6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

sudden RPM fluctuations in an '03

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  #16  
Old 08-19-2015, 10:26 PM
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very knowledgeable and generous help here. Much appreciated. My problem is clear now. My challenge is time and the lack of tools at the moment, so I'm going to submit to my trusted mechanic for a new ICP and pigtail while he's in there. (just getting the pigtail to wiggle was an exercise in painful hand contortions so i'm imagining that swapping the things will take more than I have right now.)
o4badford, sounds like you new to start up a pigtail overhaul operation. I'll be your first customer.
Hoping this keeps me running for a while now.
Thanks again!
 
  #17  
Old 08-19-2015, 10:46 PM
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Hey if we were a little closer you bet I would help ya, the early built ICP thing is a beach just because it's under the frigin Turbo , the actual replacement is not so bad just have to move a few thing out the way, skin it. Laying across the side down in the ( hole ) gets a little tiring , Good luck and keep us posted on the Out come
 
  #18  
Old 01-19-2016, 11:11 AM
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Bringing back an old thread as my problem has reared its ugly head again. TRuck will run beautifully for months, then goes to he11 intermittently, and sometimes fixes itself.

SUMMARY:
- abrupt RPM fluctuations while under load (accelerating), sometimes stalls suddenly
- had some great advice here to switch to Synthetic (Done), replace ICP (Done), check pigtail (Done)
- Ive brought it to my mechanic several times for this problem and now he's stumped too (he changed the ICP a few months back, certified the pigtail to be like new, tested FICM volts (normal IN and OUT), tested fuel pressure (norm), re-tested ICP volts (desired and actual were same), tried disconnecting ICP again (made no difference), swapped PCM (no change)
- he suggested next step to try swapping FICM, but I said to hold off until I do some research here. Hoping to not throw expensive darts.
- we discussed that maybe it was a tank of bad fuel as this episode roughly coincided with a fill up. I'm doubtful though.
- here's the codes that he saw. I'll post a couple quick videos after this.

 
  #19  
Old 01-19-2016, 11:32 AM
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336 is cam shaft sensor
341 is crank shaft sensor
Both of them should be a 1 for sync... and they will kill a motor like turning the key off. This is something you can see using your scan gauge, just need to program the X-Gauge for it. Should go from a 0-1 when cranking.

403 & 405 are EGR related, makes the turbo possible slow to come up. Make sure its plugged in and the wires are not shorted at the plug... not your issue.

672 & 678 are Glow plug fault on #2 & #8, change the harness and the plugs on the drivers side. This would be a starting issue when cold, plug the truck in to help it... not your issue.

P1000 is an incomplete self test, don't sweat that one, with run time will clear itself.

P2614/2617 are cam/crank codes again. You may have bad sensors or the harness for those is chaffed... wiggle the wires for both and see what you get. Watch the scan gauge again for this. One code for cam, one for crank, both should go to 1 when cranking.

p0148
read this thread, they are talking about the same code... maybe related to the cam/crank sensors.

Hope this helps

Bad fuel, normally a filter change and an additive to help... not that, it would run crappy all the time.

FICM voltages should be above 45v for output and input above 10.5v, best input is 12v since it's a step up transformer. What are FICM voltage at when cranking and once fully warm?

Whats fuel pressure at?
 
  #20  
Old 01-19-2016, 11:41 AM
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This is warming it up this morning attempting to hold RPM at 1500. And of course this is the smoothest it's run in a few days.

 
  #21  
Old 01-19-2016, 11:46 AM
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Quick reply Watson thanks! I'll see if I can get answers to your questions.
 
  #22  
Old 01-19-2016, 11:46 AM
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what are you running for fuel... #1 diesel and/or some additive for anti-gel?

Program the gauge for cam and crank sync. Whats the FICM voltage when it's doing that?
 
  #23  
Old 01-19-2016, 12:06 PM
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FICM voltage was 48 out and b+ in. (??)
Fuel pressure was 55 to 60 PSI
 
  #24  
Old 01-19-2016, 12:10 PM
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OK I'll go to work on the scan gauge for cam and crank. Is FICM voltage programmable in that thing?
Not sure what kind of diesel I'm buying. I'm using Kleen flow additive, though there was none in it when it was at the mechanic.
 
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Old 01-19-2016, 12:27 PM
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  #26  
Old 01-19-2016, 02:00 PM
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FICM volts (FMP on ScanGuage) stays steady throughout cranking and start.
I programmed cam and crank codes, both 3000 and 3001. (My SGII sheet has 2 nearly identical codes for camshaft and crankshaft in sync) Neither budged from zero at any point. Ie 0=not in sync

 
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Old 01-19-2016, 02:10 PM
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Also, mechanic had deleted EGR a couple years ago when we did studs and oil cooler. A few months ago though to fix this recent intermittent problem, he unplugged the EGR wires. This ok, as Watson says to make sure wires are plugged in???

 
  #28  
Old 01-19-2016, 02:10 PM
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Ie 0=not in sync.... correct. It should go from a 0 with KOEO to a 1 as soon as you crank it... if they function correctly. Watching the video, you have a solid ZERO. May have the wrong x-gauge information programmed for that PID... it would have not started at a 0. There is also one for FICM sync.

You need cam/crank/FICM sync to start.

What happens to the readings when its goes crazy?

ICP, FMP, ICPV are good, that SYC is suspect.

That's no good, unplugging the EGR makes the fan not work properly... it controls fan speed, not just EGR exhaust flow. Wonder if the plug has some shorted wire in it... I would check that carefully, looks like a chewed up mess!
 
  #29  
Old 01-19-2016, 02:16 PM
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Plug the EGR back in,no need to unplug it
 
  #30  
Old 01-19-2016, 03:36 PM
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Well, I cleaned up that EGR plug and reattached it and it started up smooth as silk! Revved up nice too.
Then I fiddled with scan gauge as I'd found a different digit for FICM logic power and when starting it up again, it let out a burp, and it's back to usual. Maybe worse.
This reminds me of a few months ago when truck had been running perfectly and upon starting, it let out the same burp (just like an abrupt RPM spike, with some blue smoke) and then ran like crap until mechanic unplugged EGR.

I also double checked the 'camshaft and crankshaft in sync' code (SYC) and it's correct, but as you say, stuck at zero.

Programmed and double checked FICM logic power (FLP) and it remains blank. (With 2 different variations of SGII code)

Anyone have better FLP and SYC codes for my early '03?
Thanks again for the advice so far

This just at idle now.
 


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