460 EFI stock intake manifold source??
#16
Yes. All the EFI fuel plumbing is removed, running an aftermarket pump on the rail. Lots of wiring is gone. The truck was originally a 5.8L EFI.
#17
There was a thread on here about porting the EFI heads but you would be FAR better of just getting carb heads
#18
#19
There is a guy who makes a custom adapter for the 460 to go to a carb from efi. The plate bolts in place of the intake. Just pick an intake and can mount a carb. I found the sellers information on this forum just can re-find it. Seems like the way to go. Try google'ing adapter plate, the price was reasonable.
#20
Price Motorsports. Ive used two of them to put carbs on EFI 460's. Both engines run as well (performance wise) as they did EFI. Obviously cold weather starts, altitude changes arent as mindless as with EFI. But these went in 79 Broncos, and was way easier than adapting EFI. The EFI intake must do a pretty good job of delivering air/fuel using a carb. Like Brad said, you likely have alot more performance potential with carbed heads than the low compression EFI ones. I was just after torquey streetability. Which i got.
#22
#23
This is all great info. I drove two hours to buy the 1993 EFI head that was advertised on craigslist....when I got there, he was pulling the intake off an '84. I told him I needed an EFI intake or carb heads - another carb intake would do me no good. He agreed to sell me the 1984 carb heads for $60. I seem to have unwittingly gone in the direction Brad suggested. Not sure if I should keep this thread going or start a new one, but I'm fixing to rebuild some heads in the near future. Two questions:
1) What is my new compression ratio going to be if I remove my 1990 heads and put 1984 heads on there.
2) What other components do I need to swap? (Exhaust manifold was included with heads, so I have those....)
1) What is my new compression ratio going to be if I remove my 1990 heads and put 1984 heads on there.
2) What other components do I need to swap? (Exhaust manifold was included with heads, so I have those....)
#24
When I cc D3VE heads *and carb pistons are .033 in the hole* I come up with something under 8:1
NOT impressive in my book, but I suppose it allows for crap octane in iron heads...
Be careful of valve clearances especially if you decide to switch cams.
Valve pockets are slightly different between pistons due to rocker location.
NOT impressive in my book, but I suppose it allows for crap octane in iron heads...
Be careful of valve clearances especially if you decide to switch cams.
Valve pockets are slightly different between pistons due to rocker location.
#25
ArdWrkin: I'm not sure what you said applies to my setup - perhaps you could clarify for me. assuming I don't change anything besides the heads:
are you saying my compression will be approximately 8:1? I will not be changing the cam, and plan to keep the EFI pistons as well. Will there be interference between the '84 valves and my '90 pistons?
are you saying my compression will be approximately 8:1? I will not be changing the cam, and plan to keep the EFI pistons as well. Will there be interference between the '84 valves and my '90 pistons?
#26
#27
"Something LESS than" 8:1...
While I think you are safe with a stock lift cam it couldn't hurt to check with clay or a piece of solder.
Personally I would have been pretty upset if I drove 90 min. for someone's bs.
Would rather keep the E7 heads and find the correct lower intake.
While I think you are safe with a stock lift cam it couldn't hurt to check with clay or a piece of solder.
Personally I would have been pretty upset if I drove 90 min. for someone's bs.
Would rather keep the E7 heads and find the correct lower intake.
I think I can imagine how to check clearance with clay, but have never done it. Does this sound right? -
Bolt heads (with gasket) to block, rotate crank through a full engine revolution, pull head, see if the clay got squished.
#28
Put a piece of soft solder or a small band of clay across the valve pockets and rotate.
Check to see how thin the material becomes.
Solder doesn't stick and make it hard to read. You can just use a caliper.
If you use clay, make sure there is much less than would lock the engine at TDC.
Don't go under about .045", depending on how high you intend to rev it.
Check to see how thin the material becomes.
Solder doesn't stick and make it hard to read. You can just use a caliper.
If you use clay, make sure there is much less than would lock the engine at TDC.
Don't go under about .045", depending on how high you intend to rev it.
#29
The early 'C8' heads were high compression as were CJ & SCJ heads.
The D1 heads were lower compression and a horrible open chamber design that promoted detonation.
D3's were much better with low octane and used until the end of the 1987 model year, and the advent of fuel injection/catalysts in ^8500 gvw trucks.
Early '70's 460's had a slightly lower deck height so compression was slightly higher with the same D3 heads.
You might have found 8.25-8.5:1 in some of those years.
The D1 heads were lower compression and a horrible open chamber design that promoted detonation.
D3's were much better with low octane and used until the end of the 1987 model year, and the advent of fuel injection/catalysts in ^8500 gvw trucks.
Early '70's 460's had a slightly lower deck height so compression was slightly higher with the same D3 heads.
You might have found 8.25-8.5:1 in some of those years.
#30
Join Date: Jul 2010
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Thiers lots of info floating around, for efi if I rememeber right, early heads small piston relief, big cylinder head chamber, late efi small cylinder head chamber and big piston relief. Efi have a much more efficient chamber in head and breathe better than carb heads until ported. Its early piston and late heads make something like 9.0 - 9.5 compression, I belief carb heads will do that same thing. Ether way your truck will run fine. If I had a choice myself I love efi, but if I was gonna run carb I would just do a carb top end, it would be cheaper in the end, and a hell lot more aftermarket support.