No problem Buddy. I/We are here 'till it's fixed.
Just because it's new doesn't necessarily mean it can't be the problem. Since you said " At times after removing the screwdriver the engine was still turning" I think the solenoid is defective. And I think that is where your short to ground is. If you have a multi meter set it to 200 OHMS in the resistance range. Touch the black wire to a known good ground. Then touch the red wire to all 4 terminals on the solenoid one at a time. If the multi meter never registers any resistance then the terminals are open and no internal short. If it registers some resistance on one or more terminals then there is an internal short.

 

X2, Just because it's new doesn't mean it's good.
You stated new elect. ign. New coil?

 

Well the Electronic ignition is old along with the module, the coil is new, the starter solenoid is new, the alternator is new, the starter is new & the external voltage reg. is new. I will test the starter solenoid to make sure it's not a defective one. Thanks...

 

The coil is receiving power @ .43 on the multi meter, I am not sure if that is good or bad. Like I have said before that this electronic ignition & module is throwing me a curve ball. The wiring is totally different from the original schematics. there are 2 wires coming from the module that are not even connected to anything. I've checked online for the wiring diagram for this electronic ignition module & can not find anything that goes to my 72 Ford F100 or any years close to it.

 

When I used the multi meter to the + side of the solenoid it read 12.3. The connector just to the left of the cable coming from the starter reads .5. So does that mean that the solenoid is defective?

 

BP, is your electronic ignition Ford/Motorcraft? If it is, then go to Fordification.net for a 76 wiring diagram, and print it out. Print the 70 diagram that Orich provided you earlier. Get out your colored pencils, and start identifying the original wiring 1 wire at a time. Make a note where there are discrepancies. Now take the 76 diagram and start from the distributor and work back to the module, and there to the ignition switch, coloring 1 wire at a time, and noting any discrepancies which you can compare when done. Remember that you have a mutt and will have to combine two different systems. As a retired USAF electrician and technical training instructor, this was how I taught my troops how to troubleshoot electrical circuits. Remember to write down everything and document everything.

 

Napa voltage regulators are junk. The only ones you can depend on are the OEM Motorcraft or Autolite. Better yet, get rid of the whole thing and go with one of these.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-3G-IR-IF-ALTERNATOR-7748-/321503314824?hash=item4adb174388&vxp=mtr

 

Thanks, after looking online yesterday on 3G alternators it seems to be my best bet & alot cleaner looking under the hood, eliminating all the wire clutter.

 

Thanks for the advice. Color coding the wires would help me & trying to figure out which wires are there now. But if wires have been changed from the previous owner I may have to cut through the wire harness to access the wires that are not correct. If I have any other options I would need some ideas on how to go about that. Right now I am not sure if the module is getting power. I am going to test all wires going to & from the module to see if power is flowing through it. The only thing is that I do not have the wiring diagram for this electronic ignition. my elctronic ignition is a Street Fire I believe I posted the model # on a previous post

 

Go to MSD's website and pull up their wiring diagram and the troubleshooting guide and work through it. Also call their customer service line.

 

Thanks to all my FTE family for your help. I have decided to change my alternator to a 3G one to get rid og the voltage reg. wiring clutter & fix the wiring problem I am Having with my Street Fire electronic ignition. I found the website for my electronic ignition (Street Fire Ignition products by MSD Ignition). I found out that there a couple of wiring problems with the positive wires leading to the ignition switch.

 

Does anyone know where the small red wire goes to the ignition (which slot) for the MSD Street Fire electronic ignition kit? There is also a 12V wire that I am not sure of where that one goes to? I also have a Red wire with a green stripe that has a connector that comes from the engine firewall. The connector has two more wires coming from it, a white wire leading to the oil pressure switch & another red wire with a white line leading to the coolant temp. switch? The red & green wire is not connected to anything now. It was connected to the small red wire coming from the electronic ignition which did not belong there as I stated above. I will post pics in my album.