Rust in heads

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 07-27-2015, 01:30 PM
reebadoo's Avatar
reebadoo
reebadoo is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 455
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Rust in heads

Would anyone be concerned with rust on the pushrods springs and rocker arms on a ford 400?
 
  #2  
Old 07-27-2015, 08:19 PM
SDDL-UP's Avatar
SDDL-UP
SDDL-UP is offline
Laughing Gas
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: North Idaho
Posts: 918
Received 29 Likes on 23 Posts
Yes. There should be no rust on any of those components. If they are rusty it is very likely the engine has suffered a head gasket failure an/or sever neglect. Also very likely there is rust in the cylinders.
 
  #3  
Old 07-27-2015, 08:57 PM
reebadoo's Avatar
reebadoo
reebadoo is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 455
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
If I could figure out how to put pictures up on the mobile version I would.
 
  #4  
Old 07-27-2015, 09:01 PM
reebadoo's Avatar
reebadoo
reebadoo is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 455
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
  #5  
Old 07-27-2015, 10:41 PM
SDDL-UP's Avatar
SDDL-UP
SDDL-UP is offline
Laughing Gas
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: North Idaho
Posts: 918
Received 29 Likes on 23 Posts
While it doesn't look good, I've seen worse.

If you are going to rebuild it - don't worry about it. If you want to run it, make sure to replace the intake manifold shield as they are neede with EGR manifolds. Oil changes!!! Use an oil known for cleaning ability, like Penzoil Platinum, or research something else, then make sure you can run it up to temperature normally. I would run it a lot to get 1000 miles on it, then change the oil. Then maybe another 1000 and change the filter, cut it open and have a look. I would probably do three "short interval" oil changes no matter what that second filter looks like.

This looks like an engine that maybe didn't see much use or didn't get up to temperature often. Short trips are considered "severe duty" for a reason.

Good luck!
 
  #6  
Old 07-28-2015, 09:07 AM
reebadoo's Avatar
reebadoo
reebadoo is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 455
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
As far as I know the truck has been parked for at least 2 years, I will run it when I get the carb and gas tank and radiator in, I already changed the oil once and ran it for like 30-40 seconds to try and cycle through the oil. Good advice, would you try and clean the parts while still attached to the truck or would you just run it with cleaner oil or rebuild it?
Edit, are you talking about the intake gasket?
Edit2- does that look like the headgaskets have been damaged?
 
  #7  
Old 07-30-2015, 08:13 PM
SDDL-UP's Avatar
SDDL-UP
SDDL-UP is offline
Laughing Gas
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: North Idaho
Posts: 918
Received 29 Likes on 23 Posts
reebadoo,

Sorry for the delay. If you wanted to, it looks like the pushrods are especially rusty, and since they are relatively inexpensive - you could replace those. I don't think I'd try yo do any cleaning otherwise. Since you put fresh oil in, you could drain a little and add a quart of ATF. That stuff really does a good job of cleaning things up, but it will take quite a bit of time no matter what. Run the engine up to temp for a while and let it do it's thing. As for me - I'm an incurable gearhead, so if I had any reason to rebuild/improve it - I would! Too bad it gets expensive!

Yes, I was referring to the intake gasket.

No, I don't think it has had a head gasket failure.

Since you've got it a fair bit apart, you might consider buying a new double roller timing chain and installing it straight up. These engines had the cam installed with the timing retarded apparently and that helped the "boat anchor" reputation. Installing "straight up" is supposed to liven them up quite a bit. No personal experience there.... Just what I hear!
 
  #8  
Old 07-30-2015, 09:41 PM
reebadoo's Avatar
reebadoo
reebadoo is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 455
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by SDDL-UP
reebadoo,

Sorry for the delay. If you wanted to, it looks like the pushrods are especially rusty, and since they are relatively inexpensive - you could replace those. I don't think I'd try yo do any cleaning otherwise. Since you put fresh oil in, you could drain a little and add a quart of ATF. That stuff really does a good job of cleaning things up, but it will take quite a bit of time no matter what. Run the engine up to temp for a while and let it do it's thing. As for me - I'm an incurable gearhead, so if I had any reason to rebuild/improve it - I would! Too bad it gets expensive!

Yes, I was referring to the intake gasket.

No, I don't think it has had a head gasket failure.

Since you've got it a fair bit apart, you might consider buying a new double roller timing chain and installing it straight up. These engines had the cam installed with the timing retarded apparently and that helped the "boat anchor" reputation. Installing "straight up" is supposed to liven them up quite a bit. No personal experience there.... Just what I hear!
Well the engine from my understanding is an amazing motor for the time and the emissions junk that was put on the truck, when I pull the engine out to get the transmission rebuilt I will see about changing the timing chain if it hasn't been done. And when I can save enough I will do a full rebuild and get the heads milled and checked. I haven't had the truck running because I took the carb off and am in the middle of rebuilding it, and the radiator is shot so I am going to get a new radiator for the truck!
From what I understand I can interchange parts from any of the 335 engine family some easier than others. What I'm looking at because I already have an intake and quadrajet carb, and the valve covers are not off the engine at the moment I took those pictures last April or may.
 
  #9  
Old 07-31-2015, 12:17 AM
SDDL-UP's Avatar
SDDL-UP
SDDL-UP is offline
Laughing Gas
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: North Idaho
Posts: 918
Received 29 Likes on 23 Posts
All engines from that era were dogs! That's the truth!

The 400 is easy to improve that's for sure. Use early heads (same as 351C 2V), or some minor porting on the later heads, and you've got a good base for a "performance" truck engine.

What's the truck?
 
  #10  
Old 07-31-2015, 09:31 AM
reebadoo's Avatar
reebadoo
reebadoo is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 455
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by SDDL-UP
All engines from that era were dogs! That's the truth!

The 400 is easy to improve that's for sure. Use early heads (same as 351C 2V), or some minor porting on the later heads, and you've got a good base for a "performance" truck engine.

What's the truck?
1977 f250 ranger xlt, with full time 4x4 and a c6, I got the truck for a steal of a price.
Edit- what pushrods would be good? Any ideas?
 
  #11  
Old 08-03-2015, 09:44 PM
reebadoo's Avatar
reebadoo
reebadoo is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 455
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Bump!
 
  #12  
Old 08-10-2015, 10:45 AM
351Cleveland C4's Avatar
351Cleveland C4
351Cleveland C4 is offline
Lead Driver
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: On the Edge of the Desert
Posts: 8,601
Likes: 0
Received 137 Likes on 121 Posts
Rust in heads

Pushrods are something that it doesn't hurt to get good quality ones. I'm running a set of COMP magnum pushrods and they are great.

If your not planning on a big cam or stiff springs, good quality "stock" pushrods will be fine. Such as these.
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/cca-7837-16

If you are gonna run a cam and high pressure springs, Or if your feeling spendy and want better
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/cca-7757-16
 
  #13  
Old 08-12-2015, 10:32 PM
reebadoo's Avatar
reebadoo
reebadoo is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 455
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by 351Cleveland C4
Pushrods are something that it doesn't hurt to get good quality ones. I'm running a set of COMP magnum pushrods and they are great.

If your not planning on a big cam or stiff springs, good quality "stock" pushrods will be fine. Such as these.
COMP Cams High Energy Pushrods 7837-16 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

If you are gonna run a cam and high pressure springs, Or if your feeling spendy and want better
COMP Cams Hi-Tech Pushrods 7757-16 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
Wow those look great! I wish I had more money! :/ is there a happy middle ground where it will hold up to a bigger cam and stiffer springs? But not a race cam?
 
  #14  
Old 08-12-2015, 11:47 PM
351Cleveland C4's Avatar
351Cleveland C4
351Cleveland C4 is offline
Lead Driver
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: On the Edge of the Desert
Posts: 8,601
Likes: 0
Received 137 Likes on 121 Posts
Rust in heads

The first set is basically the middle ground.

I'm running the big bad Rods in my engine.
 
  #15  
Old 08-13-2015, 07:02 AM
reebadoo's Avatar
reebadoo
reebadoo is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 455
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by 351Cleveland C4
The first set is basically the middle ground.

I'm running the big bad Rods in my engine.
How are they? Will the "middle ground" rods hold up to stiffer springs and a better cam?
 


Quick Reply: Rust in heads



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:28 PM.