There are two types of screw-in studs.
The Chevy studs have a tapered shank just under the hex that locates the pushrod guide plates, then there are the studs where it is 7/16 thread all the way to the hex.

Can you look at the broken stud to be sure it didn't have the tapered shank.
Maybe post a picture?

The bottom should look like this:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...ARP%20Stud.JPG

 

I have been giving backwards info too, sorry. Mine are 3/8, his he was selling me are 7/16.

 

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/scc-scp3092-1
Would these work and keep me from having to change to 7/16 studs. I do not think I am going to be able to safely remove 11 more as I broke the first one I tried.
Is a torch required?

 

I don't know if the BBF rockers have the same distance from the pivot point to the center of the valve stem tip as the 300 head?

Would you show a picture of the bottom of the stud under the hex?

 

 

They may have been Loctited in with a "permanent" type of stud mount product. In that case heating with a torch will work. It is also possible the boss was cracked before you even started to remove the stud. I would take them out.

And use a 6-point socket and a long breaker bar so that you can place the handle on the plane of the top of the boss as you loosen, to avoid any bending moment on the boss.

Consider a stud girdle too, especially if you plan to rev it.



I just got another idea too: put a lock nut on the bottom side of the hex to bring up the height of the hex even with the others. Gook everything up with sealer as those holes go into coolant passages.

 

I am looking for a stud girdle.
Where did you find one or did you have to make your own?

Thanks

 

The one pictured I made myself for an article in the 12 PORT NEWS. I have machine shop capabilities.
But Ridegway makes one for the Ford 300 - or at least they did. Try them.

Ridgeway Racing Associates
PO Box 281
Stafford Springs CT 06076

PAW carries the ridgeway girdles. 1-818 678 3000

Please let me know if they are no longer making them and I will stop referring to them. Then the other entrepreneurs in the audience will maybe get on board.

 

I looked up the company and it stated that it has been dissolved.

 

Thanks. Then maybe others will take it on. One thing I learned is that there is a significant head-to-head variance in the placement of the studs, so to get one to fit your head perfectly you should measure the stud spacing, and make one to match.

 

Is that a piece of angle iron or aluminum? One piece or two as it appears to have a line down the center and what are the tabs along the edges?
My thoughts on making one to fit custom would be to use aa strip of metal like yours pictured. Secure some molding clay to one side and then set it on top of the studs. Mark the centers of the impressions then drill them out.
What am I missing as I know it can't be that easy.

 

Does this help?

 

Tremendously. Thank you.

 

GREEN layout dye??!! No wonder you win races, Flyer!

I can't see where anyone says which Chevy (or other) roller rockers go with the 3/8" studs.

Also, would the use of those heavier studs eliminate the need for making a stud girdle on a mildly-hopped-up truck/van motor that will get worked, but only very occasionally revved hard? I'm talking about the kind of build that you 'd spend whatever time and money is called for to make a very long-lived engine for a shop truck that has to be utterly reliable every day for years and years. No-shows and phone calls don't impress customers who are expecting you.

What happened to the 240/300 build article you wrote some years back and which was a sticky on FordSix, Flyer? Have you ever revised it?

In my humble opinion, this engine in either displacement is often THE best motor for a professional's work truck or mobile shop truck (in my case, a Ford/Grumman step-van for mobile welding), yet a fair amount of the advice we see from various sources is either about building for street performance and racing or else doing a cheap build just to keep an old truck or van running for another several years. A mobile blue-collar professional doesn't want to spend money unnecessarily, but he does want to have everything going for him in the interest of long-term dependability. I have had good service with the 240 and the 300 I built (both since sold), but don't want to miss any new tricks with the next couple of 300s I will rebuild, one for a camper van and one for this step-van. Roller rockers and stud girdles weren't part of those earlier builds, so I'm all ears here.

 

A stud girdle is not necessary for a daily driver. I suggested it to help support his wounded head boss.