I don't know how big you are, I'm a small gutted fella. I just sit on the rad support, feet on the exhaust manifolds, after all bolts are removed, pop the intake up with a tool of choice, grab the carb, elbows on my knees, lift and set it on a towel of the fender. Reverse reinstall.

 

Good recipe for a back injury for us older guys. I did the same thing when I was in my 20s, wouldn't try it now 40 years later. I even dead lifted a 460 block once from the bench into the back of a pickup.....once. I wonder why my knees are shot now???

 

Ah yes, I remember those days well. As, I was always putting my 61 390
block into moms car or the old mans car taking it to the shop.

Not as heavy as a 460 though.

And we all pay for it later in yrs. for sure.

Best to always get a helper when doing any type of heavy lifting when possible. If not then you may end up like so many of us who have gone through many surgery's and still have chronic back pain and having to take the happy pill each morning just to get you moving each day.
Orich

 

Being that's the case how much extra work is it to just take the water pump off? Not really worth it and easier to just cut it off the water pump side enough to get that tiny hose back on?

 

As a side note if you use an aluminum intake coat the bolt shanks with anti seize, so the bolt doesn't adhere to the aluminum. Once they are seized it can be almost impossible to remove the bolts.

 

Using any anti seize compound this only advised when replacing the bolts with stainless steel.
Note when switching to a aluminum intake manifold

The OEM bolts per the install instructions says to coat the under side of the bolt heads so that oil will not weep through the bolt-head shoulder.

Orich

 

Not much.. four bolts and two gaskets.

 

I love my engine lift plate. Best $10 I ever spent for a convenience.
Also with putting on the RTV: bias the dots slightly outward. You don't want little bits of RTV choking up the screen in the oil pickup tube. Had a friend who called me over about low oil pressure in his rebuilt 352. Dropped the pan to check the oil pump and the screen was about totally blocked. Granted, he got crazy with the RTV and did a big fat bead on both china walls. Lesson learned.

 

Well, if you need to take it out and clean the gasket surfaces, which I would, then the 4 bolts on the fan, lower hose maybe shroud. At least 45 minutes extra work at my pace compared to a couple minutes with a hacksaw and file. And the plus side is if you ever need to replace the hose out on the road it's easy.

 

Speaking of aluminum intakes, the op might want to consider one at this point. Unless he wants to remain all original.

 

Ah the bypass hose,
Yrs ago when I had a 292 Y block I added extra hose clamps to support the center of that bypass hose to aid in keeping it from swilling/bulge up in the middle like they all do after a number of yrs.

I still do these to this day with all & every FE block Three hose clamps covers it find never had one blow out like on the old Y blocks as we all lerned.

Orich

 

^^^^^

HIO.. That's a piece of art right there.

Thanks from us all.

Bill

 

2X. It's been a long time since I last read your sticky Hio. If these directions aren't in there I think you ought to add them in. Way Cool.

 

10-4.....Bookmarked for inclusion in the Tech Thread Compilation (TTC).

.. btw, I've been testing the TTC and found quite a few broken links. I'll fix 'em soon.

 

It sounds like they're better or at least more desirable if for no other reason than being a third the weight, but are they worth the money? Is there anything I will notice by switching? I'm not concerned about staying original but I'm in a bang for the buck situation so I'm curious to learn more about the benefits