware and get three phillips to replace them.

 

INFO and photos here.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post11763292

If you want to go electric only. Tomco 9104 Carburetor Choke Thermostat Ford
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tomco-9104-Carburetor-Choke-Thermostat-Ford-1970-79-D0DZ-9848A-D4PZ-9848J-/301806871561?hash=item4645176409
Here is a good thread to read for the inline 6, be sure and read the whole thread.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/13...arter-yfa.html

Jim

 

thanks thats great also i was wondering what this went to

 

I believe that's the source of filtered air for the hot-air choke.

 

You are correct, Sir!

 

If I use the electric chokke from my feedback carb can I just cap this off?

 

Yes. It will suck un-filtered air past the filter, so it needs to be capped.

 

Just to add I read up and found that the electric choke I have is more of an assit and not a full electric choke so either I buy a full electric choke or redo the rusted hot air the assit wont work under 60 degree

 

I think you've been reading Rick/Fonzie's posts. And, it is true that's what they were designed for. But, I've used them in full-on stand alone choke mode and they work about as well as any electric choke does. By that I mean ok, but not perfect.

I'd say try the electric choke you have. It'll be easy to do and you can always change later.

 

I don't know if its correct or not but mine on my '82 which I broke trying to get the tube out of the exhaust manifold to replace valve cover gaskets, it just had a tube from the choke to the manifold and no other tube or hole for a tube in the manifold to go up to the carb for fresh air. I just capped mine off and it works great as electric only except when its very cold. takes so long to come off high idle which has me been waiting for another cold morning to check the pull of the choke pull off.

 

That is what I initially did as well as capping the threaded port on the choke housing where the hot air tube had been connected. Then I learned that carburetors which originally were designed for the hot air assist or just for hot air have a small vacuum port inside the choke housing. This vacuum is what causes the hot air to be pulled/drawn through the choke housing. The carburetor is calibrated for this small vacuum leak. By just closing off the two ports, in theory, the carburetor will run a little rich. I connected a vacuum hose to the upper port on the carburetor and ran it to the port on the choke housing. The metal tube which originally entered the choke housing was cut and the vacuum hose slid over the tube. Now, my choke was converted to manual, so the replacement air temperature does not matter, but the air drawn into yours would be cool compared to originally designed and may affect the time it takes for the heating element to uncoil the choke spring.